20 Most Recent Viking 24 in. Professional Series VUD141 (Ultra-Premium) Built-in Dishwasher - Page 4 Questions & Answers

It probebly suds up and leaked out the front. when the sensor detects water under the machine it will shut down. you need to remove the bottom pannel then use a shop vac to clean the water or a fan to evaporate it. it may suds up again after it starts. remember cold water wil not suds. so you may need to dump pales of cold water into it then pump it out. good luck!
Eric If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dude_653d05454b389bba

Hi,
If the water is not draining there are a few things to check.
Is the hose to the drain free of dbris and not kinked?
Is there food build up in the screen or in the pump?
If your dishwasher has a diverter to drain it, is that working?

You can read more about this problem from this tip

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4078724-dishwasher_problems_water_will_not_drain

Heatman101

It may be in "delime mode" check the manual.

If not the timer is likely at fault.

these units have a either rubber or brass water pump impeller. empty machine and turn upside down. follow hose until you discover where the pump is and take it apart. you can then get pump part at any small appliance store.

THERE IS A LITTLE FLOAT IN THE BOTTOM OF THE DISHWASHER THAT DETERMINES THE WATER LEVEL. mAKE SURE THAT IS FREE TO MOVE,RESET THE DISHWASHER TO THE BEGINNING AND START

Hi

Thanks for using FixYa.First, make sure that the unit is getting power to the cord. Next, take the kickplate off below the door. There is a silver box with wire connections inside it's about 3" x 3". Remove the cover and look at the wire connections. This is where your cord connects in with your dishwasher. If the connections check good and they're not melted or shorted then you probably have a bad control board.

A device may cease to function or operate sporadically if the electrical cord is damaged. Inspect the cord for any of the following damage.

• Is the wire shielding pulling away from the plug?

• Is the cord secure where it connects to the device?

• Are there black smudges or burn marks on the outlet, cord or anywhere the cord comes in contact?

• Are there cracks in the shielding or exposed wire?

• Has the cord been pinched or bent so that the wire inside may have broken?

• If the answer to any of these questions is "yes", then the cord should be replaced.

Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee

you replace both bake ignitors?? sorry I forgot you had a viking with two bake ignitors... to check voltage you will have to remove the wire nuts at from the two wires that go from the ignitors to the controls... touch the meter probes to the metal wire one to each wire and turn the bake on ... be sure not to touch it with you fingers it should have 120 volts

Main dishwasher motor needs to be replaced.

Maybe . . . remove the lower rack and invert it. Look for cracked or missing plastic coating, exposed, rusted & possibly "swollen" inner steel rod/wire. If found, remove the upper rack and look for more of the same. What you think is "soap scum" is probably rust and other iron compounds leached by the dish soap out of the rusted steel onto the dishes and the dishwasher interior. The following worked for me . . .

To clean the interior (with both racks removed), set to "No Heat" dry, then "Pot & Pan" wash and allow to fill. Open door, dump in a bottle of "Lime A-Way", close & latch door and allow to complete cycle. This should remove most rust and iron-sulphate deposits from interior. If not, scrub them with Lime A-Way and a ScotchBrite pad, then cycle again.

Racks must be replaced (Viking are very expensive, Asko, Bosch, or other lower racks may fit: check your neighbors' racks for fit), upper rack must be Viking unless you can exact-match the Asko or Bosch equivalent.

Possible fix: remove the loose plastic coating and flaking rust with a knife, ruff plastic coating with ScotchBrite, clean with rubbing alcohol, then treat metal/rust with "rust converter" (hardware or home imp store), wash with soapy water, rinse, then clean with rubbing alcohol, dry fully, coat with "high temp" (orange or yellow) silicone sealant (auto part store), covering exposed metal and a half inch or so over the plastic coating. Let set for a day or two.

A trip through the dishwasher for all your stained stainless, glasses and non-metallic coated or non-metallic decorated dishes with Lime A-Way as above (on new or "rebuilt" racks) should get the metallic scum and rust off them.

Is the drain hose clogged or kinked? Or the knockout for your disposer inlet not knocked out?

you may have a defective water level switch, this is located on the back of the well, access from the rear of the unit. It black with an orange sticker, from the rear it is slightly to the right of the well, but not as far round as the drain pump.

Hello. I can help you. Since you already checked out the power, skip that step and look at the latch.

If your dishwasher doesn't work at all, check these:

Power from the house
Door switch
Wiring
Timer or selector switch
Power from the house Is there power getting to the dishwasher? This can be difficult to test, because dishwashers are usually wired directly to an electrical circuit, rather than plugged into the wall. But at least check for a blown fuse or a tripped circuit breaker.

Door switch The door switch is important because, if it's defective, the dishwasher won't work at all. To reach it, you need to remove the control panel cover, or sometimes the interior liner of the door. If it's defective, you need to completely replace it.

Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dishwasher, burns and breaks the connection. If that's the problem, the wires must be repaired/replaced as necessary. If that's not the problem, check the wiring to the door switch, the wiring between the door and the lower part of the dishwasher, and the wiring to the timer. Repair any broken, burned, brittle, or defective wiring, using the proper appliance-grade wire and connectors.

Timer or selector switch Although it's uncommon, the timer or the selector switch may be defective. If so, you need to replace the defective part, because neither of these can be repaired.

The unit should be installed with a high loop in the drain line at the rear of the unit. If this is not in place it can cause the drain water to run back into the unit. If there is a partial blockage it could result in incomplete drain. Try disconnecting the drain line below the sink and run the unit to drain into a bucket see how it drains. would be a sign as to how free your drain line is.

It could also have defective drain pump

There is a device called the Water Div valve which directs the water to the arms, this would appear to be defective

it could just be your supply lines are not big enought

I dont usually work on viking as not very many people have them however if it says to contact a repair man then most likely the unit would have to be uninstalled pulled out and the bulb accessed from the back.. i would contact a repair man because if something breaks then they are obligated to repair it.

Here is a link. Sears.com as almost any part for anything including diagrams. The pricing on the part seems WAY out of range. Usually dispensers cost around $60.00 At least you can find the p/n and google around for it on some other sites. I can't imagine it's that much.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/showPart.pd?partNumber=PD150001&productGroupId=0022&supplierId=425&brandId=x&documentId=10057058&keySuffixId=NA&modelNumber=x&keyId=000018&pageId=00002&productTypeId=x&searchModelNumber=VUD141&subCompDesc=Door&brandDesc=VIKING%20RANGE%20CORP.&modelDesc=UNDERCOUNTER-DISHWASHER&backToLink=Return%20to%20part%20list

make sure you have 120 volts at the water valve when you know the unit is calling for water. if you have 120 volts replace the water valve