20 Most Recent Troy Bilt 17 Inch 29 Cc Gas Powered Clutched Curve Shaft Trimmer #41ADT52C966 Questions & Answers

Couple of things. First thing I would do is take the wires off the back of the kill switch and the check for spark, I've seen a few bad switch's. If you still have no spark then the coil is next, getting to it can not be to easy you'll have to remove the shaft then the front of the engine housing next remove the clutch cover. What I do to remove these clutch cover is remove the spark plug and take a piece of 5/16 rope about 6 in. long and put about 3 in. of it down the spark plug hole pull the starter cord slowly till the piston come up to the rope and stops the engine from tuning. This way you can take a T-20 star driver and reach inside of the hole on the clutch cover and loosen the screw that holds the clutch cover on. (Leave the rope in the spark plug hole) Under the cover you'll find the clutch it's self, it's going to have the word off and a arrow stamped it. I take a brass drift and hammer to unscrew it but have used channel locks. Then remove the 4 screws holding the housing to the engine under all this you'll find the flywheel and coil. Some time you'll find the magnet's on the flywheel rusty and need to be cleaned with sand paper, or the pickups on the coil that reads the magnets dirty. But the only way to check and see if either of these helped you have to put everything back together and try it. So after doing all this work to get there its usually better to replace the coil with a known good one and then put it back together. Good Luck to ya.

The carburator has a sereis of one way check valves that get cloged very easily.
If you remove the carburator and clean it out with a simple cleaning solution you should be able to clean it up.Do not use compressed air.

Or it could be like mine. I turned it upside down to take the cover off (Troy Bilt) to clean the air filter. Put it back together and the primer won't fill. Also it looked like air was coming into the bulb from the carb. Weird, since it was filling just a minute ago. Turns out the fuel lines in the tank were dry rotted. When I emptied the fuel tank, bits and pieces of fuel line came out along with several washers and a weight that goes on the end of the hose. Looking inside I saw a hose not connected to anything. Pulled it out and it came out in pieces (kept breaking when I'd grab it). That's why it's not connected to anything! Also why it won't prime or start. Probably also why it was getting to where it didn't run very well, and only on the A choke setting. It would cost almost as much to fix as to buy a new one. Bummer. For $90 though, if lasted five years. Maybe if I change the lines earlier on the next one I can even get more life out of it.

Several small engine dealers have parts for Troy Bilt but here is one site that will give you your part numbers and an idea of the costs you are looking at. Good luck!
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/

there should be a label stating the oil type somewhere on the engine or cap or owners manual, if not most manufacturers recomend a 30 weight oil. be sure to drain out the old stuff first.

It is likely left hand or reverse threaded. You have to turn it the opposite way to loosen.

You have done and are doing exactly what is necessary to solve your problem.
Lastly: remove your carburetor and clean it thoroughly using carburetor cleaner available at most auto parts stores. Replace the diaphragm and metering diaphragm. Diaphragms become stiff with age and with modern fuels and will not pull enough of a fuel-charge into the combustion chamber.

These amchines smoke a little, but if it is smoking a lot,.....either the gas/oil fuel mix has too much oil or the engine is badly worn. If it is the engine, power and acceleration will be lacking . Too much oil in the gas may eventually foul the plug...lest you mix up a batch at the proper ratio. 40:1 is good. 3.2 oz 2-Cycle oil to ONE gallon of gasoline. Always use fresh fuel in these small engines. If the mix is over 1 month old, dump it back into the can, pour it all into your car (won't hurt it) and make some new.

Maybe. Search for your model # over at partstree.com and find the parts diagram. The upper housing (by throttle) is usually replaced as an assembly, the lower housing (attachment) can typically replace just the cable.

The 2 options are a bit pricey (~50-65), you will have to weigh the economics.

If I understand, the attatchments that connect to the power head at the middle of the pole do not work anymore.

What does the engine sound like when the attachments are fitted, and the throttle is opened? Does it sound like it is bogging down (under load), or is it able to rev up like there is no load present?

Here is why I ask. There is a small female receiver that the square drive on each attachments' drive cable slips into. If you pull the attachment off, and look into the end towards the engine, you can see this receiver. It is not uncommon for these "sockets" to work themselves loose on the shaft. There can be enough friction for the socket to turn with nothing attached, but the additional load of attachment causes it to slip.

Another possibility is that the clutch and drum may be the cause, but you indicate that they are already been replaced. Just to make sure, you didn't get any grease or oil on the clutches or drum did you? Short of a broken cable between clutch and drive socket, there isn't anything else other than the socket slipping. Unless both of your attachments have failed in the same way with the same symptoms at the same time. Possible, but that is a pretty long stretch to occur.

Check the drive socket. You will most likely have to pull the power head apart, and loosen the drive cable. You should then be able to pull the socket one the snap / retaining rings are removed (if present).

With the mower jacked up place a belt or rope around the center of the tire all away around and draw it tight. Apply pressure and when the tire starts to fill you can release the belt. Apply pressure until you hear the bead pop, indicating that it has a bead lock to the rim. Let the air out to the right pressure, check all tire pressures and set the deck to level. Go mow your lawn.