Campbell Hausfeld 04 Gallon Twin Stack Compressor HL5502 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check here https://www.manualslib.com/

well it probably wont work then ?!?!?! ask a question next time

We are distributors of all plastic materials, including complete fabrication of plastic parts, components and assembles like Acrylic sheets, polycarbonate sheet and UHMW.1)Turn off your compressor or disconnect the power. 2)Remove the connector tube that sends air to the tank. 3)Remove the head bolts on top of the pump.http://www.plastic-craft.com/novus-plastic-polish-buffing-kit.html

I had this problem with a model WL5062 which looks the same. It turned out to be the capacitor on top of the motor. This capacitor provides phase shift. To check if the capacitor is the problem, disconnect the tube between the compressor and the tank. Then try to start the motor. If the motor runs the capacitor is bad. If the motor still does not run the problem is something else. I got a replacement capacitor from a local motor repair shop. CH does not supply these.

It has a reset switch. It likely overheated and the self protection circuit kicked in. Spraying is hard work for a little compressor. Its just resting. Hit reset in a couple hours and you should be good to go.

This problem usually occurs when the in-tank check valve is leaking air back to the pump and the unloader is not working properly. Follow air discharge line from the compressor to the tank. This line is attached to the check valve (usually brass or chrome). A second smaller line also attaches to the checkvalve and leads to the pressure switch (unloader valve). After filling and shut off, you should hear a discharge of air at the pressure switch. If not, examine valve for possible mis-alignment with contact arm. If air continues to leak from the unloader valve, then checkvalve is leaking. Use universal replacement check valve if possible, check thread size. Parts are on ebay or www.toolpartsdirect.com. Good luck

Hello Holly, either you are using the wrong nails, or the nailer's driver is worn, causing it to skip over the head of the nail. If this unit has a spring loaded "door" on the front of the nose, its possible the spring has lost its strength, allowing the nose to partially open during operation. Without knowing the brand and model of the nailer, I can only speak in generalities, but I would think the best solution is either the first two problems.

Hi, my name is John. Welcome to FixYa. Clean your air filter, try running it with out it in place and see what happens, and let me know. Thanks for choosing FixYa....John

Hi, my name is John. Welcome to FixYa. You will have to replace the pressure switch. Thanks for choosing FixYa...John

hi there!
there are several factor on cycling failure, most common on it is the pressure switch device,checking on this,plug out or switch off main circuit breaker for compressor, disconnect pressure switch if this is a single phase connection,there are two supply wire coming in and two wire coming out on pressure switch.direct connection of compressor motor on power supply to test if it is cycling manually,after direct connection of motor compressor to power supply w/out pressure switch,switch on for 5 to 10 minutes o build a low [pressure then swict off again,then switch on again even there is a low pressure observe if there is cycling motor running if this done replace pressure switch.if still have same problem motor tripping another case not to cycle bring this to electric motor service center.have a nice day dont forget to fix my rate.

It is brand new and it is under warranty. Take it back to the selling dealer for repair or replacement. You paid for the warrant, avail yourself of it.

that would be it also maybe 1 way valve leaking

2 gallons is small to begin with u need to buy an in line pressure adjuster/regulator their a few bucks and can be attached to the paint gun or line and will keep the pressure at ur adjustment the regulator on the tank sets the tank pressure at 50 so when u us it will let it drop down to about 45 than start up to build the pressure up to 50 than shuts off than repeats it self the inline keeps pressure steady even if tanks are at 200 psi

The pressure regulator adjusts the line pressure! The pressure switch is what turns the pump on and off. If you are trying to maintain a line pressure with the switch and not the regulator,,, you are never going to accomplish that. I would have to guess that your compressor normally run's between 95~125 psi on the "switch" so if you adjust your pressure regulator to 110psi it will maintain that till the tank pressure drops below that point. then it will drop as low as 95 until the pump restarts again. If you are trying to get the switch to run up higher than that,, "stop now" as you will only burn the thing up by trying to go higher that it was designed to run at from the factory!

Hello,
Did you wire to 220 using the manual? There are compressors you can wire 110 or 220 but I don't believe I have ever seen any newer ones like yours that this change was recommended.

The link below will take you to the web page that contains several guides for the HL Series and the HL5502 specifically. I did a quick check through them and I didn't find any reference to making this switch between the two voltages.

If you did this using the manual it should also be labeled on the electric motor some where. Usually in the back where the wires go in you will find a small plate. On the backside of this plate, if the motor is capable of being changed, you will find a small reference to the wiring that needs to be changed in order to make the switch.
There should also be similar instructions on the underside of the power switch.

Beyond this I can't say more. If you did this switch without the manual there is no telling what you changed. Which makes it dangerous to give any specific details on how to change it back.
I really hope something here helps. Good luck and please take your time and be careful.

http://www.chpower.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/XItemDocuments?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&findModel=HL5502

The motor should have a reset button. Push the reset and give it a try. If it trips right away or blows the breaker, it's probably a motor problem. If it hums, shut it right off - it could be either a motor problem or a locked up pump.

I suspect the motor, but it will take some looking into.

check for a crimped or damaged line going to the presure switch or it might b the presure switch itself

REVISA POSIBLES FUGAS EN LA VALVULA CHEK PUEDE TAMBIEN ESTAR ABIERTA

Unless you can hear or confirm a leak, your compressor's valve is damaged.

This is two problems. recycling without use means there's a leak: start er up and spray air connections lightly with window cleaner, watch for bubbles to locate leak. Keep moisture away from any electrical areas. Tighten any loose connections until leaks are no longer present. I have had simular problems. I am assuming that you do not have an oiless compressor. First I changed my oil to full synthetic purchased at the auto parts store. Use the same weight called for by the owners manual. Then I try to always use a 20 amp circuit to run my compressor. I can now run off a 20 amp circuit with a 10 guage 50 foot cord.