20 Most Recent LG LHD65EBL Dehumidifier - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Contact LG customer service 1-800-243-0000 option 7 for assistance.

Your fan motor is going out. You can remove the screws from the back cover and gently pry it off. After that, look into the unit and you will see the screws holding the front cover. Take the bucket out and remove the screws at the top. All the screws around the entire metal shroud need to come out. Then with the covers off you can see the fan mount screws. You have to move the evaporator very gently out of the way to get to these screws. Remove the fan motor replace it and re assemble the unit.

switch may be going bad or not making a good connection inside container as far as setting a crawl space will be most damp if your worried about mold would recommend most dry setting

Sure, you can find parts on line, just search "lg parts" then look for you model.
http://www.lge.com/us/support/parts/support-find-parts.jsp

If the fan is not working:Take it out, and search the part number on line, they are bout $40 with s/h. however my current discovery:
It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND
Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-NDt working the likely problem is:

35 is way low; why not 50%?

At the cooler temp you may need to also run a small fan or space heater blowing on it.

It is working, but the setting is too low and the temp in the room is too low

It contains several circuit boards and a fan motor - it is now ruined, just like a flooded car or stereo

take out bucket
remove blue tape under edge of bottom of front cover (at top of bucket opening), pull down filter (it slides up behind the the front upper grill)

If the fan motor is quite hot to the touch when it is running and the smell is like something burning and the fan blade isn't rubbing on the housing then the fan motor bearing are most likely worn out. If that is the case then the fan motor is bad and needs to be replaced.

Did you dump the water out and replace the bucket correctly? If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

On the bucket there should be a cap. If you remove it your hose can attach to it. Run the hose top a drain. If possible, raise the dehumidifier so the water drains properly. From time to time, pour a little bit of bleach into the hose to keep mold away.

Store bought products like these are extremely hard to get parts. Your best bet is to contact the manufacturer, but don't expect much assistance from them.

Make sure your coil and fan is clean and verify that the compressor is coming on.

please more information what do you men by hums

remove the back airfilter, and touch the tubes while the unit is running, if nice and cold, all is well, there just isnt any moisture there. but if compressor is running and tubes are warm , means freon/coolant has leaked out

it will not start if the area is not humid

CHECK FOR THE SUPPY

HI, you will need to check the terminal block. this is where the power cord runs to on the back side of the unit. make sure it is not lose or worn. you may have to disassemble the unit to expose the terminal block in this case. the power cord wires will spit into three or four little wires and, they will either be soldered or screwed on the block. make sure these wires are secure and not ripped or worn.

Now, if the terminal block is in good condition, this will confirm power board failuer and, in this case, you will need to replace the board supply board .

I am guessing the system has a leak and you are very low on coolant, I have had the same problem. I assume its still under warranty.