Husqvarna Lawn Tractor 48" Deck, 23 Hp, Model# Yth2348 - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

What is it you need to know? Your post is only you need to know asap under 48" Deck 23 Hp mowers. Please restate your question and I will try to respond.

Are you referring to the "tension rod" on the mower deck? I think the rod you are talking about is number 114 on the diagram. Take a look at this diagram.

Mine was doing the same thing. Just loosen the gas cap. If its on too tight the engine will stall because the air cant get into the fuel cell to replace the abscent fuel.

Engine oil level.battery connections.

Sounds like your PTO switch or clutch has gone bad. Unfortunately, it is usually the clutch.

There are usually one or two idler pulleys on the belt that runs from the engine to the transmission. Check those, more than likely one has gone bad. the should spin freely with the brake engaged, and the should not wobble.

Usually is done with an air wrench.If you dont have that, you will need to hold the flywheel (the part on top or side that has the screen on it), or drive shaft.

Sounds like your choke cable needs adjustment. Follow the choke cable to where it mounts on the carb. Move the choke lever at the same time watching where it mounts to the carb. there is usually a clamp holding the cable in place, you may need to loosen the clamp and slide the cable back to make the choke fully close

It sounds like a voltage regulator.The PTO/ mower deck is run off of the battery, the regulator should be putting out more voltage when the deck is running. It sounds like it isnt.The regulator should be mounted on the engine, probably has 2 or 3 wires coming out, yellow, red, etc.They usually run about 45.00

Make sure you have gas, oil, and a fully charged battery.

Sitting on seat, push the clutch/brake pedal down fully, make sure the mower PTO is in the "off position". Push throttle control to choke, or pull the choke handle, whichever set up you have, and then turn the key.

hydrostatic transmission there is only one throttle setting and that is WFO. if it is running slower than it used to, and the drive belt is snug, then you are looking at a failing transmission.

Hi, the light will cancel itself after a further 2 hours mowing time. Regards Phil.

Check the USERS Manual

" It will only run while I have starter fluid in it "---- This indicates problem with fuel pump and clogged fuel filter.------- The fuel filter is already replaced, so fuel pump has to be replaced.-------- The flow of fuel is low, due to this required fuel is not reaching the engine so it will not run, but when you spray starter fluid, the fluid runs the engine and it runs.----------- And for fuse blowing problem,--- You have a dead short in the circuit for that fuse. Check for a pinched wire, or a wire rubbed through a touching metal.Any time a fuse blows there is a direct short to ground. Fuses only work in a hot wire. Some where there is a wire hot wire with a bare spot touching the frame or another ground wire. The seat could have a wire pinched, the motor may have melted a wire or something simple like that. Move all the wire around and see if they may be pinched or touching another wire or it any are melted together.Try unplugging the pto, starting the mower and then engaging the blades. If it still blows a fuse the problem lies in the mowers wiring. If not the problem is the pto.-------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

if the drive belt continues to come off it could be that the drive belt spring tensioner has failed.

Not the float.
Where you mowing when you had the problem or were you just driving the mower? If you were mowing, then disengage blades and see if it returns to full driving power. If you were just driving, then with it sitting, engage the blades and see if problem recurs. The blades are the bigger load on the engine, your mower will drive around with a little 4HP engine, all the extra power is for the blades and if pulling anything.
Let me know what the test results were, so we can figure out if it is in the carburetor or not.

First thing is to check the new belt length against the old belt. Should be close, maybe old belt just a little longer. Then when you were trying to put the belt on did you set the brake like parking, that should take the tension off of it for you.

I hope this helps you out.

hi there wdycle 7

pauly46 here

please check out web site and download manual it has exploded digram and will show what you need see pages 19 and 20 these have location of sway bar and fittment

http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSO/HUSO2010_NAen/HUSO2010_NAen_YTH2348_532441716.pdf


cheers hope it helps


pauly46

yea i know i did the trick i bought 2554 huq i have a lever shift i cut the platic on the reverse tp make it longer and it go much faster. now for floor pedal need make a bracket higher on pedal should make go down further and faster too.

if you scroll through these lawn tractor questions, you will note a lot of failed hydrostatic transmissions in the husqvarna line. seems like that is the prime suspect in your problem, if the drive belt is good. i had one and the transmission failed after about 5 years, but I see many with fewer years of wear
with the same problem. a new transmission costs about half of what a new tractor costs. these are actually made by the AYP company which pays a licensing fee to husqvarna to use the name. AYP makes most of the mower lines you see in stores. my neighbor has a craftsman with a bad deck which seemed identical to the husqvarna, except color. However when i went to cannibalize his transmission it was completely different and would not bolt into mine, so i went out and bought a simplicity.