20 Most Recent Porter Cable Porter-Cable Variable Speed Random-Orbit Sander , Model #7336 Questions & Answers

You have to use a wrench behind the disk for a stop and then unscrew from the housing Porter Cable

I have the same sander and found Black and Decker 93mm x 190mm sheets fit well

I just had the same problem. I couldnt find any information online.call the toll-free help line1800-689-9928Tell them the make of the sander and what kind of part you need. They will look it up and ship it to you in 7-10 business days

you need new brushes or clean out the holes they go in so they move freely

if this is disk type grinder make sure you did not knock the disk out of alignment when it fell off table if so remove and re-align or replace disk seen it before make sure

I also have a PC Model 136 belt sander. Although I don't do a lot of woodworking, it has proved to be a workhorse when I needed it. I don't have a problem with breaking belts - the last ones I bought at OSH. The problem that has developed with mine is getting the belt alignment adjusted, after a belt change, to not run against the sander body. A little banging (with my hand) will correct the problem. I have serviced it to free up the fulcrum, but it still jams most of the time. This doesn't address your problem, but it is good to hear of someone else who appreciates the fine older tools. Just a further thought - the newer belts I have purchased are bi-directional, e.g., they will run either way. I know that the older belts had to run one way and running them backward could - almost surely would - cause them to break. I won't insult your intelligence to suggest that that might be your problem.

The brushes are not replaceable - it is an entire motor assembly. 1) remove the 2 screws holding the top handle on 2) remove the 2 screws on the top of the housing (front either side of switch) 3) remove single screw holding cord hook (rear side of housing) 4) remove small torx screw in the shaker handle and remove the handle Flip over and using a screwdriver begin to pry the top cover off the housing (easiest to get the front side off first)

any word on type of nailer?

call this company, they have the different types I purchased from them and no complaints https://www.ereplacementparts.com/porter-cable-7800-

first you need to remove the tank and get rid of the rust with a rust kill agent, vinga or chemical type with corrosive converter, then liquid paint the inside of the tank, swilling the paint inside and leave to drip out. then find a high pressure line filter, these are a solid filter and put in line. to stop this happening again to the tank you can also put a drop valve in place and when not in use press to release the air inside as this is what rusts the tank. but after the restoration it should be fine without a filter.

Is this it? https://www.manualslib.com/manual/132302/Porter-Cable-Bsv750.html

I suggest that you make sure that there is no air he tool so, remove the air supply. Then if you remove the cover from the nose (Making sure that you also take out all the unused nails first) it should allow access to the front nose plate. If you remove this, it will allow you to carefully remove the nail. While you're at it, check that the driver blade tip doesn't have any burring or damage to it. If so, you might need to fettle it back into shape or, replace it?

take it back for a warranty exchange make sure that the voltage listed on the machine is the same as used in the house

Remove the screws holding the 2 sides together and expose the wiring. Remove the remnants of old cord and replace with new one. Reassemble.