For goodness sakes do NOT replace the fuse... doing so causes more damage inside. Likely one of the power amps has shorted and may have damaged the power supply as well. Also please read my tip on Fixya regarding a HAZARD with channel A if you use 1/4 inch plugs with the speaker cables. Essentially the sleeve of the channel A plug is the hot, and not the tip. Ground the sleeve of the plug and you can blow the channel A amp. YOU WILL NEED TO TAKE THE UNIT IN FOR REPAIR... THIS IS NOT A DIY REPAIR!!!!
This problem generally occur when there is loose connectionbetween control board (PC board) and connectors of different parts. You need tocheck thoroughly for any kind of loose connection and check the connectors.
It is aproblem of short-circuit. As per your question it seems that you have alreadychanged fuse one or more than one times.
In that case first check if there any kind of looseconnection, then check the voltage - if the machine receives correct voltage. Ifall seems ok, then you need to replace the PC board (main board).
Hope this will help you. Good Luck.
Sorry, this device does NOT have a footswitch input to control the effects processor. I would suggest using an external effects unit that does have a foot switch input using the FX send and Aux returns of this unit.
Make sure that BOTH the FX gain at each channel you want the FX on AND the "FX to Main" gain are turned up. Also when you select an effect push in the selection knob to activate the selection.
This is a common problem with digital recording. Simply put, it takes some time to convert analog (audio) to digital and then more time to convert it back. So, your playback track goes through conversion and introduces some delay. You don't hear this because you have no zero reference. Your recorded sound goes through the A/D converter and also incurs some delay. When you play them back together, you hear the difference in time from one track to another. Most pro recording programs have some method to minimize or cancel the delay like slipping the tracks so they all start together. Pro Tools just introduced a version that automatically does this. They have always had what it called "low latency" monitoring which attempts to keep the "shortest" digital/analog path so overdubs are close enough that we don't hear any issues.
So, since you talk about the mixer but not the recording program, I can't tell you specifics but I'd look into the recording program for time alignment settings and options. If you have a manual for the recording program, try to look up latency.
Figure 3.1 in your user manual has everything you need to know.
You would need 4 cables with RCA plugs at the 1202 end and whatever your soundblaster interface takes at its end to handle STEREO signals to and from the unit.
Almost any type of mic will work, and the choice of mic depends on what you are using it for and how much you have budgeted for. If you are in a studio without monitor, then one typically uses condenser mics AND for those you turn on the "phantom" power on this mixer. If you have speakers tied to this or where the mic can "hear" the speakers you likely cannot use condenser mics as they will cause feedback.
David,
I dont like to be the bearer of bad news, but Behringer dissolved its service/repair center years ago. In my opinion, this indicates little faith in the profitability of servicing Behringer products. If the manufacturer wont even repair their own products, I wouldn't buy or use that brand if I had a choice. Their products are good, WHEN THEY WORK. They keep their prices low by using inexpensive, disposable quality components. Most of their products aren't worth repairing.
Here are a few options to find your power supply. Try Rogue music in New York, NY. Here is the web address.
www.roguemusic.com Here is another resource. DBM pro Audio is an authorized Behringer Repair Center. They are also in New York. They will be able to tell you if your part is available from Behringer. I'm very sorry to inform you of the inferiority of Behringer products. I think the truth, though it hurts sometimes, is the best teacher. P.S. if you ever visit DBM... next to the elevator, outside DBM's office is a one yard dumpster, it is always brimming with the carcasses of unrepairable Behringer mixing consoles. Remember, when buying electronics, you get what you pay for...cheap price = cheap components (and usually headaches down the line)Good luck! I wish you success on finding your power supply. Michael Mittelsdorf www.dbmproaudio.com See my profile for my qualifications.DBM does all my electronics repair.
You will need an oscilloscope and a good grounding in electronic servicing to attempt a repair.
But, check the signal routing. Refer to the user manual.
It sounds like you're experiencing a couple of issues with your Behringer Xenyx 1204FX mixer. Let's address each of these problems separately:
DSP Display Not Illuminating: The fact that the DSP display works when you press down and turn the knob suggests that the issue might be related to the display itself or its connection. Here are a few steps you can take to troubleshoot the problem:
Check Power Source: Ensure that the mixer is receiving proper power and is turned on. Sometimes display issues can be caused by power-related problems.
Connection: Make sure the ribbon cable or connector that connects the display to the circuit board is properly seated. A loose connection could be causing the display to not illuminate.
Faulty Display: If none of the above steps work, there might be a problem with the display itself. You may need to contact Behringer support or a professional technician to get the display repaired or replaced.
AUX 1 Send Not Working: If the AUX 1 send is not working as expected, there could be several reasons for this:
Routing Settings: Make sure that the AUX 1 send is properly routed to the desired destination. Check the routing options on the mixer to ensure that the signal is being sent to the correct output or destination.
Level Controls: Verify that the level controls for AUX 1 are set correctly. Make sure that the AUX 1 knob for the specific channel you're working with is turned up.
Effects/Processing: If you're trying to send a signal with effects applied, check if the effects are set up correctly. Sometimes, an incorrect effect or routing setting can affect the AUX send.
Cable and Connections: Ensure that the cables connecting the AUX 1 send to external devices (such as monitors or effects units) are functioning properly and securely connected.
AUX Master Level: Confirm that the AUX 1 master level (usually located on the main output section of the mixer) is turned up to an appropriate level.
If you've gone through these troubleshooting steps and the issues still persist, it might be a good idea to consult the user manual for your Behringer Xenyx 1204FX mixer for further guidance. If the problems continue, you may need to reach out to Behringer support or consider seeking assistance from a professional audio technician or repair service.
Hello Geoff, try using an external processor and check that it works well, if so, the problem is that you have the Jack connectors of Effect sending and those of Return of Effects, dirty
Apply a couple of drops of oil, type WD40, to a Plug connector and insert and remove them repeatedly in each connector Jack for sending and returning effects
I hope you can solve the problem, comment the results
Greetings Franco Dosil
Hola Geoff, prueba usando un procesador externo y comprueba que funcione bien, si es asi, el problema es que tienes los conectores Jack de envio de Efecto y los de Retorno de Efectos, sucios
Aplicale en un conector Plug un par de gotas de aceite, tipo WD40 y entralos y sacalos repetidamente en cada conector Jack de envio y retorno de efectos
Espero puedas solucionar el problema, comenta los resultados
Saludos Franco Dosil
https://media.music-group.com/media/PLM/data/docs/P0A8M/PMP1680S_PMP980S_PMP960M_M_EN.pdfhttps://c3.zzounds.com/media/PMP1680S_P0A8M_OI_EN_ES_FR-df44b2314272dfc61a7cabe5bb88ecce.pdf
Check all the wiring connections on the speaker. Check the plug in points for the cables are not loose in the body of the speaker or the connector plugs themselves are not loose in the actual plug sockets.
Next you will need to get inside the speaker body to check the connections and soldered joints. Take a good look at the back of the cable plug sockets and to the back of the actual speaker cone connections. Check each wire at Both ends for damage. No sound at all suggests the issue might be at the 'Input' where the cable plugs into the back of the speaker body.
