20 Most Recent Mitsubishi HC1600 Projector Questions & Answers

I have a HC1500 Mitsubishi projector, I want a mainboard ...

www.fixya.com/support/t25341711-hc1500_mitsubishi_projector_want

Dec 27, 2014 - Can anybody help me to find one. Brought one mainboard on ebay, i got HC1600's motherboard, HC1600 has a different color wheel from ...

Light bulb is broke ... :-(

Unfortunately dim image is normally due to a defective lamp assembly. I'd recommend removing the lamp and inspecting its condition. You'll notice black corrosion build up or a bubble is starting to form around the filament of the bulb if it is what's causing the dim image.

Probably a power supply problem. Most likely, there is a power transistor or relay that is not properly powering the light or other equipment. Check the warranty on the device, get a new one if you can. It won't be easy to fix.

green green is power on, normal
then it tries to light the lamp, but it can't so the protection circuit comes activated.
you get red and green blinking

Then it goes to standby, red and off.

so something has happened to the lamp, or lamp ballast power supply.
Take the lamp out and check if all is OK with the 2 terminals in the connector, and the leads to the lamp are intact.

Failing that, I would suspect the ballast lamp power unit

1. ensure the projector is set to video and not another source eg. computer. this will ensure it is receiving to the correct connector.

2.ensure the transmitted signal is able to be received on another device such as tv or dvd recorder. if not suspect cable or settings on transmitter.

3 if a home cinema system is between the tranmitted signal and the projector ensure that it is on and it is set to the right setting.

i hope this helps

menu, setup,lamp settings,lamp reset.

Hi there,
The problem is the powerboard, it tries to charge the components up with electric, then somewere it hits a faulty component (capacitor) and shuts itself down (standby mode/blinking etc)...You coulv'e heard a small "pop" when this first happenend...Maybe the unit started to take longer and longer to "warm up"....Maybe it shuts down after a while, either way the end result (as the cause) is usually the same...the machine fails, you research for hours, you give up and pay a repair man to order a $200/$300 part, just to charge you another$100 orso to install it (20 minutes for a average joe/4 minutes for a pro)...try this procedure on your projector (I wrote it for a lcd/plasma tv repair, so just replace the words "monitor/tv" with "projector" and the diagnoses, diss/assembly and repair stays the same...Here it goes;...........................................
The caps (capacitors) in the powerboard are going out. This is a very common problem in all class and price ranges of modern lcd and plasma tv's/ monitor's. I don't know if this problem has been like this for awhile or it just started, but either way, if the tv takes an abnormal amount of time to "warm" up then it most likely will go out all the way sometime in the (near) future. If you have a tiny bit of will and knowledge ypou can open the unit and get to the print board. Examine this for "popped" capacitors, they will have a buldging top instead of a flat one. Im gonna try to include a pic of them here, if i can get it this time, I've tried bfore lol. But you can google image a "popped" or "bad" capacitor and you would be able, with ease, to diagnose if you have any of these. Usually only one or two. Radioshack sells capacitors (couple anyway) for $1.59 each. MAKE SURE the replacement is of the SAME voltage or HIGHER, or you will be right back replacing those 2. Every capacitor has a negative pole marked with an (-) on the side of the capacitor(by one of the "legs", always puit the negative (-) "leg" of the new capacitor in the same hole in the printboard as where the previous negative (-) "leg" of the capacitor was ( a capacitor with the negative and positive "legs" put in backwards will result in the new piece "popping" as sson as you turn it on!!) make sure the "uf" rating (for example the most common popped capacitor is the 1000 uf) is the same as the one you are replacing. I needed 1000 uf, 105 c and 26v (volt) ratings for the 1 capacitor I needed to replace to fix my LG 19" lcd panel monitor I found by the trash that the light came on off, but it didn't come on. I replaced that capacitor with ; 1000uf, 85 c and 36 v (volts0...It works fine eventhough the volts and the temperature rating (36v and 85c) was not the same as the (26v(volt) and 105c ) capacitor I removed !! Further, I've replaced capacitors that had the celcius rating of 105 with the only ones Radioshack had, namely 85 c(celsius) they have been working great, but I'm not sure about any effect, nor have I heard or read (yet?) about that making an urgent difference. Many threads that I've read people have done the same, so we should be ok (my stuff has been running good for a while longer then most brand new ones!.............(all these ratings ; 'uf ' and 'c' etc are on the side of the capacitor you are replacing and on the side of the ones you are replacing them with)...For all this all you need is the cheapest solder gun u can find (I bought one for $7.99 at Radioshack), a camera (to take pictures as you go to remember how to reassemble the unit) and, once you have your materials, 20 minutes to replace 2 or 3 capacitors and you are good to go...Most monitors and tvs (lcd/plasma) I've seen you have to lay flat on the ground/bed/blanket etc, to work on (screen side down). Usually there are 2 or 3 screws (or a few more) to remove, then you will have to carefully (its comes off easily most times)insert a flat screwdriver inbetween the casing and gently pry it up as you go around the whole frame. Sometimes you have to remove the little washer arouind the cable input orso, just be gentle and you cant go wrong. Once insidet here will be a box with wires running to the sides etc...unplug, gently, these wires and open the box. Inside you will find 2 or 3 circuitboards, check them all for "popped" capacitors, replace, reassemble and plug it in....Have fun becoming an overnight projector technician!

If this helped (or not helped) you, please rate, thank you!

The caps (capacitors) in the powerboard are going out. This is a very common problem in all class and price ranges of modern lcd and plasma tv's/ monitor's. I don't know if this problem has been like this for awhile or it just started, but either way, if the tv takes an abnormal amount of time to "warm" up then it most likely will go out all the way sometime in the (near) future. If you have a tiny bit of will and knowledge ypou can open the unit and get to the print board. Examine this for "popped" capacitors, they will have a buldging top instead of a flat one. Im gonna try to include a pic of them here, if i can get it this time, I've tried bfore lol. But you can google image a "popped" or "bad" capacitor and you would be able, with ease, to diagnose if you have any of these. Usually only one or two. Radioshack sells capacitors (couple anyway) for $1.59 each. MAKE SURE the replacement is of the SAME voltage or HIGHER, or you will be right back replacing those 2. Every capacitor has a negative pole marked with an (-) on the side of the capacitor(by one of the "legs", always puit the negative (-) "leg" of the new capacitor in the same hole in the printboard as where the previous negative (-) "leg" of the capacitor was ( a capacitor with the negative and positive "legs" put in backwards will result in the new piece "popping" as sson as you turn it on!!) make sure the "uf" rating (for example the most common popped capacitor is the 1000 uf) is the same as the one you are replacing. I needed 1000 uf, 105 c and 26v (volt) ratings for the 1 capacitor I needed to replace to fix my LG 19" lcd panel monitor I found by the trash that the light came on off, but it didn't come on. I replaced that capacitor with ; 1000uf, 85 c and 36 v (volts0...It works fine eventhough the volts and the temperature rating (36v and 85c) was not the same as the (26v(volt) and 105c ) capacitor I removed !! Further, I've replaced capacitors that had the celcius rating of 105 with the only ones Radioshack had, namely 85 c(celsius) they have been working great, but I'm not sure about any effect, nor have I heard or read (yet?) about that making an urgent difference. Many threads that I've read people have done the same, so we should be ok (my stuff has been running good for a while longer then most brand new ones!.............(all these ratings ; 'uf ' and 'c' etc are on the side of the capacitor you are replacing and on the side of the ones you are replacing them with)...For all this all you need is the cheapest solder gun u can find (I bought one for $7.99 at Radioshack), a camera (to take pictures as you go to remember how to reassemble the unit) and, once you have your materials, 20 minutes to replace 2 or 3 capacitors and you are good to go...Most monitors and tvs (lcd/plasma) I've seen you have to lay flat on the ground/bed/blanket etc, to work on (screen side down). Usually there are 2 or 3 screws (or a few more) to remove, then you will have to carefully (its comes off easily most times)insert a flat screwdriver inbetween the casing and gently pry it up as you go around the whole frame. Sometimes you have to remove the little washer arouind the cable input orso, just be gentle and you cant go wrong. Once insidet here will be a box with wires running to the sides etc...unplug, gently, these wires and open the box. Inside you will find 2 or 3 circuitboards, check them all for "popped" capacitors, replace, reassemble and plug it in....Have fun becoming an overnight tv mechanic lol!

It sounds like the unit tries to power on and in the procces hits a bad component, wich in turn shuts the system down for protection. It sounds like all the problemts the new lcd/plasma tv's are having 2 nowadays, bad capacitors are being used by the billions and now there are millions of (top dollar) electronics out there that are breaking down bgecouse of these bad caps. If you feel, open the unit till you can see the print boards. Google for an image of a "popped" capacitor(cap), they supposed to have flat tops on them, but when bad, the tops bulgde up/out and /or leak a tiny amount of fluid. Replace the popped ones (prob just 1) with one from Radioshack orso, they MUST be of SAME or HIGHER voltage then the one removed, also makle sure to install(solder) it with the negative(-) in the corresponding hole. Most the caps will be 105 temperature but Radioshack only has 85, theyve been fine for my monitors and tvs. The actual fix could be just 20 min at a $3 cost, a repair man charges around 200/300 for a new powerboard...Hope this helps some..if you decide to do it yourself, take pictures as to remember how to reassemble it and watch a video or 2 on Youtube on how to replace capacitors..I m pretty sure this is your problem!...Good luck...Ps bad caps(capacitors) can couse many many different symptoms ie; sound, picture. on off problems, only sound, only picture etc...

Hi there, this is what I've posted somewhere else too, it was to help with a lcd/plasma tv that wouldnt power on etc. This very much also applies to the problem you are having with your projector. This could save you a few hundred dollars, and if this doesn't help or you can't find any "popped " capacitors, then you are not out anything and you still have the oppertunity to call a professional...I hope this could help you!...
The caps (capacitors) in the powerboard are going out. This is a very common problem in all class and price ranges of modern lcd and plasma tv's/ monitor's. I don't know if this problem has been like this for awhile or it just started, but either way, if the tv takes an abnormal amount of time to "warm" up then it most likely will go out all the way sometime in the (near) future. If you have a tiny bit of will and knowledge ypou can open the unit and get to the print board. Examine this for "popped" capacitors, they will have a buldging top instead of a flat one. Im gonna try to include a pic of them here, if i can get it this time, I've tried bfore lol. But you can google image a "popped" or "bad" capacitor and you would be able, with ease, to diagnose if you have any of these. Usually only one or two. Radioshack sells capacitors (couple anyway) for $1.59 each. MAKE SURE the replacement is of the SAME voltage or HIGHER, or you will be right back replacing those 2. Every capacitor has a negative pole marked with an (-) on the side of the capacitor(by one of the "legs", always puit the negative (-) "leg" of the new capacitor in the same hole in the printboard as where the previous negative (-) "leg" of the capacitor was ( a capacitor with the negative and positive "legs" put in backwards will result in the new piece "popping" as sson as you turn it on!!) make sure the "uf" rating (for example the most common popped capacitor is the 1000 uf) is the same as the one you are replacing. I needed 1000 uf, 105 c and 26v (volt) ratings for the 1 capacitor I needed to replace to fix my LG 19" lcd panel monitor I found by the trash that the light came on off, but it didn't come on. I replaced that capacitor with ; 1000uf, 85 c and 36 v (volts0...It works fine eventhough the volts and the temperature rating (36v and 85c) was not the same as the (26v(volt) and 105c ) capacitor I removed !! Further, I've replaced capacitors that had the celcius rating of 105 with the only ones Radioshack had, namely 85 c(celsius) they have been working great, but I'm not sure about any effect, nor have I heard or read (yet?) about that making an urgent difference. Many threads that I've read people have done the same, so we should be ok (my stuff has been running good for a while longer then most brand new ones!.............(all these ratings ; 'uf ' and 'c' etc are on the side of the capacitor you are replacing and on the side of the ones you are replacing them with)...For all this all you need is the cheapest solder gun u can find (I bought one for $7.99 at Radioshack), a camera (to take pictures as you go to remember how to reassemble the unit) and, once you have your materials, 20 minutes to replace 2 or 3 capacitors and you are good to go...Most monitors and tvs (lcd/plasma) I've seen you have to lay flat on the ground/bed/blanket etc, to work on (screen side down). Usually there are 2 or 3 screws (or a few more) to remove, then you will have to carefully (its comes off easily most times)insert a flat screwdriver inbetween the casing and gently pry it up as you go around the whole frame. Sometimes you have to remove the little washer arouind the cable input orso, just be gentle and you cant go wrong. Once insidet here will be a box with wires running to the sides etc...unplug, gently, these wires and open the box. Inside you will find 2 or 3 circuitboards, check them all for "popped" capacitors, replace, reassemble and plug it in....Have fun becoming an overnight tv mechanic lol!...( a projector repair man in this case :D)

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. From what you have described it seems that the issue is with the power supply unit of the projector as its shutting down to protect the rest of the unit from further damage, may be from over voltage and/or current. If you have electrical expertise then you can open the unit and check for the Power Supply Circuitry to find the reason behind shutdown and click sound.


Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

After replacing the Lamp (Important):
• Unless these three buttons are pressed at the same time, the lamp operation time isn’t reset.
• Make sure that the STATUS indicator blinks twice and the lamp operation time is reset successfully.
• The projector doesn’t turn on if the lamp cover isn’t attached securely.
• Be sure to reset the lamp operation time whenever you replace the lamp.
• Do not reset the lamp operation time unless you replace the lamp.
• The lamp is fragile. If it is broken, be careful not to cut yourself with glass fragments.
• Contact your dealer for a new lamp.
• This projector uses a lamp that contains mercury. Disposal of the lamp or the projector with the lamp may be regulated due to environmental considerations. For disposal or recycling information, please contact your local authorities or the Electronic Industries Alliance: www.eiae.org. (For the U.S. only.)

To solve your problem:
When the power button is on red, and status is blinking green:

• After the STATUS indicator stops blinking, press the POWER button.
• If you unplug the power cord while the fan is rotating, the lamp may not turn on about one minute when you plug the power cord next time.
• The lamp can't turn on again for one minute after it goes out.
• Press the POWER button several times.