20 Most Recent Whirlpool GSS30C6EYW 30 cu. ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator with Tap Tou - Page 10 Questions & Answers

Good day,
I see you're not from the states. You'll have to google to find the thermostat. Isn't there an appliance parts house in your area?
Two, generally replacing a tstat is a nuts and bolts proceedure.
Once you have it in hand, it will be far easier to understand.

CHECK TO SEE IF A ICECUBE IS STUCK IN THE FINGERS OF THE ICE MAKER. UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR SO YOU DONT GET YOUR FINGERS STUCK WHEN PULLING OUT THE CUBE If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dude_653d05454b389bba

Yes, and please remove all the food for the repairman.

If this is a self defrosting unit, the defrost timer may be stuck in the defrost cycle. Or perhaps the cold control went bad, or even the compressor or starting relay burned out.

Got my mate electronics exoert to check the circuit board, he found the fautly part and replaced it - cost ZERO

Yes! look under you fridge for the consendate drain hose *(usually dangling right over the catch tray) and using a long piece of slightly heavy guage wire snake up the drain hose and see if it's blocked.

If it isn't blocked you might have a crack somewhere in the fridges interior near the fridge/freezer interface. That might be a bit harder to spot since it would most likely be under cover.

Good luck and be careful.

Problem has sorted itself out. We removed and gave away quite a lot of food from the freezer and cleared away some ice that had accumulated on the temperature sensor. When we checked this morning the temperature had returned to -24 C so we don't need to go in search of a new freezer today, thank goodness!

Replace the water inlet valve , the piece that the wall water line connects to on the refrig .. Something like a grain of sand , piece of dirt etc , is caught in the rubber bellows , not letting the valve close completely . This will cause a scratch , which will collect anything else that comes thru , so cleaning it out will not work . ( it won't remove the scratch ) .

The doors should be warm. There or heaters in the doors or what they call a yodelers loop in the frame around the doors that keeps condensation from forming. Make sure the fan if blowing on the compressor and the fan inside the freezer is also running. If so be sure there is no ice built up on the bottom inside back panel of the freezer. If so you will have a defrost problem and the coil is full of ice and not allowing the air to flow through it and cool the fridge. If there is ice, the heater behind the panel is most likely bad.

Orange switch only by passes the thermostat. It sounds like your freezer is either out of gas or the cooling fan (if there is one) is not working.

On most icemakers there is an arm of some sort that goes over the ice storage container that shuts it off when full. Check if that is stuck in the "up" position. This is how many refrigerators turn off the icemaker and it can be bumped while getting ice directly. Make sure that are is in the down position and see if that does it. Remember, if it was up and you push it down, it may take a few minutes for the icemaker to start filling. If it goes down, come back in 15 minutes or so and make sure the tray is full. If you need any more help, let me know. There are other things, such as a bad switch or solenoid, but try that first.

yes it is

No you cannot turn off the auto-defrost as the unit would stop working at all after a short time, and there's no provision to do so anyway. And I don't understand why you would thing the feature would have anything to do with fFreezer Burn. Freezer Burn imay be somewhat affected by the temperature, but mostly how well the food is sealed, keeping air out of the package. If freezing packaged meats from your supermarket for instance, the air in the package will burn them in, yes as little as two weeks. If that is the problem, you must repackage those items, eliminating as much air contact with the food in the package as possible to avoid the problem. I myself use both plastic wrap and aluminum foil to repackage anything I want to keep a while.

Check the coil at the back of the freezer for ice buildup. Should there be ice build up, have it defrosted and cleaned. If that does not solve it check out the thermistor, also located at the back at a panel. It may have gone bad.

there is a starter on the compressor that could be bad. Its a small box that plugs onto the side of the compressor. If you shake it and it rattles, its probably no good.

i could bet my left leg that your solenoid coil has died. im guessing its still pumping water and getting cold.

Check your fan inside the fridge, see if it is working? If not replace it

Good day,
When the thermostat is turned on, the fan and compressor should come on and start at the same time. If the compressor continues to run and the fan doesn't, then the fan motor or the wiring to it are suspect.

Quote (The fan motor is o.k ). I doen't know how you tested it, but it still remains suspect, since the thermostat sends power to both of them at the same time.

First check if the water supply line is turned on and if is not kinked or broken somewhere , if is ok and there's a water filter it could be cloghed , and if all this checked ok probably the dual solenoid valve is bad.