20 Most Recent GE JNM1851SMSS Convection/Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

That humming is the Magnetron turning on and off, that is what all MW oven do, it is nothing to worry about.

Make sure that the program controller is working if not check power - step down supply, the pads are responding- if not faulty pads- or the door switches, if the switch contact are not good then it will not trigger the processor to switch on the waveguides. If the lights or fan work without any display or action of program being triggered to start then it can be a possible fault on the main board or the processor. Sometimes insect secretion can short the board and display panel and so the processor can work in such an erratic manner. If so clean, solder and reset the board. Now identify the parts by clicking this link: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/microwave/a/5/141/identifying-microwave-parts.html

If there is no heating please do not switch on unless you have confirmed the fault. It is possible that the Magnetron is faulty, the temperature cut off is faulty or the main capacitor is short. It is also quite possible that insect can get into the oven and create soft spots. When you switch on these will create a short and make the voltage jump and in the long run damage the magnetron. Check this link to know how a microwave works:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/microwave/a/5/1443/how-a-microwave-oven-works.html

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

Cooktop Light/Night Light

On models JVM1850, JNM1851, DVM1850 and

EMO4000, replace the burned-out bulb with a 120 volt,

40-watt incandescent bulb (WB36X10003), available

from your GE supplier.

On models JVM1870, JVM1871, JVM2050 and

JVM3670, replace the burned-out bulb with a 120 volt,

20-watt halogen bulb (WB36X10213), available from

your GE supplier.

To replace the bulb(s), first disconnect the

power at the main fuse or circuit breaker panel

or pull the plug.

Remove the screw at the left edge of the light

cover and push on the right edge of the cover

to open.

Be sure the bulb(s) to be replaced are cool

before removing. After breaking the adhesive

seal, remove the bulb by either gently turning

(for models JVM1850, JNM1851, DVM1850 and

EMO4000) or pulling straight out (for models

JVM1870, JVM1871, JVM2050 and JVM3670).

Replace with the same size and type bulb.

Raise the light shield and replace the screw.
Connect electrical power to the oven.

The actual m# is JNM1851SMSS 01.

The problem most likely is with the turntable motor or coupler. The coupler is the part that the glass plate sits on that is driven by the motor. You will need to gently pry the coupler off and see if it is damaged. To test the motor, find a straw or something hollow that will fit snugly over the motor shaft. Turn on the unit to see if it spins. If it doesn't, then the motor needs to be replaced. You can get it at Sears Parts or other appliance parts websites. To replace the motor, make sure the unit is unplugged before you begin. Remove the bottom base where the motor is located. Remove the motor and install the new one. Re-install the base. Install the coupler on the motor shaft and you should be good to go.It is rare that the controller which turns on the motor goes bad, but it is a possibility. If you feel uncomfortable performing the above instructions, you should call an appliance tech.

I have attached a picture of the coupler as well as a link to your model. The #42 on the drawing is the motor.

Good luck
Don't forget to vote and please leave any comments you wish


http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/GE-Parts/Microwave-Parts/Model-JNM1851SMSS01/0432/0123370/G1010188/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

open the screw and then full out the side and top cover

The problem with your Display of your GE Microwave/Speedcooker is not the Digitron WB27X10856 display board? The flickering and ultimately failure over of the display is due to the WB27X10861 GE microwave control board which is a rebranded (LG 6871W1A417/6871W1A417A board) which GE then sells as a markup. The princple purpose of this board is to convert (i.e. rectify) AC to DC at various voltage levels needed by the rest of the microwave to run their control circuits in the microwave. A portion of the GE microwave is always on so the AC/DC supplly is always on. Overtime the electrolytic capacitors in a section of the board fail or degrade to a point they the DC suppy starts to produce ripples in the DC power supply which results in circuit board failures. These ripples produce deep spikes of voltage of 120 Hz that the other circuits are sensitive too. I just exmined a failed WB27X10861 board and measued the capacitance of each of the seven electroylic capacitors. Of the 7 capacitors, 2 had failed over time. The others 5 have degraded 10 to 15 percent but still within their design spec. The two that failed, C07 - 1000uF 25 V had a measured value of 207uF and the other C08 - 220uF had a measured value of 13uF. There was no visible bloating on either SAMWHA SG capacitor. Nomally, these capacitors are rated at 2000 hour at 85 degree C. 2000 hr is only 83 days, but since the voltage is less and the temperature is probably 40 to 50 degrees inside the capacitor these capacitors may last 10 years. They harder they work the shorter the lifespan. There are two solutions, either purchase a new replacement control board or replace the failed C07 and C08 capacitors within the failed board with better ones. You can easily buy 10,000 hour , 105 degree C rated capacitors for probably 25 cents more than 2,000 hour capacitor. Most people don't have the resouces to repair a board so buying a new board is their only solution. Don't buy a used board on ebay because a used board is probably on the verge of failure.

Take model # to searspartsdirect.com. They typically have manuals in parts listings.

You have a direct short to ground. https://www.fixya.com/support/r29874712-repairing_microwave_ovens ..

No, because it is an Air Fryer and Broiler as well. It would generate too much heat and no where for it it escape. You would need to use it on a counter as described or buy an over the range model.

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No Microwave Oven are just too dangerous. The switches and interlocks have to be correctly aligned for safety. Plus the inside has heart stopping voltage waiting to jump to anyone with a half inch away! https://www.fixya.com/support/r29874712-repairing_microwave_ovens ..

I would not risk it. Your better finding out why there is a burn mark there. The plastic film with the burn mark will be a specific one for microwave ovens. Basic peel and stick plastics could be the wrong type and it could also melt when the microwave gets hot.

I GOT the same issues. Can some one help?