20 Most Recent Makita Die Grinder 28,000 Rpm, 6.6 Amp Questions & Answers

depends on condition and what comes with it. generally starts at $500 in good shape and up to 850 if excellent with many extras (chucks, rests, knurling attach, faceplates, etc) Also, check for accuracy...

Yes all the tool places say discontinued. Yes, bypass it, but make sure you don't overwork the grinder. https://www.google.com/search?q=2610904741 ..

Out of warranty ... time for a replacement machine.I would choose a different make. Assuming the batery is not the fault.

DIRTY CONTACTS POSSIBLY

Size for size and component value identical on replacement. Fit the correct part.

Considering how potentially dangerous grinding machines and wheels are and how much safety legislation exists about their maintenance, adjustment and use, a great deal of printed matter exists about these things and the wide range and selection of wheel material. You should have no bother finding useful information, fortunately bench grinders are extremely similar to each other... https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfimages/b6/b64b39fb-6d42-4fec-a274-76bbd950e6d8.pdf

Mmmm... that's a little more complicated. If you have a continuity / resistance meter, we can noodle it out, though. First, are the two white wires the ONLY wires coming from the motor? I suspect they are - that's not in conformance with any accepted color code, but it'll work. For the rest of this, I'll assume that the two white wires are the only ones from the motor. You'll need to meter the switch itself, with no wires connected to it. In the OFF position, you shouldn't find continuity between any of the four switch contacts. In the ON position, you should find continuity between two pairs of contacts. The black wire from the power cord should go to ONE of the two switch contacts in a pair that have continuity with the switch turned ON. One (either) of the white wires from the motor should go to the other switch contact IN THAT PAIR. That leaves you with one more pair that has continuity with the switch turned ON. The white wire from the power cord goes to one of those, and the second white wire from the motor goes to the other one. When you have it all wired up, plug it in & turn it on. If it's not right, it should immediately pop your circuit breaker. If it IS right, it should run fine. If it pops your circuit breaker, open it back up and swap one wire from the power cord and one wire from the motor.

Search using https://www.google.com or eBay.com Example of search result: http://www.1sourcecomponents.com/partinfo/Fa4-12/2bd%20trigger%20switch.htm

One turn.

Find a Single Pole Single Throw (spst) toggle switch at the local hardware store rated for the load of the grinder. Wire the switch in place and viola you are done! Machines are stupid;they can tell the difference between an oem part and a replacement.

You can get a replacement toggle switch at any hardware store look in the electrical department.

If you can't find the direct replacement check with Grainger or other industrial supply house ... https://www.grainger.com/category/push-pull-switches/automotive-electrical-and-lighting/fleet-and-vehicle-maintenance/ecatalog/N-15m5?okey=push-pull+switches&mkey=Push%2FPull+Switches+&refineSearchString=push-pull+switches&NLSCM=5&EndecaKeyword=push-pull+switches&searchRedirect=push-pull+switches&sst=subset&suggestConfigId=6&nls_boost_words=noContent

I cleaned all the wiring connectors etc and used a 4-way extension cord with an i/o switch and thermal/arc breaker surge protector thingy. I had a piece of thick cable with a molded three prong plug which I had removed from a dead paper shredder (I think??) and connected the ground to the case (previously not connected) the black to the black and white to the white. I taped the connections and plugged the test cable into the extension thingy with its switch off and plugged it into the wall outlet. Then, with the grinder switch on, I gingerly switched on the extension thingy and the grinder (sans all moving parts) ie just the motor case and spindle (held securely in the B&D workmate) and viola(!) it worked fine and built up to very fast. I switched off the grinder switch and the motor slowed, taking an age to come to rest.
Then, I fitted a grinding wheel on the left hand thread end, tightened everything and retested, using the grinder switch to start it and it spun really fast.
Soooo, I guess the secure ground is an essential feature of a capacitor induction motor. I checked some old furnace motors that were "maturing" in the basement and they had no capacitor but only 2 wires...
I am now trying to remember which parts came off last and put it all back together. I plan to test it each time I put a part back...just in case. I hate it when you fix something on the bench and when rebuilt, it won't work...don't ask about the electric starter on the snowblower..not a happy puppy!
Please, pretty please and then some, do tell me if my "fix" is wrong and I could risk all kinds of nastiness.
Thanks,
Jenni.

Jet 577102 is a bench grinder with 1HP motor. It has got guards on the grinding wheel. Dust vents and guard makes the grinder makes it an efficient grinder. 115 Volt is needed to run this high performance grinder.

Sometimes it could be like this contact by the centrifugal interrupter or the powerswitch or startcapacitor (only if its buzzing) an other kind of relay switch it should be simple to measure it .but to adjust it for time release can be ??.

To convert it its possible more expensive then buy an other grinder but there is some trick to connect in serial on the powercord a light bulb on a special choosen ability differs on the RPM or use a variable power resistor also in serial connection between on one of the 2 wires on the powercord.

Here a possible diagram

The dresser wheel is applied strait onto the grinding wheel when you get ridges & valleys on the front of the grinding wheel to make it straight again.

A Drill what has no torque can have bad bearings but i think the drill Brand AND model = X X but it is very often an Li-ion battery tool that is only a 2 or maybe 3 years old but the armatures inside them most of them are coming made by the brand JOHNSON (not Makita) a very nice and very powerfull but also an cheap part and that armatures are far much cheaper then the most people are thinking that the batteries have not enough capacity thats an expensive methode thinking and thats in the most cases wrong sometimes .but 20 on 80 % its the battery sometimes if the tool is too long lasting and working with a bad armature then the batteries will be damaged very soon, if batteries are in short time empty and tool has no power ... If you think You have an Li ION Battery tool , like Milwaukee or Panasonic AND very IMPORTANT to know is if the tool is making a terrible piercing sound you can take the test you should see you can only buy a new carbon brushholder if the brushes where worn,.... but if you use the tool daily a 3 or 4 weeks long the brushes are having the same length again and its very bad for the most expensive parts of all .. the li-ion batteries that you maybe have bought and much people (the most ) are thinking that the batteries are having a bad capacity but that is not true ,An anchor and replaceable brush holder is much cheaper and are most (new) only selled in a combination together new Panasonic drawings and the tool sounds again real smooth and 2 or 3 years later then you can maybe again use your batteries for in use in a BRUSHLESS powertool. where only a switch internally should be cleaned with solvent or contact spray and with white grease relubricated . Much people think its a problem with the new brushless tools ,but i find out that i have 3 milwaukee brushless tools cleaned the switch and the batteryconnector and have checked the thickness of the contacts, because if the contacts are bad , its not easy to get separate new parts for this brushless models a separate connector for the batteries is not deliverable by the brushless tools by Milwaukee. only in Australie and also and even worser are the contacts on the Dewalt brushless tools have sometimes in a very early time bad contacts even holes on it on the battery + and - connectors on the brushless powertools. strange but often occurs it has also so much power that its like a welding tool between the contacts in the connectors you not can see, and the tools are to little for the jobs where the most people it for used, (the problem is the heat dissipation because of the power and the extent of the modern tools they are often abused , there where better tools can used with a powercord but they have for the torque look alike less power and are for the modern people to heavy to work with.

If this happens just after bought a new tool, Then there is a problem with a start capacitor, or the auxiliary winding from the motor , or just only a loose slide contact if there was a induction motor used, If such a thing happens go back to the dealer for warranty if you in doubt about control if its an easy to fix problem by yourself if nothing was broken.