20 Most Recent Bunn 37600.0000 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

There is a ready light (green but sometimes red) that will go on and off as the brewer heats up. It will periodically turn off when re-heating but should light when ready. This is normal. * Bunn have red rocker switches that are sometimes lit when in use. Some do flicker but still work. Call for service if not. * Rocker (RED) switches should have a definite click sound from the switch. these are usually the warmer plate or on/off switches. Some may flicker but you can check the warmer plate if it's working. Ask the vendor to change it the next time they come by as it still works but annoying. * The black rockers (unlit) should snap to all EXCEPT the brew switch which tends to be mushy with a spring back. The only way to know if it works is the plate gets warm. * Check the outlet if any other machine shows intermittent power. Some places overload the outlet and trip the breaker or GFRI so frequently most people unknowing think the power blacks out all night but really someone just reset the breaker. Have maintenance move the brewer on another outlet (and breaker) or have the breaker checked as it may be worn. * Call your vendor anyway as there may be an electrical short or loose wire inside the brewer. Many times I've found the warmer plate wires burnt or fell off the terminals. Aloha, ukeboy57

VPS are pour over brewers. Like the 12 cup brewers you find at home, they need to be filled with 12 cups of water (a full pot), heated and then peculated over the coffee grounds and collected in a decanter. BUT there is one main difference! The VPR and similar COMMERCIAL coffee machines are quick brewers. They usually have a pre-heated pot of water stored inside the machine. * VPR's and similar machines REQUIRE a pre-fill and heating period prior to brewing. This means it's sitting on a level table and filled with water until water sprays from the brew head. At this point the unit is plugged in and the heater is turned on. Brewer will pre-heat the water (there may be some water discharge from brew head as the water expands). Ready light will come on in about 15 mins. * To Brew; Place coffee grounds in filter, place in funnel and brew head, clean empty decanter under funnel, slowly pour one full decanter of water (cold or hot) into brew tray. Do not overflow tray. Allow water level to sink before adding more water. Only fill with one pot as an equal amount will come out the brew head and funnel. * You can test the VPR by following the Pre-fill instructions I've listed earlier. If the brewer heats up and does not continuously boil (shorted condition) then try a brew. If it works then your okay. Otherwise the unit will need service for a blown high limit or bad heater element. * Call your coffee vendor anyway. Many coffee vendors will service your brewer of even replace it as long as you buy coffee from them. Ask around. Aloha, ukeboy57

Don't know the model but here are things to check prior to calling your vendor for service: * Plugged in? No lights? Check if GFRI outlet is tripped out. * Is it turned on and ready light lit? Some (CWTF's etc.) have a green or read ready lamp that lights up when the brewer is hot and ready to brew. * No Ready light after 15-20 mins of being plugged in? Check the back of unit for a toggle switch (or rocker switch). Check if it's on. Some units may say "Vacation". It should be on normal or brew. * Brewing works but not hot. Was the ready light on when you started the brew? You have to wait till it's lit. Still not hot? Then call for service. The heater, High limit, Thermal fuse,Thermostat needs to be checked. * If this is a new unit then be sure to turn on the thermostat as it comes from the MFR in the off position. * Final, Call your vendor to be safe. Aloha, ukeboy57

VPS/VPR are pour over brewers. Like the 12 cup brewers you find at home, they need to be filled with 12 cups of water (a full pot), heated and then peculated over the coffee grounds and collected in a decanter. BUT there is one main difference! The VPR and similar COMMERCIAL coffee machines are quick brewers. They usually have a pre-heated pot of water stored inside the machine. * VPR's and similar machines REQUIRE a pre-fill and heating period prior to brewing. This means it's sitting on a level table and filled with water until water sprays from the brew head. At this point the unit is plugged in and the heater is turned on (there may be some water discharge from brew head as the water expands). Ready light will come on in about 15 mins. * To Brew; Place coffee grounds in filter, place in funnel and brew head, clean empty decanter under funnel, slowly pour one full decanter of water (cold or hot) into brew tray. Do not overflow tray. Allow water level to sink before adding more water. Only fill with one pot as an equal amount will come out the brew head and funnel. * Make sure the decanters are all the same size. do not mix a 12 cup pot with a 10 cup pot. One will over fill and the other will under fill. Make sure they match (in cup volume) FYI; Thermo Air pump pots are usually bigger than one pot. Typical filling only to 3/4th of the container. (I think most are in 2.5 to 3 liter sizes) * If your not getting a full pot then the brewer was partially empty. The second brew (if done within the next hour) should come out full. * If your still not getting a full pot then the water is leaking or is boiling off. Does it always steam from the top? Thermostat is shorted. Unplug the brewer and call vendor for service. * Final; If your unplugging when not in use. Then follow the Pre-heat instructions mentioned above prior to plugging the brewer back in. If the tank has been emptied at night or dried up after an idle week. Then there is a chance you may over heat and blow the thermal fuse. Or at best have a half pot short brew as the water dried up. * Note leaving the brewer plugged in without brewing daily is not a good idea. The water evaporates and eventually drys out the pot. Takes about 1-2 weeks but it does blow the fuse(s) and the unit will need service. * Final; Follow the Bunn set up and care instructions (manuals from Bunn.com for down loading. *FREE*) Aloha, ukeboy57

Okay, I'm NOT going to ask how you turn the burrs. * The starter capacitor is bad or disconnected. * you can download the Bunn manual which has the wiring diagram on the back pages. This should be a FREE download. AVOID using the word "manual" as it will re-direct you to scam sites that charge for free stuff. * I know following the wires is a bit tricky.. Especially on the G9-2 with everything doubled. Take your time or seek help from a tech or your vendor. * The capacitor is round and usually attached to the motor like a 'hump' on the side or near the top. If you didn't take it apart then one of the wires in the switching side may be miss wired or loose. Check both for loose and correct wired. Careful around the capacitor as it may still have a charge! Aloha, ukeboy57 P.S. The capacitor is used to kick start the motor with it's heavy burr plates. Oh, and if your still having problems with low power. Check the motor for burnt smell as you may have overheated and fried the motor. They usually have thermal resets, but if you kept forcing the reset to keep grinding then the motor is defiantly burnt out.

Okay no model given, * Pour over brewers only leak if over filled (more than a pot). If it leaks just sitting there then there is a hole in the tank. Call for service or replace. * Commercial machines like CW, CWTF, Single, Dual, Urns, are plumbed into a water line. Leaks may come from the water line, Tank, or urn. * If the water leak is clear and not hot then it's the water inlet line. * If it's hot then the heater is leaking, * If it's coffee colored then it's the urn where the coffee is being brewed. * In All cases call your vendor for service as this is a hazardous situation. Unplug or turn off the power to the unit. It should be on a large throw switch near any large brewer. Have maintenance turn off the breaker and leave of till the vendor can service. Aloha, ukeboy57

I'm guessing there is a funnel under the grounds discharge port and your not using a bowl to collect the grounds. (some places do this to measure their own amounts to adjust brews.) * There is a square thin metal "chaff plate" at the top of the discharge port. With a flash light look up into the chute. you should see a blackish/blue steel flapper (like a playing card in a bicycle spoke) Do NOT stick your finger up there! Yes, there may be exposed grinding plates that are sharp! * if it's not there or broken (it's steel and very brittle) then it needs to be replaced by a service tech. It's a bit tedious to replace and in a very cramped area. * Grinding generates a lot of static (even in Hawaii with 80% humidity) so expect some splatter or at least grounds clinging to the sides. It will settle after a while. Many places leave the funnel in place with coffee already ground in the funnel so they don't have to wait for the grinder. Aloha, ukeboy57

Don't know the model but here are things to check prior to calling your vendor for service: * Plugged in? No lights? Check if GFRI outlet is tripped out. * Is it turned on and ready light lit? Some (CWTF's etc.) have a green or read ready lamp that lights up when the brewer is hot and ready to brew. * No Ready light after 15-20 mins of being plugged in? Cheuck the back of unit for a toggle switch (or rocker switch). Check if it's on. Some units may say "Vacation". It should be on normal or brew. * Brewing works but not hot. Was the ready light on when you started the brew? You have to wait till it's lit. Still not hot? Then call for service. The heater, High limit, Thermal fuse,Thermostat needs to be checked. * If this is a new unit then be sure to turn on the thermostat as it comes from the MFR in the off position. * Final, Call your vendor to be safe. Aloha, ukeboy57

Sorry this brewer is usually set up for a full pot brew. I have reset this for a small (but not half) pot brew as the customer wanted to use a metal carafe (with their own logo). I also tried once to get it to half pot brew but it can get tricky if you actually brew twice to get a full pot (in the same pot). * there is a siphon action that starts once the boiler tank gets filled to a certain point. From that point it will continue to flow until the boiler is emptied to the level that stops the siphon action and leaves enough water in boiler to reheat for the next brew. Achieving the siphon point may be a larger volume of water for 1/2 a pot but may work for 3/4ths a pot. The 1/2 way mark may be affected by the brewers "level" while placed on a table or sagging in the middle of a weak table. * Usually if you want a smaller brew then go with a smaller brewer. Though there is a hot water tap that will give you 2-4 cups of hot water (it gets tepid after that) which you can use for the "Mug" style brew. But it does get messy.ukeboy57 * Final, If you don't mind a little more than 1/2 pot brews then ask your vendor to adjust the machine for you. Though a reminder NOT the double brew in the same pot as it will overflow. Aloha, ukeboy57

Sounds like water hammer. There is a small (very small) water hammer minimizer built in the Single and Dual brewers. If your looking at the water valve there is a small 1/4" copper tee with one end sticking upward. This usually has air trapped inside and tries to soften the water pressure as the valve open and closes. There are larger ones mounted in the bigger urns like the U-3 brewers. Though it's easier to have the plumber install a larger one at the mains to take care of the whole restaurant. * It is possible to replace the copper water line (to the brewer) with a reinforced flex hose that will take up the initial pressure of water hammer but if you are running high water pressure then there is a danger of the hose bursting. Might be better to go with an armored hose (those used under sinks) * There is one more thing is the water probe is getting too sensitive. Have the tech replace the water level board. He will want to do this as the constant clicking of the water valve will cause it to fail (like in a month or less) * High pressure can cause sloshing in the tank. This creates waves in the tank but normally the water level board will ignore this splashing on the probe. Have the tech check and clean the probe anyway. It may be possible to reduce the flow rate to the brewer (thus the water hammer pressure) by adjusting the valve that supplies the brewer. Be sure to have the Tech label the valve as someone is sure to come along and open it wide again.. Aloha, ukeboy57 PS; double check if the valve is rated for your water source. Hot water supply requires a different valve (it's bigger too.). Most come with the standard cold water supply rated valve. ukeboy57

* tank overfilling. Shock hazard! Unplug. Check warranty. Call vendor for service or replacement. * probably a leaking tank, valve, level probe, have tech check. Aloha, ukeboy57

* Thermostat shorted. Unplug. Check warranty. Call vendor for replacement. Aloha, ukeboy57

* Element or thermal fuse blown. Check for warranty and replace. Call your vendor. Aloha, ukeboy57

Ahh, why? These are really small home units that are not worth the time to fix. It will take an hour to replace to add to the cost of shipping and parts. * you can find Bunn manuals on-line but go directly to Bunn.com don't get side tacked with "manual" as those sites charge you for the download. * If your really curious then most of these small brewers have a single element that are usually coiled to fit the bottom of the tank. Most are like this but you may find a few that are U shaped though they are usually found in metal tanks. the plastic tanks keep the elements small and near the bottom to make sure it does not melt the tank if the water is very low. * The element should be a copper clad tube, sometimes chromed or silvered to give the copper more protection. A used one may be covered with some calcium deposits. Heaver deposits will drop the efficiency and make it harder to remove (thus more labor) Brewers at this level of usage is best if replaced. * There should not be any holes or "exploded", Ripped cuts in tube as it has a heating wire inside with a white powder to keep it centered within the tubing. If water gets inside it shorts to ground and boils without stopping. this will usually short out the tank and blow the thermal fuse. Either way, lots of damage and more parts to replace. * Replacement will require all the washers and new lock nuts with a possible tank replacement if it leaks when you removed the element. As mentioned earlier; lots of labor. * Final; I hope you called your vendor. If still under warranty they will probably just replace the whole unit. Aloha! ukeboy57 PS. Don't feel bad. I'm a retired tech with nothing but time to type this long reply. Yes I've got a whole garage filled with old machines that need fixing. But who's got the time! LOL

* If this is a pour over (VPR, VPS, etc.) then you must pre fill it then pour in one pot of water to get one pot of brewing hot water out of it. * If this has an external tank of water then it must be filled and make sure the float sensor works and pops up to indicate a filled tank. * But most likely this is a CWTF, CW, or larger commercial brewer that has a plumbed in water line. If this is the case then the tank must be pre-filled and heater turned on. usually done by the vendor or installer. It should have been tested and brewed to check water level of brew. Follow the brewing instructions. * Still not working? Call vendor for service. It could be timer, brew switch, water level board, water fill valve,brew valve. all need check and service to replace as needed. Many larger units have high voltages so call the tech to be safe. Aloha, ukboy57

The following is for espresso coffee shots but it applies to all coffee brewer and home brewers as you control the beans and water used: * pour pour, shot, puck, etc. are signs of an improperly prepared espresso. This can be caused by many things but since this is an robotic machine that performs the same time and time again then lets assume for now that the machine is working properly. If the machine is at fault then it will require service from your vendor or directly from the MFR. * Did you change beans? Poor quality beans are usually easy to spot; Lighter color beans, Multi-color, very oily (shiny ok but not dripping like butter), flavored beans (poor quality bean with flavor added). All automatic espresso or cappuccino machines are expected to have Espresso roast with French roast or at least a Dark roast as the basis for any coffee beverage. Lesser roasts; regular, mild, house roast tend to make a poor cup. Clean out all old coffee and replace with a high quality ESPRESSO roast coffee (Lavazza is a good example) Run machine through 3 or more cycles to flush out old beans and oils. It may take 10 or more cycles so be patient. * Did you change water source? Since this is a table top machine in which you fill the water tank. Try to use filtered (bottled ok) water. Do Not use Distilled or 100% pure water as this type of water will eat out the metals from your machine! Some places use a water softener as it tends to be better for the machine long term (years). * Finally; Beans and Water are the two things you can control. If your still having problems then lets look at the machine: Can you reset it to original factory settings? Do so and check results. If it's okay then SLOWLY make your changes one at a time till you get the best result or stop if it gets worst. Note: once set to your liking then DON'T change beans or water as it will change everything. (even a batch of beans can be bad. Stay with a reputable coffee roaster!) * Still got problems? Check with vendor or MFR for service or replacement. Most machines of this type do not have serviceable parts or adjustments. Aloha, ukeboy57

Should be about 8-15 mins depending how cold the water was. Here are the instructions: Aloha! ukeboy57 http://www.bunn.com/sites/default/files/care-and-cleaning/43460_0002d_mycafe_use_care_manual_english_0.pdf

* call vendor for service. Brew timer or water level float needs adjustment. * Make sure your using the correct brew pot for this machine. It's 64 oz decanter if I remember right. Some of the older glass pots are smaller. Especially if it's the roundy one that looks more like a ball. It should hold at least 1 quart of water easily. Ask your vendor for the correct pots (they don''t like you using 'other' brands of coffee if it's printed on the pot. * Long shot but possible the valve was put in backwards. Either way the vendor should replace it. Aloha! ukeboy57

* Most decanters are made of tempered glass and unless cracked it should not leak. * Make sure the two pots you are using (one to pour one to brew) is the same size. Check by filling one then pour into the other. If they don't match then get a matching one. * Most overflowing pots are caused by over filling brewing tank. This can be caused by re-pouring additional water into the brew tank. (automatic brewers may have a leaking water valve - call your vendor for service) * Partial brewing (taking coffee from a brewing pot) and then putting in more water. * Removing the pot BEFORE it stops dripping. It leaves a puddle of coffee on the warmer plate *Over filling the water tank. Most times the extra water will spill out the back. But some may overflow into the basket area then the warmer plate. * Follow the MFR brewing instructions for filling. * All brewers should stop water drips after brewing. If you get a constant drip AFTER brewing then have the brewer checked or replaced. Call your vendor. Aloha, ukeboy57 PS: I've noted that you don't mention the brand nor model of the server you got from Kohls so I'm guessing it might be a dispenser or even a bunn dispenser which is different from a decanter as it has a serving spout. You find these at banquet halls where it's dispensed from a small faucet. You can find similar faucets from bunn.com or most restaurant supply stores as it's a very common item. Amazon.com has them too. the part tat leaks is the rubber boot or worn spring. best to buy the whole faucet and keep the old one for parts as needed. amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=coffee+dispenser+parts+faucet&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Acoffee+dispenser+parts+faucet

Humm, G-3 grinders. Okay what common problems I've come across: * Wrong setting for grind on label. Usually means worn out grinder burrs. But this does not happen often unless you are using it to grind commercial amounts of coffee? It's a retail level grinder meant to be user friendly and simple to use. Say grind a bag of beans once every 10 mins or so even with customers lined up to grind there own. Running a G-3 constantly is usually done by upcoming coffee vendors whom are using it for small flavored bean batches. But expect the burr plates to only last 3 to 6 months. We used to change it every month till the boss bought a bigger pro grinder. (whew!) * Out of calibration (for grind) This usually happens as soon as it's installed. Either the grinder got banged (Dropped?) around or the lock nut was not tighten down. If caught quickly then it's a simple adjustment. Left unchecked will wear out the burrs or crack the plate. * Trips out breaker. This is common at retail stores as it's located in a shelf rack that really does not have the required outlets. Many times there is a brewer(s) connected to the same line. It only trips out when one or both brewers are heating and the grinder is running a very fine grind. * Trips out breaker when grinding espresso or very fine grinds. Worn burrs or slim chance the grinder was miss calibrated (but you would catch this when first installed) * Shocks the customer. Dry climates or heavy air conditioning will build up static electricity at the chute. There usually a small chain attached to the chute to prevent this. Attach a SHORT metal chain or thin cable to the metal case of the grinder and add a metal clip to attach to the coffee bag. Many use a chain and clip just short enough to keep the bag positioned under the chute. Note many coffee bags come with bag clips. Just make sure the clip and chain can't get stuck in the grinder. * Not working. This is usually the on/off switch as it gets beat up the most. There is sometimes a safety micro switch under the chute to sense if there is a bag there. I've found may have been defeated. * No power, check cord, breaker (GFRI) outlet, Plug prongs if broken off or bent. * power but no motor hum. Tripped thermal breaker (usually a red button on side or back. Some models may have it inside on the motor itself. Call for service to check. * Turns on but loud hum (may be hot too). Burrs stuck. This could be from adjusting grinder while grinding beans and adjusting to a fine setting. Grinding finer slows down the beans feeding the burrs. Large settings flood the burrs with a lot of beans. Adjustments are usually done when the grinder hopper is completely empty. If loaded and turned down from coarse to fine grind the beans already in the burrs get crushed and stuck between the plates thus locking them in. It may be possible to clear the hopper and open up the grinder to its coarsest setting to jog out the crushed beans. Otherwise call for service to have the burrs cleared manually. *Finally check with your vendor if your still having problems. Aloha! ukeboy57