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Hitachi EC12 Portable Electric 2hp Air Compressor, Oil Lubricated - Page 4 Questions & Answers
Ec12. Runs fine. Tanks fill
You are correct in suspecting the regulator. Easy fix however. Remove the safety pop valve and install a tee fitting. Reinstall the safety on one port and install a quick-connect fitting on the other port. Now you will have access to full tank pressure when you need full power. In the process of regulating pressure, the 1/4 inch port size adjustable regulator will restrict the air volume. A 3/8 port size (larger air regulator ) is less volume restricting however more expensive. You can install a 3/8 port size regulator on your compressor in place of the small one installed now. Other possible trouble areas are too small inside diameter air hose , too long of a hose and air hose that has inner liner torn and is restricting airflow. Good luck
My compressor started to spit oil from the cap
Usually, oil at the fill plug indicates too much oil in the crankcase. Fill to top of notch cut into dipstick. The dipstick should have two
orings that seal in oil and makes for firm fit into body of compressor. If oil and dipstick are ok, then suspect compressed air leaking past rings. Remove cylinder with head attached to check condition of cylinder / piston/ rings. Easy fix and low prices on parts. Go to
www.toolpartsdirect.com Good luck
Regulator was replaced, but the same pressure is
If you are getting the same pressure on the outlet side of the regulator as you have in the tank, regardless of where you set the regulator knob, it's possible you have the regulator on backwards. The inlet and outlet on the regulator are on opposing sided and the third hole is for the output gage. Try turning the regulator around. If that doesn't fix the problem, it is possible you got a bad replacement.
Its hard for me to describe in technical terms
Your infeed valve is stuck/broke in the open position. As you are looking at the motor/pump side of the compressor, on the right side of the top tank there is a brass valve that has leading into it a copper tube from the pump and the small black tube from the pressure switch. This valve lets air into the tank from the pump but should close when the pump turns off. When the motor turns off the black tube lets air bleed out of the pump and copper line so the motor can turn over when the pressure switch turns it on again. You need to contact Hitachi or one of their service centers to find out which infeed valve you need, they ahve different part numbers depending on what year your compressor was made. Go to
http://www.hitachipowertools.com/index.aspx and use either their contact us page or the search for your nearest service center page and they should be able to tell you what part number you need.
I have an Hitachi EC-12
Pull the dipstick and notice the notch cut into both sides at bottom (push dipstick all the way in to check oil level). Fill to top of notch. Lowest safe oil level is bottom of notch. This unit does not hold much oil. Always use the compressor on level ground (tilted compressor could cause a lack of lubrication). Good luck
Air compressor starts fine,but trips
With no air in the tank and amp meter connected to one leg of line, start compressor and note amp draw thru cycle. It should draw low amps at first then reach rated amp draw close to end of cycle(most likely 12-15 amps). If amp draw is normal then replace thermal breaker. Older compressors have thermal breaker incorporated within winding and may not be easily replaced (but not impossible). If amp draw is higher than rated, check capacitor for proper rating and make sure that the in-tank check valve is not leaking pressure back to pump. Good holidays
At about 130 psi it goes into grunt mode...the
This compressor draws too much power to run efficiently with an extension cord, however, sometimes one does not have a choice. For best results, connect directly to outlet. The problem that you describe could be caused by the extension cord or the check valve leaking air which in turn loads the pump making it difficult for the motor to start. Easy test. With air in tank (+100pse) remove air line at the
checkvalve and test for leak with soapy water. If leaking, replace valve to solve problem of "grunt mode." If no leak and connected directly to plug with same problem, test start/run capacitor for proper valve. It should measure within 95% of printed value. Parts are available at
www.toolpartsdirect.com . Good holidays
We've had our compressor for about a year, and it
Failed capacitor will result in problem as you describe. Remove capacitor and have test. It should read/measure to 95% of stated valve. If cap test good, remove rear cover and manually turn fan. If frozen of hard to turn, drain oil and remove cylinder where it is attached to body and pull it off. From here you will be able to examine the piston, rod and crank. Good holidays.
I pluuged in & it
Are you hooking within 5ft of the outlet? If you are running a cord, then the cord can't keep the amp rating needed to run the compressor. I have one that does the exact thing. Try plugging it in close.
Compressor runs great but pops
It souds like a sticky "non return valve". See the fix below.
The non return valve is the chrome part with a hex cap adjacent to the
upper tank. Remove the cap and make sure the piston moves freely.
Slight resistance is ok, but if it sticks your compressor willl
continually blow off air.
The check valve or "non return valve", as listed in the Hitachi parts
manual is definitely the culprit here, but there is an alternative
solution to replacing the entire valve that was actually suggested to me
by a Hitachi Tech when I stopped by my local service center to pick up a
new non return valve. Obviously, the rubber piston swells and sticks
to the point that the spring under the piston can't over come the
friction. I removed the piston and carefully reduced its diameter, by
hand, with varying grades of wet or dry paper and it now operates
perfectly. If one is uncomfortable with such a repair, at least keep it
in mind for a quick jobsite fix. I have now been running my repaired
compressor for several months without issue.
I started my air compressor for the first time
Running
compressor without out oil generally will damage rod and deposit metal on crank lobe. Metal can be removed using 400 grit sandpaper cut into one inch strips pulling back and fourth untill lobe is clean as new. You will only need to buy the rod(about $20) and one sheet paper. Remove pump/motor from frame, remove two bolts holding cylinder to body and airline and pull up on cylinder to expose piston/rod. Usually the rod will slightly coat the crank with metal and
seize. Remove or work rod off lobe. Clean crank area and add fresh oil. Parts available at
www.toolpartsdirect.com Good luck
Compressor pumps up fine but
When the
unloader leaks as you describe indicates that the check valve is leaking. Easy to check the condition of the valve. Follow air discharge line from compressor head to tank. The brass or steel fitting that threads into tank is the
checkvalve. Remove all air from tank and remove large inspection cap to reveal the teflon seat. If it is cracked or swollen you will need to replace the valve. Parts available at
www.toolpartsdirect.com Good luck
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