20 Most Recent GMC 2001 Yukon XL 1500 SLT Questions & Answers

It probably lost its 3/4 pack. That's the technical term meaning 3rd 4th gears are damaged due to the loss of fluid. My trans mechanic told me that there's a fluid port that supplies fluid to the 3-4 pack. And that port is designed too small, DESIGNED TO BREAK, after so many miles. That don't apply to your situation but if it will only go 20-30mph its probably not hitting 3rd gear. Time for a rebuild unfortunately. They can replace the 3-4 pack only but most shops will want to rebuild it in total. I found vids on the YouTube.

On a 2001 I don't think so. but disconnect the battery for a good bit and make sure everything as far as that goes battery is clean( terminals& cables ) ground is as important as power. shoud be fine after 1/2 hour.

The door lock control module is getting wet in the door. It happened in mine, and I had to replace it. Eventually it will start locking down the engine most likely because it will think it is being stolen.

Make sure you are not moving to fast,but you do have to move alittle bit before in will go in, may have the a problem with the motor that is mounted on outside of unit,sticking,take off and check if it works.

It could be a fuse (check to see if the right side mirror adjusts.) I have found that there are some problems with the wire loom between the door and the door jam; if you have any problems with your automatic windows or door locking switches then I would check the connections in the loom. The problem (I feel) is that these wires are too short and begin to crack with heat and age of the vehicle. Unless you can do this work yourself, and after you check the fuse, live with the problem or adjust it by hand. The cost of someone fixing it (if it is the loom) is costly for a 2001 vehicle.

Question edited for clarity, full 'make model (what it is)'. Email address removed. You don't need the site's 12 million annual viewers emailing you to say they can fix it for a thousand bucks! Finally, Please don't type in all CAPS, it is considered SHOUTING and is harder to read. Repair Clinic has some good ideas, but your model is discontinued

Fedders Air conditioner won't turn off

Repair Clinic https://www.repairclinic.com > RepairHelp > Fedders-Ai... Here are the most common reasons your Fedders AC compressor won't turn off - and the parts & instructions to fix the problem yourself.

Why Your Air Conditioner Isn't Shutting Off, and How to Fix It

Williams Comfort Air https://williamscomfortair.com > ac-wont-shut-off When your air conditioner won't shut off, it's natural to worry about wasting electrical power as temperatures become too cool for comfort. ..

Here are the steps you might want to follow: Setting the Draining Cycle Times (Dump Interval): This setting controls how often the unit dumps the water. You can adjust this setting to reduce the frequency of water dumping. Setting the Drain off Delay Time (Dump Delay): This setting controls the delay time before the unit starts to dump the water after it has been turned off. If adjusting these settings doesn't work, there could be other issues with your unit. For example, a continuous water dumping problem could be due to a faulty dump valve or a problem with the float valve.

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Why do you need to dismantle this? Some of these types of cooler do not have replaceable parts inside. They are usually classed as a "Throw away" machine. It is often easier and cheaper to replace it than repair it.

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Blocked jets clogged with dust or dirt, blocked injector need a clean / service

o reset your Homebasix Oscillating Parabolic Heater, follow these steps: Unplug the heater from the power source. Locate the Manual Reset Button on the heater. It's usually a small button or switch. Use a fireproof, non-conductive rod (such as a wooden stick or plastic tool) to press the Manual Reset Button. After resetting, plug the heater back in and check if it functions properly. Remember to ensure that there are no flammable objects within 3 feet of the heater and that it is placed on a stable surface.

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Sir my package Ac is .UL error code sir

Parts suppliers in the link. Ot if you take the old one off, a metal fabrication workshop could make you a new one. https://www.google.com/search?q=Newlec+NLSH+24AN+storage+heater+parts They still sell them and they all look the same. https://www.hwelectric.co.uk/newlec.php ..

Obviously window and wall a/c units are not tradable, in spite of the fact that I don't have the subtleties of the distinction. Alter Window units are intended to exploit the way that a window is a flimsy segment; vents outwardly of the a/c case can be near within part of the a/c unit, yet be outside (where they must be). This might permit the window units to be less expensive. Interestingly, a wall can be 6" thick or more; wall units should have all vents near the rear of the unit. BTW I generally felt that the vents in the side of a window unit were for admission of air at encompassing temperature to then be coordinated through the condenser curl at the back plane of the unit to be depleted out the back (presently more sweltering than surrounding), however as a matter of fact a portion of the side vent region may likewise be utilized for ousting air which cools engines. It may be the case that in a window unit the venting on one side is committed to admission of air for the condenser loop and the venting on the opposite side is for exhaust. This would forestall the hot exhaust air being pulled in the admission for the condenser cooling air. Window ACs versus Through-the-Wall ACs It's not difficult to think about window and through wall ACs, since they're comparative in cooling limit and size, yet through-the-wall units will generally be somewhat more productive in light of the fact that they make an impermeable seal in the room. The significant contrasts between these ACs include establishment and venting. Window ACs fit through a window and don't need long-lasting establishment, while through wall ACs are really incorporated into the wall - making them well known in rooms without windows or for individuals who like to let their windows be. Wall forced air systems normally just vent warm air through the rear of the unit, while window ACs vent from the sides and back. Hence, window and through wall models are not exchangeable (regardless of whether they're a similar size). Generally speaking, in the event that a window unit vents out its side, the wall will obstruct the vents and cause overheating. Select window AC models can be introduced through a wall, however provided that they have a slide-out case wall sleeve. Peruse more on wall sleeves.