Emerson (025806803716) Wine Cooler - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Luzer - Thanks for the very helpful solution. My cooler has the problem described. When I take off the back and plug it back in, all three fans run, but the unit does not get cold. Is it possible that it needs new fans anyway (like maybe they are going but not moving enough air to generate the effect)? Or woudl it be something else?Thanks!

NO. Wine is not supposed to be stored cooler than 54 degrees.

:
Hi!
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
It does a lot of clicking (trying to start over and over again)
If thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
I use part no ERP410 POWER START RELAY, CAPACITOR AND OVERLOAD all in one. (110 v)

If you still have trouble Go Here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

Thank you for using fixya
Leo Ponder
PLEASE VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

check the fam to make sure it spins freely ,, a little wd-40 could help, If the power supply is straining to make the fan move, you will hear that whining sound as its over loading

there will be a leak in the pressurised line, leak check it with soapy water. if you cant find anything then get it re gassed, hope this helps :)

If you got this new, You should have a manual with the hi-est and lowest temp setting in it...If you do not have the manual than you can Google the same question on google search and get a manual,or a forum where they talk about this model.

yes this is for sure happening because you put it on its side. my suggestion is to 1 - turn it off. 2 put it upright 3 leave it for half an hour and then turn it on.

the sound you hear is the compressor trying to pump oil because you had the fridge on its side. Stand it upright to allow the oil to drain back to the sump and then try.

because the compressor has already pumped the oil - it may make the noise again for a while but it should pass ok.

worst case is that the compressor seizes due to lack of oil or that the filter gets blocked up. but both of these are unlikely.

hope this helps

koolman77 (refrigeration technician)

The thermostat may be bad. Remove and test it with an ohmeter. If there is no continuity while the thermostat knob is turned all the way to the colder setting; the thermostat is obviously bad.

YOU CAN RECTIFY THE PANEL WITH THE HELP OF COMPANIES CUSTOMER SERVICE CENTRE NUMBER PRINTEDON THE MANUAL.OR DELER MAY HELP YOU

The flashing signals that the thermoelectric element - the on that does the cooling - is no longer operational or the wiring between it and the control board has failed. To find out which you must open the cover on the control board and test them with a ohmmeter. Since the replacement parts are very hard to obtain by an regular person it would be better to take it to a repair shop.

Your cooler uses the thermoelectric effect - no parts are moving. Because of that the only thing that would cause the cooler to not cool enough is the temperature control board/thermostat.
A thermostat can't be repaired, it must be replaced. This is quite a delicate job, best left to a professional. He will also be able to find the parts a lot easier and for a smaller price.

If you are handy with small electrics, or know someone who is...

I had a similar problem and just solved it.
My cooler was leaking and had trouble keeping the proper temperature.
It was also making a buzzing sound which is what lead me to my solution.
BTW - The liquid that was leaking was condensation, probably because the unit was not holding a constant temperature.

Unplug the unit first - no need to get electrocuted.
These units use peltier cooling- essentially a large heat sink with three fans attached.
Click here for more info regarding peltier cooling.
The peltier unit is not repairable, but the fans are; which was what my problem was.
There are three fans on this unit, one on the inside and two on the outside.
Follow these steps to remove them.

1. Remove the rear cover. It is held on with ten screws. This exposes the two exterior fans and the peltier heat sink
2. The heat sink is held on with four screws - remove them and pull the heat sink out. The third fan is on a short wire lead, so be careful when removing the heat sink from the body of the cooler.
3. The two exterior fans are connected to a control panel, the electrical connection is easy to disconnect.
4. Once all of the wires have been disconnected, you can remove the fans from the heat sink.
   
5. The fans are screwed to a mounting plate, which is screwed to the heat sink
6. You must remove the mounting plate first to expose the screws that hold the fan to the mounting plate. The fans are typical computer case cooling fans
7. I only needed one fan, but replaced all three because I didn't want to do this job again.
8. I purchased my fans from Newark.com the prices were better than what I found at the computer websites. Also, these fans are much better than the original and will hopefully last much longer than the three I got from the old ones.
9. You need one of these and two of these. The total with shipping was around $30
10. You will need to splice the old electrical connection sockets onto the new fans using wire crimpers or solder them on.
11. Attach the components in reverse order and power on the unit.
12. These fnas may move more air than the originals, because the unit seemed to cool much quicker than I remember.
    
13. Total time for repair is about 45 minutes

Hope this helps and Good Luck

Hello,

What model # do you have? Is there anything working at all like lights, fans, or displays?

There is a thermostat that is seen on the unit , you will have to set the thermostat to a lower level. Also check if there is any gasket leak to confirm that the cooling does not stay.
Keep the cooler away from hot spots to encourage the cooling to stay.

Hi,

As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then…

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor

heatman101

ask here, they already found many Durabrand manuals

It's between 55 and 65 degrees fahrenheit. If you're storing a lighter red wine, you'd want to keep it on the lower end (55 degrees). And for the darker (deep) red, you'd want to keep it on the higher end (65 degrees). All white wines should be on the lower end, and below. You can drop down to 50 degrees if you'd like. I hope this helps. Good Luck! 

It is not the compressor. This unit uses a peltier cooling system. It has no compressor. It relies on applying a voltage to two dissimilar metals connected at two junctions and when this is attached to a heat sink, allows for the cooling effect. I know this doesn't help, but I thought I should point this out.

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

This is a 6 or 8 bottle free-standing wine cooler from what I can tell.

I am not having much luck determining if this is a manual defrost type unit or not. Given the inital sales price now of $79.95 I have to assume it is a manual defrost type.

There are a few things that can cause your problem.

1. PTC relay and KliXon thermal overload assy on the compressor.

2. Run capacitor

3. Temp control

You said the fan does not run so I cab not rule out the temp control.

I can not even find a parts break down of the unit.

With no fan running the very first suspect is the temp control but you can at least listen for a CLICK when you cycle it from off to any other position. If you hear a click I would start looking at compressor start / run parts.

If you have access to your units compressor note the manufacturer, hp if stated (1/8hp etc) and Model number.

Then call or visit your local appliance parts supply store with that information in hand. The will have a PTC relay / KilXon thermal overload AND run capacitor that will fit your unit. I am pretty sure that will get you going again UNLESS you have a broken wire somewhere.

The replacement parts are going to run about 50% of the cost to replace the whole thing.

Thanks for using FixYa!

Kelly

This sounds like one of two things. Either the system had a freon leak or it is froze up inside where you can't see it due to not defrosting. A good way to check to see if still has freon in it is to unplug it.. place a fan blowing into the unit for about 2 hours then plug it back in and see if it gets cold. If it gets cold then it is not defrosting. If it does not get cold at all it has a freon leak or a blocked freon flow. In any cause this is a valid warranty repair. Call for service after the fan episode, tell them it is less than a month old and a warranty repair.