20 Most Recent Coleman Powermate Premium Plus 6250W Portable Generator - Page 9 Questions & Answers

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Most coleman gens use the following part as assembly:

Part # 0062455 assembly , bridge rectifier

this assembly is installed on the plastic end cover and has a capacitor soldered onto the board. If this is the part that you have, then it is installed with the capacitor against the back plate. When it is installed, the back is the board is up facing you. The brush wires will only install one way because of the length of the wires (one will not reach to connect). If you are replacing parts on the board please send photo. Glad to help.

http://gigabytedownloads.com/search/coleman_6250_generator_manual

Let me know it this doesn't work for you. Thanks

You will have more available power (and use a different larger breaker already on your generator) if you use the 220 plug instead of the 115v plugs. Have an electrician make you an breakout box separating the 220v plug into two 115v outlets. Or your can replace the push button breakers with better quality 25 amp. Problem is that the 115v receptacles are probably 15 amp. Other solution is to try a 220v pump instead of 115v (more efficient draws less amps). Good luck

Next step is to check that the magnet attached to the fly wheel is working properly. When you crank the generator over, put a multimeter on the leads to the magnet and look for a spike in the voltage. Be sure to get the polarity correct or you will damage your multimeter. If there isn't a spike in the voltage, then either the magnet is bad or the fly wheel is damaged. In either case parts will have to be ordered and replaced. If there is a spike in voltage, then it is time to check the fuel intake. Open up and take out the air filter. Inspect the air filter to make sure it is clean and doesn't have fuel or oil in it. If the air filter is we with either things, then this will prevent air from reaching the engine. This alone will cause it not to start. If the filter is clean, then leave it off and open up the throttle. This will give you direct access to the engine through the fuel intake. Put some fuel into a spray bottle, and when you crank over the engine spray some fuel into the hole where the air filter was. If the engine starts/sputters then you have a problem with your carburetor. If the engine doesn't start then you have a deeper issue that may require a trained mechanic to fix. Lets say that if the engine does start/sputter, then we need to take the carburetor off. Our goal is to clean the carburetor of any build-up and/or corrosion that has settled in the carburetor bowl. The carburetor is between the air filter assembly and the main engine block. When in doubt, trace the fuel line from the gas tank, and it will lead you to the carburetor. Next, grab the necessary tools and start by turning off the fuel and draining the carburetor. The fuel valve is typically inline with the fuel line. To drain the carburetor bowl loosen the screw on the bottom of the carburetor bowl. Once the last drop is out, then unbolt the carburetor from the engine block. With the carburetor off and parts labeled for easy re-assembly, you then have to remove the fuel bowl. This will either unscrew as a whole from the carburetor body, or have a central bolt that has to be removed. When removing the bowl, PLEASE be very careful and mindful of the fuel float and the filling pin. With the bowl safely off, inspect it for fuel build-up and rust/corrosion. If there is either in the bowl then this means you need to grab a fuel safe cup and an old toothbrush and carefully start cleaning the bowl and the surrounding parts. If you are comfortable with small parts at this point, then carefully remove the fuel float and the the filler pin underneath it. Please take note on how this dis-assembles to ease re-assembly. Clean these parts as well with the clean fuel and toothbrush. Assemble the parts back together once you are sure everything is clean and put the carburetor assembly back onto the engine block. Once everything is tightened down, it is time to turn the fuel back on at the valve on the fuel line. With the fuel back on, hit the prime button 3-5 times and crank the engine over. If the engine doesn't turn over at this point, then there is a much deeper mechanical issue that requires a trained mechanic to fix. Most mechanical fixes at this point are not worth your while and you may save money by purchasing a new engine/generator. Please let me know what you find during diagnosis, and I can provide more help.

Hi,
The first thing I would check is the oil level...when the oil was hot it still was high enough to keep it running, but then it cooled down the oil level drops slightly and then the oil sensor will not allow it to start,
Check oil and add as needed and then retry to start.

heatman101

first remove gas tank and the carb then remove the front air cover flywheel side then remove the head bolts and remove the head turn the engine by hand make sure it is indeed stuck and not bent.
on the crab side there will be a plate with 2 screws and a rubber tube remove this there will be a mesh filter under it this will give access to the valve springs and the clip to remove them take a pair of pliers and slide under the valve spring and push handle down this will force the spring up allowing access to the keeper pin remove it with a pair of needle nose pliers.
relax the spring tension slide the valve out and make note as to how the spring parts go together do both valves look at the valve as well as the seat in the block for a black burn marks on the mating surface this will tell you it there burnt replace valve if burnt or bent get some lapping compound from napa auto and run some on the valve edge part that mates to the seat in the block.
with a valve seating tool attach the suction cup to the valve top and insert to the block and rub the tool between your hands applying some pressure this is called lapping the seats.
remove the valve and clean off the lapping compound good
place the bad and good valve on a flat surface as long as the bad one is not bent check the height if the ned one is a bit longer you can grind off the top some small end just to get close if looks ok no worries leave it alone then assemble the parts in reverse replacing the gaskets you need change the oil and fire it up that's how you preform a valve job if the valves are good then you need to replace the rings or piston but even with them bad you should have some compression so chances are it is a bad valve rings will require a complete tear down contact a small engine repair for the torque settings for the head bolts for the engine you have. hope this helps

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
The generator has a low oil level sensor. Make sure the oil level is FULL all the way to the point oil comes out of the oil fill port when you add oil. If after your sure it is full of oil it still does not start then disconnect ONE wire from the oil level sensor and check for spark.

There is a model number on a data plate that begins with "PM" like this:
PM0435005

This model came as a manual and an electric start so the model number is important. The engine on this model is a Subaru engine and my experience with Subaru engines it that the low oil level sensors are extremely sensitive to even the slightest drop in oil level. (Good engines though!)

There should be a fuel selector that you need to turn ON and a Choke lever that you PULL and then push in upon start.

This should be and EH34 or EY34 engine.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

The generator has a low oil level sensor. Fill the oil all the way to the FULL mark and try it again.

IF you still have the problem after adding oil; repsond here and I can still help you. Just want to get this off as it has been 4 hours since your post.

Kelly

Hi, not if its round. Just position the drain so its accessible. Regards Phil.

On most Coleman generators, there is a rubber seal that literally evaporates if left in time. Most people don't even see it because it has gone. You must check if any seals are missing. Make sure that the gas regulator is screwed as tight as it can go because if it isn't, it will leak like a sib. Last problem could be the open and shut valve is stuck which is another thing that happens when it sits over time without using it. You need to start it up and hold the choke and that will stop the leak and let it run for a couple of minutes and let go of the choke. It should open and close the valve with no problems after that.

Hi Chuck and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

First off will it fire over if you add a splash of gas to the throat of the carb?
No = you probably have a stuck valve. I just add gas straight to the spark plug hole and slowly pull the recoil through with the ignition off. Most of the time it works to free sticky valve stems after 2 or 3 cycles of adding gas and slowly pulling the recoil through. Then you have to place rags on the cylinder head to catch all of that gas as you pull the recoil through rapidly for expell the gas. WIPE up any residual fuel before attempting a start.

Still no start check compression... If you don't have a compression tester you can make a poor mans tester... Form a paint brush handle to fit into the hole tightly so that is does not extend into the cylinder any farther than the spark plug would. Pull the recoil.... It should LAUNCH the paint brush out of the hole quite some distance and with force.

Yes it fires: SEE BELOW

If this unit had been sitting for some time there are some things you should do: (I note you said you cleaned the carb but the steps below are what need done on a unit that was idle for an extended period)
1. Clean the fuel float bowl
2. Make sure the main fuel jet orifice located in the area where the float bowl nut or solenoid attaches the float bowl to the body of the carb is cleaned. It will have a pin hole in it that ports fuel to a brass tube at the 6 o'clock position in the throat of the carb. The jet is removable but...most of the time you have to modify a regular screwdriver by grinding off some of the wide portion of the blade shank to make it fit the slot in the orifice and the body of the carb. If you use a screwdriver that is too small it will damage the jet and the only way to get it out is to drill it out VERY carefully.
THE PIN HOLE of the main fuel jet MUST BE VISIBLE
3. Check fuel flow to the carb via the float needle, With the float bowl off, place a spray paint can lid under the float and turn on the fuel selector. The spray can lid should fill in about 10 seconds.
If you do not have this amount of fuel flow then remove the main fuel line from the carb and check flow again. If you still have fuel flow problems
a. Check gas tank exit port for obstructions
b. Check feul flow beforr and after the fuel filter (if used).
c. Check fuel flow before and after the fuel shut off / fuel selector Many fuel selectors have a sediment bowl under the selector.. if yours had a sediment bowl remove the bowl and clean out the contents.
4. You have good fuel flow to the carb manifold....
a. Recheck fuel flow at under the fuel float with the float down. It must provide a reasonable fuel flow that would fill a spray can lid in around 10 seconds. If you still have fuel flow problems only at the the float needle remove the float and float needle. Also the main fuel line. Spray carb cleaner from the flat needle seat are to the fuel manifold and then from the manifold to the float needle seat.
5. Float check... must shut off fuel flow as it is raised to level i.e just as it reaches level.
b. Reassemble and test.

This USUALLY does the trick... if not I need the model number of your generator that starts with a "P" so I can look up the engine and carb data.

Given you have already cleaned up the carb I think you may have a valve stem that is slowing the operation of the valve.... or preventing it from closing (
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

I use standard grade no lead 89 octane rating. I prefer to use regular gas with no alcohol. I also use a additive called sea foam at a rate of 2-3 ounces per gallon. This is available at most auto parts stores and works very well to keep engine free of carbon build up and helps keep fuel stabilized. For oil I use straight 30 weight for use above 32 degrees and 10w-30 for lower temperatures.Hope this helps you. Thanks.

Here is a good place to start learning about your generator. After sitting for so long I would start with with a couple of gallons of premium fuel (regular is recommended but since yours has been setting, you may need the extra punch. ). Good luck


http://www.coleman-generators.org/starting-coleman-powermate-generator.html

It could be a number of thinks. plugged fuel line, carburetor, but dont use to much starter fluid this can burn a hole in the top of your piston. check to see if its getting any spark.

check the fuse or breaker first if good go to the plug in see if a wire came off these get a lot of movment so it could come off look for any broken wires if this isnt the problem check yhe diod they coul have gone bad all of these are an simple fix you could get a meter and see were power is coming and trace it to the bad part take the fuse or breaker out and get a meter to chech if the part is good . good luck

Hi, It is the piston rings. They are not sealing properly. 1 good trick is to put a shot of diesel in the sparkplug and let it sit over night. In the morning start as usual. This will help loosen the rings and stop the leaks. There will be a bit of smoke when you start it up. This is OK. Good luck.