Top 20 Husqvarna Lawn Tractor 48" Deck, 23 Hp, Model# Yth2348 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

On most of the late model lawn tractors there is a 20 amp fuse underneath the dash, it should be a blade type fuse like you would find in cars. Replace that and you should be good to go...

can you see a spark at the plug if not chek safty swiyches there is a bad one

unfortunately, you are one of the lucky owners that has one of these things. You are going to have to remove the transaxle and break it down in order to replace the brake pad, "IF" you can find a replacement part! My suggestion is to double check the linkage and use you owners manual to see how you can or if you can adjust the linkage. Replacing the pad is not all that difficult but it is very time consuming. If you have to remove the transaxle to replace the pad, please be sure you have a breakdown list so you can disassemble and reassemble the transaxle correctly. You will need to find the exact model number on the transaxle and then look it up online and download a copy and print the breakdown section. Good luck.

The blades are very carefully made so that they slightly overlap. This is why on some machines when you turn one way there will be a strip as described. If you ground the ends shorter, they will not overlap, and this is your problem. You should only sharpen the lower cutting side [NOT THE END] of the blade. Make sure that they are evenly ground back, not more near the outside as this will result in a curved cut with low centres and slight ridges in the middle of the blade paths. Also important to accurately balance them. Place nail in vise and put blade so the exact centre of the hole is on the nail, splined blades can be difficult. Maybe necessary to get ring of tube to fit inside spline. Grind off low end until they hang level.

Most hook to right front frame, even with front wheel

I would start by taking the deck off completely

Had a similar problem and it was a fuel issue. But, it could be electrical as well. You would have to check fuel flow and for spark when it fails. One possibility is the fuel filter is clogged (when was the last time it was changed?) and after it sits for awhile enough fuel gets through the filter and between what's on the output side of the filter and what is seeping through it runs for some time then quits. It could also possibly be some crud in the float bowl of the carburetor that drifts around then clogs the float valve starving the engine of fuel then when it stops and the fuel fills the bowl again the crud drifts away from the valve to start the process over again. Do a search for Kawasaki and your engine model and manual and you'll find a free downloadable manual which might be helpful.

Hi, Thanks for your Question. My name is Kevin and I will try and provide a solution to your question. Your Husqvarna is equipped with a Briggs and Stratton engine. The Stator acts as an alternator to provide power to keep the battery charged after passing through a rectifier/voltage regulator which converts the A/C current generated by the stator into D/C current regulated to approximately 13.8 volts. The stator is located beneath the flywheel at the top of the engine. Keeping in mind that it is extremely rare for a stator to fail, it should be tested to verify it is malfunctioning. This can by done very easily with a voltage meter set to measure AC voltage at the plug prior to the regulator. Once verified that it is defective, the following procedure will provide access to the stator. Remove the top engine cover via loosening the four bolts, two in front and two near the rear of the engine. You will also need to remove the fuel pump from the cover and removing the dipstick support fastener. Once the cover is off, remove the bolt from the crankshaft located in the center of the flywheel. You will need to use something to hold the flywheel so it does not turn as you remove the bolt. A large screwdriver placed into the cast iron section of the flywheel will work fine. After the bolt is removed, you will need to use a flywheel puller to remove the it from the tapered crankshaft. A puller can be purchased at auto parts store such as Napa or an online site such as Amazon ( HERE is the LINK to order ) Briggs Stratton 19203 Flywheel Puller The stator may now be removed via three or four fasteners and the new one installed. It is very important to use a torque wrench to tighten the flywheel so as to not crack the flywheel nor damage the bolt or crankshaft. I hope this helps. If you have any clarification feel free to ask. You may wish to bring the machine to a qualified repair shop to properly test the stator and replace if needed. Labor should be no more than one or two hours. Kevin

I would put in the largest amp lawnmower type battery you can get

This mower uses a voltage regulator on top of the engine. The magneto and regulator are usually one assembly.

Firstly clear your question. if you want how to set air gap then Be sure the coil air gap is set at .010" Anything significantly more and you will have weak spark, giving you the impression of a rich running condition. http://www.melbournesmowercentre.com.au/ride-on-mowers

Husqvarna uses a blade style 20 amp fuse. They are usually clipped to the dash just below the ignition switch under the hood.

u have to take carb off get small needle noise pliers an put spring on govener firstthen on idle side of carb an put tighten carb down when u have it the spring on

There is no linement for the blades as the blades you buy now days has a great amount of lift just be sure you keep your blades sharp and watch your grass if the mowed grass has jagged edges then the blades are getting dull. But your blades won't stay in line anyway, as the grass will change them. Good luck, and let me know if you need anything else....

It could be a number of different things. The starter switch has 2 different positions for safety. One will kill the engine while backing. Have you tried engaging it with the switch in both positions? I would check that first. If it doesn't kill the engine while in the safety bypass mode for backing, it would probably be a bad or stuck limit switch on the reverse linkage.

You should have a two wire plug that comes up from underneath near the front where the machines engine crankshaft is. Normally the wires are one colored red the other black with the key in the run position engine (OFF) there should be battery voltage or close to it. Which can be measured with a voltmeter. With the PTO switch in the on position. If you have voltage you have a bad electric PTO if no voltage then you'll have to check voltage to and from the switch itself. Someone should be sitting in the seat to perform the test for on many machines the safety switches won't allow the PTO to be engaged unless someone is on the machine. A wiring diagram would help you trace the wiring to the switches and PTO much easier.

check all your pulley's including idler pulley's for smoothness and free turning,also check any spring tensioners for workmanship.try this first if this doesn't help let me know and we will go from there.

Hi, Thanks for posting your question and I will do my best to provide an accurate answer. The symptoms you describe lead me to believe that you have a defective head gasket on one or two of you cylinders. The head gaskets fail between the valve pushrod area through which oil passes to lubricate the valves and the cylinder bore. this allows oil to pass into the combustion chamber causing the oil to burn and cause the smoking. It is not uncommon and is a relatively inexpensive repair. The head gaskets cost around 20 dollars and the labor to remove the engine shrouds, carburetion, intake manifold, exhaust system to access the cylinder head should be three to four hours. It is very wise to replace both head gaskets since the labor to change the other is 1/2 hour or so vs. three or four again if the other fails a short time later. I hope this answers your question. Kevin