20 Most Recent Dewalt 2 Hp 4 GAL Air Compressor Questions & Answers

I think I can help you guys needing a replacement CC-5440M12 120V/60Hz Ronning Motor. I have been cleaning out my shop and I have four (4) of these used electric motors. All work fine. They still have the plastic fan blade on one end and the metal gear on the other. I actually have electric cords wired up on each of them that I used to make sure they worked.
Thought I would pass this information on to you. Thanks and have a great day.

Dewalt recommends synthetic oil in their compressors. The dewlat part # 5130427-00 quart, and 5130702-00 for a 4oz size. Available at www.dewalt.com or their service center. I have been using the Lowes brand of synthetic compressor oil. Kobalt oil sells for about $7 and works great. If you do not use your compressor all day like I do, you can use the standard grade of Kobalt compressor oil that sells for around $3. Synthetic oil is for extreme conditions. Good Luck!

The plug type is a clue to voltage and current. Usually by law (electrical code) a normal plug with one vertical blade and one horizontal blade is 120 volt 20 amp. If you read the name plate to see the voltage and current required and it is the wrong plug type then it could accidentally be plugged into the wrong voltage if you were in an unfamiliar commercial building for example. So the plug type should match your specs. If this is just for you and your own specialized cables then make sure that the plug can handle the current specified or upgrade it to a safer plug style. I can't tell you a breaker and wire size etc until you give me the name plate specs.

Check valve on tank

I don't know what specific model you have but, there is a resettable circuit breaker somewhere on your compressor, they all have one. They are usually on the motor itself somewhere around the edge of the endcaps. It may be remotely located on the motor shroud or casing. It will be a small round button about the size of a pencil eraser either white or black and sometimes they have a number around 15 to 20 stamped on them to indicate what amperage they will pop at. After the motor cools all you have to is push the button back in and it should work. The reason most pop is due to running the compressor on an extension cord or it the power cord on the compressor is compromised, i.e. partially cut or broken wires inside the cord or a missing ground prong.

Air leaking from the pressure switch indicates that the in-tank check valve is leaking. Follow the air discharge hose from the compressor to the tank. The brass valve at the tank is the check valve. With air in the tank remove the inlet hose from the checkvalve and spray soapy water on valve to check for leaks. If leaking, remove the valve and check for debris under seat or replace. If the check valve is not leaking then pressue switch is leaking from within switch(spray soapy water below switch) . Good luck

There could be several issues with your compressor. Oilless compessors have a silicone vinyl piston ring that wears over time allowing compression to leak past thru cylinder. This condition will cause the tank to never reach enough pressure to shut off. Your pressure is very low however indicating other problems including leaking reedvalves in the head which would cause the discharge air to be very hot and faulty pressure regulator on the manafold giving you 0 pressure. Easy tests. Remove housing and examine the cylinder /piston by manualy turning the motor till piston is at top of stroke against head. Examine the condition of the cylinder close to top. If it looks scratched, then piston ring and cylinder should be replaced (cylinder kit n036517). If cylinder looks good, look for leaking discharge hose or very hot air being discharged. If very hot, suspect reed valves (reed valve plate n017592sv). To test the regulator on the manafold, fill the tank with air using another compressor thru the quick connect or remove a fitting and connect airline. The regulator should read same pressure as the other compressor. If no reading, the regulator is faulty. Take the regulator apart and clean/ lube components or replace with new (manifold regulator a18351). If when you take the cover off you find that the belt is slipping, also change the check valve at the tank. Faulty checkvalve will cause the belt to slip. Good luck with your repair.

there is an unloader to take the pressure off of the piston. The leak is there. However to me it sounds like the exhaust valve in the head of the cylinder is stuck and pressure is coming back out of the tank, to the head and the unloader.

Hi,
The valve(s) are bad in the compressor and are not closing when they should and the air is pusshing right back out the air filter...

You will need to pull the unit apart and fix the valve...

heatman101

All air compressors build pressure in the tank(s) to their maximum allowed by the pressure switch. The regulator only controls the pressure of the air available at the outlet. That's why they have two pressure guages, one for tank pressure and one for outlet pressure. If you cannot control the air pressure at the outlet then you have a defective/broken regulator. Dewalt does not make the regulator as a seperate part for their air compressors, you have to buy the entire manifold which includes a regulator to fix this problem.

Do you bleed down the air pressure from the tank after you use it each time. You should because you will end up wiyh water in the tank from condencation that will rust your tank out. And this will make it much easyer to start because it dosn't have to fight the air pressure that is being stored in the tank

Hi, my name is John. Welcome to FixYa. You are loosing pressure somewhere. Check for air leaks in the lines, check the line coming from the pump to the tank, check the drain valve at the bottom of tank. Thanks for choosing FixYa....John

Need service at the pressure control valve.