20 Most Recent LG LFX25971ST Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.

its because your defrost timer or defrost circuit or limit switches are weak or bad

Log onto www.lgusa.com and you can download the manual.

If the arm is up it is on if arm is down it is off.

Okay,
Defective compressor, refrigerant low from a leak in the system, dirty condenser coils, condenser fan not working, bad compressor relay or capacitor, main thermostat control not working, thermostat needs to be set at proper setting, frozen evaporator coils do to faulty defrost timer, defrost heater coil broken, or the defrost determination thermostat has stayed in the open position, which would result in no defrost and the ice blockage would stop air the circulation, defective evaporator fan, defective door switch which controls the evaporator fan when one opens and closes the freezer door. Freezer drain clogged which would possibly cause the fan to be stuck because of ice built up around it.

ok...1st there is only one connection to the fridge at the valve.2nd check the filter and see if one is present.3rd make shure the child lock out feature on the dispencer is not activated.

what light blinking

Possibly the defrost element is faulty, this is located behind a cover in the back of the freezer compartment and is attached to the fins of the evaporator. It also has a defrost limit thermostat which could also be the problem. I presume that the fan is working after you have defrosted the unit?

Try pulling the cover off in the back of the fridge and see if the fan is still operating when you push the light sensor switch in but hold it down for at least 10-20seconds to see if it starts.

Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation: AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section. u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.

?? ??? ????? ? ???? ?? ????? ??? ?? ??? ? ???? ???? ????? ????? ?? ??? ???? ???? ????? ?? ???? ????? ???? ?? ???. ????? ?? ?? ?? ???? ???? ????? ??? ?? ?? ?? ??? ????? ?? ??? ?? ?? ??? ??? ????? ?? ???.

You just pull it out 12" so the door will open fully.

Happened to me, too. I hadn’t placed the top hinge covers back on after removing the doors to move the fridge. The sensors that tell the fridge the doors are closed are in the hinge covers.

Error code list is given on LG Official website LG Refrigerator - Error Code List ' LG USA Support Error code P5 is not listed in error code list. Please mention exact error code.

It appears that it doesn't. It appears to have a Thermistor and a heater. That would mean timing comes from the control board. https://www.google.com/search?q=LG+LFXS28968S+defrost+timer ..

Do you have a test meter to check if the power button is working and has continuity? My advice with a suspected control board is always to get professional diagnosis due to the cost or control boards. It would be a shame to buy one and find it doesn't fix the issue. ..

unplug the power for 10 minutes then plug it back in. this seems to work on mine,

While the LG AEQ57518210 and LG 5989JA0002Y ice makers may appear similar and have the same adapter, it's important to note that using a different ice maker model than the one specified by the manufacturer can have potential risks and consequences. Refrigerators are designed with specific components, including ice makers, that are tested and engineered to work together as a system. Using a different model ice maker may lead to the following issues:

1. Compatibility Issues: Even if the adapter fits, there might be compatibility issues between the different ice maker models and your refrigerator. The electrical connections, mounting points, and water supply might not align properly, causing installation difficulties or functionality problems.
2. Performance and Quality: Ice makers are designed with specific performance and quality standards. Using a different model ice maker might lead to subpar ice production, inconsistent ice quality, or even no ice production at all.
3. Leakage or Water Damage: Improperly fitted or incompatible ice makers could result in water leakage, which can cause damage to the refrigerator, flooring, or surrounding areas.
4. Electrical or Wiring Issues: Different ice maker models might have different electrical requirements or wiring configurations. Mismatched electrical connections could lead to electrical problems or even pose safety risks.
5. Voiding Warranty: If your refrigerator is still under warranty, using non-standard parts like an incompatible ice maker might void the warranty.
6. Long-Term Reliability: While the initial cost savings might be tempting, using an incompatible ice maker could lead to long-term reliability issues for your refrigerator.