20 Most Recent Kenmore 40" Self-Clean Freestanding Electric Range with Two - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Yes, this is most likely a thermostat problem. If you have tried every temp level below 400 and it will not come on until you reach 400 on the dial, then you most likely have a temp sensor switch/ thermostat problem.
I had to assume alot of things here:
1. It is an electric oven.
2. Once you get the oven to start at the magic number and try to dial down from there, the oven turns itself off.
3. It will start up as long as the temp is first set at 400 degrees or higher.

Could you please give the make and model of the oven and explain in more detail what exactly you want to do with the oven whether you want the stove top or the oven itself to turn on.

Thanks


Benjamin

bad sensor

to get all the detailed instructions
just click this link directly
http://www.applianceaid.com/selfclean5.html
The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.

Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.

If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
thanks.

The oven temperature sensor is bad. Open the oven look in the back wall of the oven on the top right or left side.There will be a 3 inch piece of metal sticking out,slightly smaller than a pencil thickness. Unplug the range. Remove the screws from the sensor and pull it out to disconnect the wiring plug. Install a new temp sensor.

Most can be found at Home Depot or Lowes. Take your old one with you to make sure you duplicate the one you want to replace. If yours is rare, try Appliance Depot online. They have a ton, but then you pay shipping. If you have a glass top, you'll have to open it up to see the element inside. Most just snap in to the slot. They are usually easy to remove to clean.

if its a drop in cook top, all you have to do is cut a proper size hole

The model number comes back as no good, please check the model number again. I believe there should be more numbers

It is simply a cosmetic issue.
The heating elements are not embedded in the glass top - they are underneath.
Using the burners will be fine.

Thanks for using FixYa - a Very Helpful rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Since this is a Kenmore cooktop, contact a Sears store and they will assist you.

The ER42 error code typically indicates an issue related to insufficient power being delivered to the ceramic element. Check Power Supply: Ensure that the cooktop is receiving adequate power. Verify that the power supply is stable and not fluctuating. Inspect the PCB (Printed Circuit Board): Since the error points to a fault on the PCB, visually inspect the control board for any signs of damage, loose connections, or burnt components. Capacitors: You mentioned that you've already changed the capacitors. While this is a good step, it's essential to ensure that the new capacitors are correctly installed with the same rating and polarity. Reset the Cooktop: Turn off the power to the cooktop completely. Disconnect it from the mains for a few minutes, then reconnect it and power it back on. Sometimes, a reset can clear minor glitches. No joy? Consider professional repair.

It needs a new control if it has dials or a control pad or a part if it is electronic. Full make and MODEL (what it is) in all answer please as first 3 words in every question.Edited as model number given Whirlpool GFE471LVShttps://www.whirlpool.com/owners-center-pdp.GFE471LVS.htmlThe Infinite Switches are $130, so it is best to test them with a multimeter first.https://www.partswarehouse.com/Whirlpool-GFE471LVS0-Freestanding-Electric-Range-s/131742.htmVideos showing how to changehttps://www.google.com/search?q=whirlpool+gfe471lvs+replace+hob+infinite+switchOwner Manual, just because it was therehttps://www.manualslib.com/products/Whirlpool-Gfe471lvs0-10479409.html..

Child Lock function is on. https://www.google.com/search?q=Beko+H1164403T+induction+hob+child+lock ..

A) https://hobguide.com/induction-hob-cannot-detect-pan/ B) https://hobguide.com/induction-hob-not-working-on-one-side/ You are advised to not try to get into the electronics of the induction hob. Such is dangerous. The unit uses 3 phase electricity, something unlikely to be addressed by DIY activity if you want to be safe. Check your warranty. I assume this is not a matter of pans of the wrong material or size being deployed. This well may require a technician to sort out. The brand/model has not been identified so I cannot direct you to further resources. Your user manual surely provides a company name where you might seek some customer support.

There seems to be quite a few ways... Check out these sites.. https://www.google.com/search?q=How+can+i+remove+a+stuck+venturi Best to you.