Do you know what design temperature is for that freezer? Some are meant for 0 degrees others for -10 or 15. I would say you are trying to maintain -10 for a food freezer and trying to keep ice cream frozen. Ice cream freezers need to be colder than food freezers. I know it sounds dumb but look it up. Check the door gaskets to see that there is no leakage and the surrounding area should be no higher than 75 degrees, (otherwise it\'ll run all the time). Hope this helps and good luck.
Does unit make temp? Try cleaning the condenser coil. This is located in front of the compressor. Give some more specs and serial number and I'll give you a hand with this.
Question edited for a lot more clarity.
Question moved to True Freezer category.
You need a refrigeration engineer. It sounds like is has a leak and needs topping up with refrigerant gas. Things that also need checking, circulation fan working and that the defrost timer and defrost heater, and electronic thermostat are working correctly. Refrigeration is not a handyman job.
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Your fan it's either defective, Or your unit is frozen up and the fan is stuck in ice. Unplug it defrost it take off the panels and see if the motor's any good .
That is what it is supposed to do. It is called cycling and switches off when the set temperature is reached. It is a commercial freezer, so if the door opened and closed often, that is normal?Commercial freezers and fridges have an item called a 'Clixon' that cuts power in the case of the compressor overheating. When was the last time the fins on the compressor coils were cleaned? Could also be a bad door seal letting cold air escape. When you close a freezer door on a unit like that, it should be really hard to open straight afterward due to the suction. Could be a faulty thermostat. Turn the temperature to the warmest setting and see if it still does it? If it does, you need a new thermostat.I just retired after 52 years in catering.https://www.katom.com/598-T23F.html?gclid=CjwKCAiArbv_BRA8EiwAYGs23PKtEzF60_OMVNpHXBlGjHQNdpp0pDZsu0G0lFLqVy2p4qIybG9n8xoCwEMQAvD_BwE..
The heat at the opening of refrigerator is usually a sign the condenser coils are dirty. Check the condenser coils for a restriction underneath the unit. Dirty condenser coils will cause poor air flow over the coils and compressor. Poor air flow will cause a lot of problems, including overheating the compressor, the refrigerant and the copper lines. This will destroy your sealed system. The coils need cleaning at least once a year, more often if you have pets. I couldn’t determine if your unit has an “energy saver” setting. If so, turn it on. Not all refrigerators have energy saver. This is on units with emilion heaters in the wall around the door gaskets. The heaters are to eliminate condensation around the door. Turning ON energy saver turns OFF those heaters. You should notice a change quickly if it’s the heater causing the heat, that is, if you have that model. Cleaning the coils will need a day or two to allow things to cool down before you notice a change in the heat around the door.
I am assuming you are relating to the evaporator fan(s) not running. If this is the case, some units have a 'Klixon" type thermostat in the evaporator so when the evaporator coil temp reaches a predetermined temperature, the fans come on. You may have a bad "Fan Delay" (Klixon) or the coil is not reaching the proper temp to activate it to turn on the fans. I would check the wiring diagram on the unit for this part to see if this unit has it in the system.
http://download.partstown.com/is-bin/intershop.static/WFS/Reedy-PartsTown-Site/-/en_US/manuals/TRUE-T-23_iom.pdf. Check out this manual. has instructions.
http://download.partstown.com/is-bin/intershop.static/WFS/Reedy-PartsTown-Site/-/en_US/manuals/TRUE-T-23_iom.pdf. check out this manual. has instruction for lots of what you want.
if seals are in good condition
no sizable water leaks from cabinet
one should suspect the thermostat is no shutting off compressor
test or replace thermostat