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Zephyr Cyclone AK6500 Kitchen Hood Questions & Answers
Dripping kitchen exhaust fans
It sounds like there is a restriction in the vent or the hood is to low. It should be at least 18" above the cooking surface.
Can I replace the light bulbs without removing the
Yes, it is possible to replace the light bulbs without removing the panel that surrounds the two bulbs. The problem is that those bulbs get slippery because of cooking oil splatters.
I recommend that you use a paper towel and some window cleaner (aka: Windex) Spray the towel and clean the bulb. Let each dry and turn the bulb to loosen it out. Use the moist paper towel to help turn is needed.
Be so careful to not break the bulb as you remove it. Good Luck!
I have a zephyr savona zsa- m90s range hood that is making alot of noise when operating on medium range. the unit is 12 years old should I replace the fan motor at this time
I own a Savona Zephyr that I bought in 2007. 5 years later, the motor made a rough sound and I ended up buying a new motor and installed it. Yes, that fixed it but I was rather upset that a fan costing $650 needed a new motor 5 years later. I called their service and they said that was typical.
Oiling Will not help. The bearings are shot.
Now it's 16 years since purchase and it happened again. I decided to see if I can fix it and it is fixable with only a few tools most people own.
Remove the vent hood from the wall and place it on 2 chairs supporting each side. Remove the screens.
Remove the 4 screws hold the fan motor to the hood, supporting the motor from underneath.
Place the hood on it's back and lay the motor so the lines don't stretch.
Remove the ground wire to get extra movement. If the main wires go into a plastic box, remove the screws to the box cover and place side. This allows the motor to lay on the floor.
4 screws hold the fan casing together. Remove those. Mark one side with white out. When you remove it, put white out on the hub of the fan to remember which side is which. Also mark the end of the axle that the fan is on to know which side to put the fan blade on.
Lift the fan out of the casing.
Using an adjustable wrench or a 13 mm socket, hold the fan blade (it will be oily and disgusting) and turn the nut counter clockwise. It is a compression nut. Do this on both sides, trying not to knock off the white out.
The motor casing is 2 long screws. Remove them.
Slide off the casing end. It has a bearing on the bottom of it that is easily pushed out with a screwdriver.
Pull the motor core from the main housing and place somewhere gently. There is a spring and washer that you need to save and remember to put back in. The shaft should have a bearing on it. One or both of them is damaged and needs to be replaced. I bought mine at Ace hardware for $10. I also bought some c clips because the plastic ones on the shaft broke into pieces. They need to be replaced.
To fix, put in the new bearing. There may be a rubber sleeve on one end that has to be moved to the new bearing. Reassemble the motor the way you took it apart. The challenging steps are putting in the c clips and then reassembling the entire unit getting the correct order. There are plastic fairing pieces that have to be put on the shaft before putting the motor back in the blower housing. Then they have to be clipped in. Take your time... it's doable. Put the plastic fairings and motor in the blower housing without the fan blades on so you can manipulate the fairings into place. Make sure the axle with the white out matches the white out on the fairing. You will need to remove the casing screens which was one small screw on my unit to be able to reach in. Once the blower casing is together with the 4 screws, put the correctly marked fan blade on the correctly marked axle. Hold the fan blade while you tighten the compression nut firmly but not so hard that you break the fan blade. Put the screens on. Put the blower back in the hood with the 4 screws. Reattach the grinding wire and the plastic box cover and you're done. The bearing and clips were $12. It's a 19mm bearing but in inches it's .748 inches OD and .2362 inches ID.
good luck. They are beautiful fans with bearings that fail in the heat they operate in. The bearings can't be greased. They must be replaced.
What steps do I take to replace a zephyr magnet switch
Here are the general steps to replace a Zephyr magnet switch:
- Turn off power to the switch at the circuit breaker.
- Remove the cover plate from the switch.
- Remove the two screws holding the switch in place.
- Carefully pull the switch out of the wall, exposing the wiring.
- Take a photo or make a note of the wiring connections to the switch.
- Disconnect the wiring from the old switch.
- Connect the wiring to the new switch in the same way as the old switch.
- Carefully push the new switch back into the wall.
- Secure the new switch in place with the screws.
- Replace the cover plate.
- Turn the power back on at the circuit breaker and test the switch to make sure it is working correctly.
I have a Zephyr range hood with GU10 bulbs. Easy to remove , unable to re-install. I'm the 3rd person on this journey.
The two small pins on the bottom of the bulb must line up with the small holes in the base of the socket. This can be tricky since you can't see it once the bulb is inserted. Make sure their nothing already in one of the socket pin holes (like part of the old bulb) and the note the socket hole locations and (lightly, using your finger tips) fit the bulb up into the socket and wiggle it until the pins and holes align. It does fit, but sometimes it is not without a challenge.
Our zephyr vent hood fan turns itself on, about two or three times a week. Often late at night, waking us up. What can we do to fix this?
I am completely guessing but assume it uses electronic switching?
A standard or old sort of cooker hood use mechanical switches, which would have to be seriously faulty to switch themselves on, though water ingress from condensation entering a switch can over time cause a carbonised track to form that could when damp carry enough current to run a low powered motor or alternatively blow the fuse/trip the RCD if the track is a ground path.
With electronic switching there are usually buttons mounted on a circuit board and in order to produce compact dimensions the tracks are very close together. The buttons usually need only make a momentary contact for a very small current to flow and the brain to switch on the motor.
A tiny drop of water entering this unit can cause mayhem...
Okeanito grease
I would try a hand steamer, it definitely won't affect the stainless and I'm assuming you have a large glass, stainless or tile cplashback. Hope this helps
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