20 Most Recent Husqvarna "Chain Saw - 16" Bar, 3 Hp - Page 7 Questions & Answers

50:1 Here is the spreadsheet with specs.http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/01ec47be5550bbce88256d5a005a3315?OpenDocument

You will probably need to replace it. Try Small Engine Warehouse for the part. Their website is http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/

You can download the owners manual in French at this helpful website:http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSO/HUSO2011_USen/HUSO2011_USen__1154210-49.pdf

50:1 according to the specs. Here is the helpful link.http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/01ec47be5550bbce88256d5a005a3315?OpenDocument

I have always found success at Small Engine Warehouse, and great prices. NO, I don't work for them, but these days, great customer service and good prices are hard to find in the same place. Here is their website. http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/ Good luck.

Sounds like the chain brake was set when you took the cover off. You need to disengage the chain brake (release it) so the round spindle will fit inside. Look for the two parts (one on cover, one on saw) that match up at the base of the chain brake. You won't be able to fit the whole cover on, but if you can line up where the metal triangular gear engages the chain brake, you can give it a snap to disengage it. What I have done in the past is to line up the two parts and push down on the top of the cover where they meet so as much of the gear is in the chain brake release as possible ( I put a knee on it ) and then give a snap to release it. Be careful though, because the cover part is plastic and you don't want to strip that part of the chain brake assembly. Good luck.

The 235 in my opinion was not a good saw, there were numerous issues with it, the mai bearing on the drive has a habbit of the bearing cage breaking away, this travels up the side of the pistion and nips the ring in on the transpher port side, they then refuse to start or rattle badlt if they do start, the only cure is to strip the whole saw down to check the condition of the piston,cylinder and bearing cage, let me know if you need help pulling it apart, i have done loads.

Husky has pretty good exploded view diagrams on their website. I would try there to see if you can figure out how it gets removed.Here is their helpful website:http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/good luck.

Sounds like the cover was taken off with the brake on. On some of the Huskies, the brake is engaged with a three-part metal piece that fits into a corresponding shaped part on the cover and is engaged with a firm click on or off. The piece looks a little like the old nuclear bomb shelter signs, like three pie wedges with the narrow parts meeting in the middle. Be careful not to strip the plastic part when trying to marry these two sections together or you will be buying a new cover. I lined up both parts, made sure it was in as far as possible, put a knee on it, and snapped the chain brake off. This opened the band, and it fit once again. Note: I did this correctly the second time it happened to me. The first time resulted in a brand new pretty cover for my used saw because I tried forcing it and stripped the plastic part it the metal piece fits into. Good luck.

Use a ratio of 50-1 with Husqvarna two stroke oil, with other two stroke oils they recommend a 25-1 mix as they do not know the quaility of other manufactureres two stroke oil, always try to use Husqvarna oil.

What Husqvrna say is 50-1 withe Husqvarna two stroke oil, or 40-1 with other brands of two stroke oil, this is due to not knowing the quaility of other oils.

Check out the oil tank filter, it is on the base of the oil take, it is a grey cover held with a single cross head screw, you ban get a screw driver between the fuel tank and the crankcase to remove it.

It will have an oil pump, it will be situated behind the clutch and drum, the drum will has a castleation in the back that drives a nylon gear, this gear then turns the pump shaft, the 345 has a filter in the bottom of the oil tank, you can see it on the bottom right hand side looking between the crankcase and the fuel tank, it is held in with a single cross head screw, remove this and check the filter for dirt.

This machine has a carb with splined adjuster screws, the toll to adjust them is part no. 530035560, it is readily available however i heard that the dealers in the US are very reluctant to sell it to end useres, so you may have to buy off the web.

It could be the brake has activated, the band is now smaller than the drum, as you tighten the nuts the band which is not properly over the drum is locking against the clutch, thus stalling the engine, you need to remove the cover and load the brake, there is a couple of ways to do this, you can remove the hand gaurd from the saw and use this to insert into the brake mechanism, then pull it firmly back until the brake clicks and the band locks back, or you can remove the clutch and drum, the brake will easily go back onto the saw, you can then load the brake on the saw in the normal way, to remove the clutch, there is two cut a ways in the clutch centre so as to insert a screw driver, you can then strike the head of the screw driver to jar the clutch off against the compression of the saw, it is a left hand thread.

Hi boisebravo..
This this solution to your problem...
I also include a fuel routing picture incase
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Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope...watching the plug for spark.
If you are getting a nice blue spark then skip A below and go to B.
A...If you do not get a nice blue spark then you may need to replace the electronic module.
Note: If you have to replace the module be sure to measure the position it is in, it is critical to starting.
B...Also take some fine grit sandpaper (not emery) and lightly sand the flywheel where the magnet is located to clean any rust or corrosion from the magnet area.
Then follow the procedure below:
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Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of chainsaws.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor or take a pictue for later reference.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle chainsaw with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the chainsaw is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Note:
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

Hi, set the screws from lightly seated to 1.25 turns in the low and 1 turn on the high. Also check for perished impulse hose and fuel hose. Regards Phil.

Are you sure this machine is mechanically sound, remove the muffler and take a look at the piston skirt through the open exhaust port, any sign of scuffing, or damage and it will need to come apart for further investigation.

You need to reduce the minimum on your carburetor. Usually a chain saw has three screws to adjust. One is when you press the accelerator on the high revs. Then adjust the vividness of the saw. Another screw on the carburetor when the throttle is released and that the chainsaw works well at low revs. The third screw is the minimum and you can stop the chain here.
Good luck and be careful!

First of all, make sure the saw is off. Also, before removing bolts, make sure the chain brake is not engaged (the chain should move freely).
Remove the guide bar side panel. Using a scwrench or wrench, unscrew the nuts and remove the plate to access the chain.

The side plate on most chainsaws will be held on by two nuts. Loosen the blade adjustment screw (a pin that is usually driven by a screw and pushes the blade out from the chainsaw to keep the chain tension tight).

The old chain is ready to be removed now that the sprocket plate is off of the saw. Pull the nose of the chainsaw's bar away from the chainsaw to release it from the tensioner.

Remove the old chainsaw chain.

The chain will easily remove from the guide bar with all that slack in it. Note the orientation of the cutting edges of the chain so you put the new one on the same way.

Pull the drive links out of the guide bar and slip the other end of the chain around the clutch drum.

Steps to Install a New Chainsaw Chain
Thread the new chain onto the saw.

Carefully thread your new or recently sharpened chainsaw chain around the chainsaw's clutch drum, making sure that the drive links engage in the sprocket.

Thread the rest of the drive links into the guide bar and around its nose, making sure all links are in the guide bar slot.
Align the guide bar.

With the chain properly threaded along the clutch drum and guide bar, put some tension into it by pulling on the nose of the guide bar away from the chainsaw.

While pulling the guide bar, make sure to seat it onto the saw's adjustment pin.

Replace the side plate.

The side plate is ready to go back on as long as the guide bar is properly positioned beneath.

Replace the plate and the nuts that hold it into position, but do not tighten the nuts down all the way yet. The guide bar must be allowed to move a little while the chain is tightened to the correct tension.
Tighten the chain to the correct tension. Use the tensioning screw to the side of the guide bar to adjust the tension on the chainsaw chain.

Finish tightening the side plate nuts.

The chainsaw chain replacement is now complete.


And here is a great overall reference guide to keeping a chainsaw sharp and running. Sharpening a chainsaw chain is a great way to extend the life and is less expensive and easier than replacing a chain. There are small grinding tools (like a dremel) that can be run off a small 12v battery or your vehicle battery that allow for quick 'tune-ups' on your chain if you are out cutting and need to sharpen your chain.
http://www.pcta.org/pdf/STUCHAP2_web.pdf