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Makita 12 Volt Cordless Drill/Driver Kit - Page 4 Questions & Answers
I have a NiMH rechargeable battery for my Makita
This happens regular with Makita battery powered tools Try putting the battery in the frezer overnight this remedy worked for me once with a Hitachi battery if not you would be cheeper buying a new drill rather than a new battery.
Chuck removal/cordless driver drills
For chuck removal first remove the chuck retaining screw which is LH thread. If this tool has a high/low selector shift to LOW and if equipped with a clutch shift to the drill only position. Find a bent handle allen wrench about the size of chuck capacity (the larger the better, less flexing) and insert the short portion into the jaws and tighten. Position the chuck on a workbench or block of wood with the longer portion at about a 30 degree angle so you can strike it counter clockwise with a hammer, strike the longer portion and the chuck should loosen (it is standard thread pattern) It might take a couple hits to remove. Chuck installation would be to reverse the above to seat the chuck and reinstall the screw.
How do i remove the chuck from the Makita 12v
There is a left handed screw down at the bottom of the chuck. I believe it is a flathead screw. You need to make sure you are in the lowest gear and turn that screw clockwise. It seems odd, but turning to the right will loosen the chuck screw. Once the chuck screw is removed then you need to remove the chuck from the spindle. Remove the chuck like a regular screw. It has regular threads and should be removed by turning it counterclockwise. Good luck
I have a mikita 12 volt and when I charge it it wont hold charge.
do you have a volt meter toi check the charger voltage? if so then read the voltage out of the charger, it should be 1 or 2 volts higher than the listing 12v would be 13 or 14 volts. if it's working you probally do have a bad battery. if the charger is out then you have a bad charger.
I have a makita dc18sc
Maybe sometimes it is the battery do you have 2 batteries you can check it with if it charges the other then its just the battery .If you have a local industrial distributor in the area usually they can test it for you
Clutch problems
I dont know where you live but there should be a local industrial distributor aroung and they usuall always have a repair service
Drill motor properties
The main thing with cordless/battery (direct current) powered motors is that they have a static magnet instead of field windings. The main rotary part of the motor is still wound in segments but it uses dual magnets for the static outer part of the motor. These magnets have to be aligned properly for the motor to run at optimal performance. If they are too far out it won't runa t all. The magnets are also prone to cacking or breaking if subjected to heavy impacts (ie drill dropped from ladder). The other thing is the amount of time they operate at optimal performance but this is nly really affected by the battery capacity and amount of load the motor has to operate. Alternate current motors with wound field coils are alot more powerfull and abviousley have no time limit, but you would only then be able to operate your robot while it is plugged into a socket. The new lithium ion batteries are a lot longer lasting, and stay at peak performance for longer, but when they start running out they tend to just stop instead of slow down.
Need Front part picture/schematic of makita gearbox 123443-0 DHP482
"Looking for a front part picture or schematic of the Makita gearbox 123443-0 DHP482, specifically the front selector rings? While main gearbox images are widely available, detailed visuals of the front selector rings may require specific technical documentation or contacting Makita directly for assistance."
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