20 Most Recent Mongoose 24 Inch XR75 Bike - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Special tools are required...

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/crank-service

Metal chains and gears will not fail to engage simply because they're slippery. Look closely at how they mesh. Maybe the teeth are worn, or the chain or both.

http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

flip the bike over and look at the bottom under the main crank

Spray WD40 or other penetrating oil on all moving parts. If you get a syringe from a pharmacy you can put oil into it an squirt it down the shifter and brake cable sleeves. If any moving parts are still stiff, leave the bike for a day to allow the oil to soak and penetrate. Try not to get any oil on the brake pads or rims.

There is probably not a single thing on that bike that is specific to Mongoose. In other words, every adjustment and component on it is in accordance with the third-party manufacturer's specs.

Find one of their generic manuals here...

http://www.mongoose.com/usa/usaeng/mtn/man_inst

This site is awesome: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

Google will find just about anything for you without the time-delay of asking one of us.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/derailleur-systems

It's all adjustments.

Quick releases skewers will hold the wheel just fine if tightened properly. They're SUPPOSED TO dig into the paint.

http://www.nashbar.com/images/nashbar/web/PDFs/QUICKREL.PDF

Deralleur and brake cables will stretch or break-in with initial use and always require some tweaking early on. Some shops build that expected tune-up into their sales offering.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/derailleur-systems

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/brake-service-and-repair

For the gear problem.Find the shifter.Use a pair of pliers and loosen the nut where the cable is passing through the shifter.Now withe the pliers pull the cable tight.Very tight.Spray the shifter with WD-40.That should fix it.


For the front rim,tighten all the spokes.Pliers will work,but a spoke too; will make the job faster.

There is a screw on the derailer.Loosen it and using pliers pull it tight the hold while you tighten the screw.

Manuals here...

http://www.mongoose.com/usa/usaeng/mtn/man_inst

Great advice here...

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

I'm sure they have bicycle shops even in the Commonwealth. THAT is what you need to look for. Google it.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&source=hp&biw=1161&bih=976&q=bicycle+repair+shop+revere+mass&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-installation-derailleur-bikes

Or it could be the dreaded mismatch of new chain with worn drivetrain parts...

http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

Not quite sure what you're atlking about. Roam around here and see if that helps. There's also Google with lots of videos for just about anything you want to do.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cassette-and-freewheel-removal

The chain guard is usually fastened to the seat tube of the bike (the frame tube coming up from the pedal area to the seat) with a plastic band. If this band is broken or missing, and there is excessive play in the chain guard, I suggest removing it entirely or returning the bike as it may be a hazard.

It sounds like the freewheel mechanism within the rear hub has failed. When freewheeling does the hub click at all? If not, you will require a new rear wheel.

Maximum height was determined when the bike was built and they sawed off the steerer tube.

There is no way to raise the stem vertically, short of getting a new stem that has a higher rise.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headset_(bicycle_part)

Take it to a bike shop.

You would need a crank extractor tool jsut to remove it, then you would have to selct a new crank set that would fit you bottom bracket for sa correct chainline, yada yada. Not something a novice wants to tackle solo.

See...

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/crank-service

to see what's involved and the tools you need.

It's either too little chaim tension, worn out chain or worn out teeth on the cog.

Do you mean the rear derailleur?


It almost sounds like rear wheel isn't 'freewheeling' properly. The gears on the rear wheel should be able to remain motionless (with the pedals) when you coast. Does it do the same thing if you just walk the bike or does it make the pedals rotate as you go? If that is the case you could seriously damage the derailleur if it isn't resolved.

Catastrophic lack of lube in it hub or freewheel body will make it seem to be in a fixed relationship with the wheel. A bike shop would have the proper expertise and tools to lube it properly.