Master Bilt 95 cu. ft. Commercial Freezer CL-5-75 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I would seriously consider replacing it, it is probably worn beyond repair.
Good Luck.
Gilshultz

Take and close down the suction valve on the compressor and then try to start the unit after you recover some of the refrigerant out of the compressor the reason that it is acting like that is probebly because the compressor is full of refrigerant and slugging the valves. also verify the you have all the lesgs of power going to the unit. let me know how this turned out.

Hold Mode/set and Manual/Verify for 3 seconds this is a dummy alarm for cleaning the coils routinely

Hello, here is some places to get parts. Just copy and paste links in your browser.

www.master-bilt.com/

www.partstown.com/Freezer

www.partstown.com/masterbilt/part

www.appliancepartspros.com/Freezer-Part

www.appliancezone.com


I hope this helps, mike from fixya

DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.

There is no switch along the lines of like a button or light switch. There is a thermo switch that opens and closes from the temp. If the compressor is running then its either a blockage or or leak in freon. You could use an amp meter and check the draw. Look on the manufacture sticker for the running amps. If your getting much more the double then it blocked. If the compressor is running and your amps are below 1amp its a leak and needs to be addressed by someone EPA certified.
Good luck,
Shawn

All question need full 'make model (what it is)', first 3 words. Google make model wiring diagram. Brown or Red is normally power and blue is return. https://www.google.com/search?q=Freezer+with+loose+red+and+blue+cables ..

you do not leave them alone they may have refrigerant flowing through them. look in your owners manual/instructions for more info.

Yes

Hey. I dont suppose you figured out where the wires went all all? I've done the same thing ????

Question edited for clarity and add CAPS. It seems to be a common occurrence on that model due to bad design. https://www.fixya.com/support/t17110008-norfrost_c6aew_chest_freezer_compressor Norfrost is owned by Ebac. Contact their customer service. https://www.johnogroat-journal.co.uk/news/caithness-freezer-name-lives-on-in-england-170710/ https://www.ebac.com/support/customer-service Another way would be to study the wiring as it is pretty standard. The video may help. https://www.google.com/search?q=freezer+wiring+diagram You may be able to freeze this video to note the wiring, although this only shows the thermostat wiring and is a bit fuzzy. Also an refrigeration appliance technician would know the wiring by heart and take 20 minutes maximum to work it out.

Question edited to add maker! All questions need 'make model (what it is) as first three words. That is an overheating fault. Replace the fluff with no fluff. Make sure the condenser coils are free of dust and there is good airflow Or It is low on refrigerant gas and you need a service tech.. ..

The Frigidaire FFC13K2CW1 chest freezer has a capacity of 12.8 cubic feet. More info: https://www.partselect.com/Models/FFC13K2CW1/

Question edited for clarity. Duplicate question deleted. Refresh page to see you question. This is not a make I know. Things like drawers are usually readily available. This link may work better where you are located. https://www.google.com/search?q=BRADA+MF-305+parts Generic Drawer replacements https://www.google.ca/search?q=freezer+drawer+replacement&sca_esv=580628691&tbm=isch&sxsrf=AM9HkKk2I1HuWqUimTZskQkh3tRH3AJ6rA:1699481832834&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiZ0MqXt7WCAxUwL1kFHUrtBG0Q_AUoAnoECAIQBA&biw=1920&bih=919&dpr=1 ..

Is it on Economy Mode? That only chills the bottom area. Check the condenser fins are cleaned of dust. That needs doing every 6 months. Or it needs refrigerant gas. ..

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Star Computers. Greetings from Toronto! It is made by Midea and sold to Walmart as a batch, "make us 10,000 at $100 each. We will sell for $280 until they are gone". All the retailers are out of stock including Amazon and Wilson's Home Store. Choose another make and model, bottom of this page. Home Depot, Leon's or The Brick are a good bet for Freezers. https://www.dontwasteyourmoney.com/products/arctic-king-arc070s0arbb-7-cubic-feet-chest-deep-freezer/

There is normally a drain plug on the lower rear or sides. You probably have leaking door gasket. https://www.google.com/search?q=norfrost+aura+chest+freezer+drain+hole+location ..

There appears to have been a serious electrical problem in the freezer, possibly involving a short circuit or a broken part.it's best to contact a professional appliance repair technician

If your Traulsen 31300 freezer is cooling down to 28°F but not going below that temperature, and the compressor runs continuously except during the defrost cycle, there are a few tests you can perform to help diagnose the issue before considering replacing the expansion valve. Here are some steps to follow: 1. Check Airflow: Ensure that the airflow inside the freezer is not obstructed by any items or ice buildup. Verify that the evaporator coil is clean and not blocked. Poor airflow can lead to inadequate cooling. 2. Temperature Control Setting: Confirm that the temperature control setting on the freezer is correctly set to the desired temperature. Make sure it is not accidentally set too high or too low. 3. Condenser Coil Cleaning: Clean the condenser coils located either at the back or underneath the unit. Dust and debris accumulation on the coils can reduce cooling efficiency. Use a soft brush or vacuum cleaner to remove any dirt or debris. 4. Condenser Fan Operation: Check if the condenser fan is running properly. The condenser fan helps dissipate heat from the system. Ensure it is spinning freely and not obstructed. If it's not working, it may need to be replaced. 5. Check for Refrigerant Leaks: Perform a thorough inspection of the refrigerant lines and connections for any signs of leaks, such as oil spots, bubbles, or hissing sounds. If a refrigerant leak is suspected, it could be affecting the cooling performance, and repairing the leak and recharging the system may be necessary. 6. Pressure and Temperature Readings: To determine if the expansion valve is the culprit, you may need to take pressure and temperature readings at different points in the refrigeration system using specialized equipment. These readings can help identify any irregularities or inefficiencies in the system. 7. Consult with a Professional: If you're unsure about performing these tests or interpreting the results, it is recommended to seek assistance from a professional refrigeration technician. They will have the expertise and necessary tools to accurately diagnose the issue and provide appropriate solutions. By conducting these tests and inspections, you can gather more information to make an informed decision about replacing the expansion valve or pursuing other potential causes for the inadequate cooling.