Northstar Generator 9 Hp, 5500 Watt, Gasoline - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It's a rubber grommet available from eReplacement Parts for $1.84. Part # GS-0446.
Their link is ereplacementparts.com
Phone: 866-802-6383

I just got a new one for my tank. Had to order 3 as they have a $5.00 minimum order.

The voltage regulator for the generator is not work, replace it. Why, if there no dc voltage to excite the stator it won't any output. GB...stewbison

Hi, you can find them on amazon. Take a look here: Portable Generators from Briggs Stratton. I hope this was helpful. Cheers

Check the connections between the alternator (generator) and the regulator/output connectors.

It's very common for the connectors between the alternator and power outlets to come loose on these. Give them a check and tighten as necessary.

sounds like the carb should be pulled off and cleaned.Make sure to clean the jets and needle valve

there are two things in generator out put
one is max out put which is 5500 in your case and another is rated out put which should be about 4500 in your generator Max out put should be used only for a little time say half an hour otherwise generator is suppose to run on rated load or rated out put which is 4.5 kva or 4500watts in your set that also when you are in Ideal conditions means if you are at the sea level if you are above in altitude you can calculate that engine will loose its efficiency at the rate of 3% after every 1000 feet altitude inthat way you can calculate how much rated load you can put on the generator

Small generators like this almost always have 2 stator windings 180 degrees out pf phase, that's how it makes the 220.
At the back (maybe side) of the outlet box should be a molex type plug that has the wires from the stator, get an ohm meter and measure them (with the generator shut off of course). You should find that you've got 4 wires in the plug, 1 wire for each end of 2 coils. From one end to the other of each coil you should measure less than an ohm, between the coils there is usually no connection, but some models have the neutral ends of each coil connected together inside the generator housing.

It sounds to me like you've got one of the power windings open...

Carl

The stator is the series of copper windings inside the generator (does not move,). The stator will have several pairs of leads connected to the control panel. The rotor also has winding however is the center revolving shaft. The rotor creates a magnet that excites the stator. The rotor could be brush type having two or more rings where carbon brushes make contact or brushless having built-in diodes and voltage regulator (some not all). You can obtain resistance reading from your dealer to test the windings in the stator. You can easily test the brush type rotor by applying 12v (one or two amp) dc to the rings and test for good magnet at metal part of rotor ( use thin metal blade). Good luck

Hello, ushicks/me hillybilly. One question how old is the fuel in then generator tank,Hey. If it has a fuel filter replace it. Modern gasoline is junk fuel and after a few months it looses some chemical proprieties. GB...stewbison

I am just closing this out. Asker has manual.
Kelly

SInce the engines now have several different carbs on them we need to know your exact engine model type / series numbers from the engine.
On a standard carb you remove the float bowl, clean out the bowl the Bowl nut or solenoid and ensure the main fuel jet up inside the treaded area of the carb where the bowl nut threads into is not bolcked with s tiny speck of something. (that is all it takes to shut it down)
Then you check to make sure that you have fuel flow from the float needle are with the float bowl removed.... No fuel here and you have a fuel supply problem.... (shut off valve under the fuel tank in the wrong position, fuel fileter clogged or fuel tank outlet port is clogged.)

Check the above.. make sure oil is FULL as full as you can get it and respond with the COMPLETE engine Model number / (all the numbers) if you still require assistance.

Thanks,
Kelly

No this should not be a problem as long as its not jumped from the 220 to the one 110. 1 leg.

Check the Idle Control On/Off Switch to make sure it is on and working with a meter

Is the on off switch faulty? Short it across its terminals to see. Also do you have a breaker that needs to be reset on that model? Are both the 240 and 110 receptacles inoperable?

on the end of the rotor their is a Diode as well as a varistor these will go bad common in these units and cause a power loss these are attached to the rotor by a strip some like a pc board some a insulated tang to say remove the 2 one on each side Diode part# 778959 varistor part# 778961 manufacture numbers you should be able to go to any electronic store like radio shack and cross ref the numbers as to the diode i don't have the spec's but when you find it it will have the voltage rating get the next size up it is better to go to a higher voltage what the diode does it acts like a 1 way valve power flows one way and if their is a spike it wont allow it to come bach and damage parts before it it will also act like a fuse to sorts to much it will pop. the varistor varies the flow their sensitive and adjustable if purchased from other than manufactures factory it will need to be adjusted hope one is good and use a multi meter and test the Resistance and adjust the new one to that spec as close as you can at the end plate their is a capacitor part # 778958 replace this as well again go a higher volt rating but do not change the MF value with this said and done.your will have a more stable sign wave and beefier circuitry able to hold up better use lock tight on the screws for these.ther is not any control in the box with the plugs just breakers after replacing these parts and there is still no power then the stator is shorted and will need either re-winding or replaced.
hope this helps.

Sounds like the choke is not closing. Perhaps it has become detached from the manual throttle.
A simple test you can perform is to let it cool for an hour or more, remove the air filter and cover the air intake with your hand (making your hand a manual choke). If it starts right up, then the real choke is the problem.
There are two valves that you can see from the top of the carb. The one closest to the air cleaner is the choke. The other one is the throttle. Both valves operate through 90 degrees of rotation. The choke should close all of the way with the lever in the start position and be open all of the way with the lever in any other position.

The field probably has lost the bit of magnetism it needs to get started. Search Google for methods of recharging this field. One method I have used consists of connecting two series light bulbs between the generator 120 volts and the utility power. Some have been able to take a standard electric drill without variable speed triger and plug in and give the drill a spin which sometimes will drive enough into the generator to start remagnetizing it.

Note: If an accidental short occured on your generator, the rotating diodes may have been destroyed in which case it will need replacemnt of the diodes.

I don't where it is on yours but an AVR is a voltage regulator so it will be somewhere in between the ac generator and the inverter.

RECOMENDATION:
Turn off Fuel valve.

Hope this tip helps.

R/
David