20 Most Recent Woods 201 cu. ft. Upright Freezer V2003RW3 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Hi,
Check out these tips...they can help you figure out whats going wrong...

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3662945-refrigerator_not_cooling_or_fridge_not

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3771673-defrost_refrigerator_defrost_timer


Water Running in Refrigerator from Freezer
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3780310-water_running_in_refrigerator_from

heatman101

Your model number does not show up online for me. Not surprising to me at all. One way to find out is to remove the service panel in the freezer. If you find a heater and a terminator you would know for sure it is a defrost model If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi, The defrost heater may not be working properly (timer stuck, heating element burned out, bad defrost thermostat,etc.). The unit should go into defrost mode about every 6-8 hours typically and last about 30 minutes (depending on model of freezer). During defrost cycles the compressor and fan do not run (don't want to keep cooling while trying to defrost). Once defrost is over, the fan and compressor get power again.
Take care

hello,
The real problem is that the drain which carries the defrost water away from the coils (and down to the external pan underneath where it should evaporate) has become plugged with ice (from having left the door open thereby icing up the coils and the drain). The problem you have now is that the normal defrost cycle was not designed to melt the ice plug that is blocking the drain.

Solution: You have to either (1) if you're handy, you can remove the plastic panel over the coils in the back of the freezer and melt it out with a hair dryer or hot water -- or (2) unplug the unit, leave the doors open and let it melt out by itself. I don't know how long you'd have to wait for (2) to completely melt the ice plug -- I'm guessing at least 24-36 hours to be sure.

I did (1) and it took me about 2 hours to remove the freezer bin and door, remove the main drawer slides, remove the internal drawers and their slides, remove the back inside panel, find the ice plug (lower left side of the drip tray under the evap coils), melt it out with hot water from a baster, verify that the drain was clear, reassemble in reverse order. But it worked. Problem completely solved -- no water since. By the way the drip tray was completely full of ice - right after a defrost cycle had completed -- so this problem will never resolve itself without intervention.

Bear in mind, the whole cycle COULD happen again if the drawer is left open again and the excess ice builds up on the coils again. This is a design flaw in the unit itself. However, I read about a clever solution to prevent a new ice plug forming as a result of the open door. Just loop a length of 10-12 gauge bare copper wire around the defrost heater element and insert the other end of the wire in the drain hole. Heat conducted through the wire during defrost will clear any ice plug that may form.
wish you goodluck,
take care.

Hi,

The symptoms you are describing are typically from a refrigerant (freon) leak. Unfortunately it will be as simple as adding new refrigerant as it will just leak out. The leak will need to be repaired. From my experience with this unit my best guess is that the evaporator coils would need replaced. An average repair cost for this type of repair would be around $400.00.

I hope this helps.

Yes, the fan needs to be running. I can't say for sure since I can't test it, but if you can, test for voltage to the fan wires. If it has voltage, replace the fan.

HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.

Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. WARNING: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.

The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.

Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. this will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.

Next will be the door switch. The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, are controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. if the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well.

This will conclude the most common issue with a under preforming unit. I would advise to check all the above and, if the unit continues to not cool after all the above adjustments are made, i will recommend replacing the cold control device,thermostat and main circuit board.

Concerning the defrost switch:

To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced.

If it is not FROST FREE. empyt it, shut off the thermostat, un-plug from wall and prop door open.8-12hrs and VIOLA it is done. Becareful though you do not want a mess in the floor.

most commercial freezers have a drain to the back of the compressor area where the condensate goes into a pan and is boiled off into the air by a loop of hot gas tubing in the pan or an electric heater in the pan. when it defrosts the ice on the coil melts and the water flows out . if the tubing gets plugged the water flows out of the pan and down into the bottom of the box where it refreezes on start of the next refrigeration cycle. clean and clear drain with a shop vac or air hose where water can flow out of pan under the evaporator coil when it defrosts. if you have a domestic residential freezer , most of these have no defrost and neeed to be shut down and manually defrosted every few years. if you leave the door ajar or it doesn't seal well ice builds up and can accumulate in the bottom as frost etc. it would be mosyt unusual for a residential box to have a defrost clock, drain and all, but possible and same rules apply. find the drain and clear with shop vac .

All question need full 'make model (what it is)', first 3 words. Google make model wiring diagram. Brown or Red is normally power and blue is return. https://www.google.com/search?q=Freezer+with+loose+red+and+blue+cables ..

you do not leave them alone they may have refrigerant flowing through them. look in your owners manual/instructions for more info.

Yes

Question edited for clarity and add CAPS. It seems to be a common occurrence on that model due to bad design. https://www.fixya.com/support/t17110008-norfrost_c6aew_chest_freezer_compressor Norfrost is owned by Ebac. Contact their customer service. https://www.johnogroat-journal.co.uk/news/caithness-freezer-name-lives-on-in-england-170710/ https://www.ebac.com/support/customer-service Another way would be to study the wiring as it is pretty standard. The video may help. https://www.google.com/search?q=freezer+wiring+diagram You may be able to freeze this video to note the wiring, although this only shows the thermostat wiring and is a bit fuzzy. Also an refrigeration appliance technician would know the wiring by heart and take 20 minutes maximum to work it out.

Hey. I dont suppose you figured out where the wires went all all? I've done the same thing ????

Question edited to add maker! All questions need 'make model (what it is) as first three words. That is an overheating fault. Replace the fluff with no fluff. Make sure the condenser coils are free of dust and there is good airflow Or It is low on refrigerant gas and you need a service tech.. ..

The Frigidaire FFC13K2CW1 chest freezer has a capacity of 12.8 cubic feet. More info: https://www.partselect.com/Models/FFC13K2CW1/

Question edited for clarity. Duplicate question deleted. Refresh page to see you question. This is not a make I know. Things like drawers are usually readily available. This link may work better where you are located. https://www.google.com/search?q=BRADA+MF-305+parts Generic Drawer replacements https://www.google.ca/search?q=freezer+drawer+replacement&sca_esv=580628691&tbm=isch&sxsrf=AM9HkKk2I1HuWqUimTZskQkh3tRH3AJ6rA:1699481832834&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiZ0MqXt7WCAxUwL1kFHUrtBG0Q_AUoAnoECAIQBA&biw=1920&bih=919&dpr=1 ..

Is it on Economy Mode? That only chills the bottom area. Check the condenser fins are cleaned of dust. That needs doing every 6 months. Or it needs refrigerant gas. ..