I have a imperial fryer that has pilot but *** soon as i turn the t' stat on it clicks then pilot shuts off i already replace gas valve and thermapile
IT IS A GAS PRESSURE PROBLEM CHECK TO SEE IF THERE IS A GAS REGULATOR IN LINE WITH THE GAS PIPE TO THE FRYER IF SO ADJUST REGULATOR TAKE TOP ALUMINUM SCREW OF YOU WILL SEE WHITE PLASTIC SCREW TURN WHITE SCREWW TO THE RIGHT ALL THE WAY IF SAME PROBLEM OR NO REGULATOR RESTICTION IN GAS LINE
Posted on Nov 19, 2008
Pilot light works. When you turn the temp. dial you feel the click but does not light the burners. I don't hear or smell any gas. I have replaced my thermocouple, high limit switch and finally combination valve. The pilot stay lit but the burners wont light up. Put in a new roberstshaw 7000MVR took the high limit out of the equation by bypassing it. Still nothing. I am sure the thermostat is working. Even if I jump that it doesnt do anything. Stumped.
Try to clean the pilot orfice,ive seen even though the pilot stays lit it doesnt have enough millivolts to energize the gas valve.Did you check the wiring really good?
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
i can get the pilot to light but as soon as i move the knob to "on" it goes out. I already tried a now thermopile but the wires on the old one were discolored beyond recognition i may have the new one hooked up wrong? i had the thing completely broke down piece by piece to clean it and welded the tank for a minor leak around the burner. i may have switched some wires around on reassembly also, but im not really sure i have no papers on it, (fyi i had everything labeled, until the power washer got going lol) thanks
Hello. It sounds like your wiring is shorting or crossed for sure, or your gas valve has failed, but the pilot lights, and stays on, so good sign. If you hosed the hi-limit or the thermostat, these could short internally, and cause the pilot to drop out. Try this, disconnect the wiring going to the hi-limit ( control with the 3 screws ), and the thermostat, relight the pilot with only the thermopile connected to the gas valve, turn it to on, and see, if it stays, then a wiring problem, or component problem for sure. I see I cannot get a diagram from them, maybe you can call, and have them send you one. Let me know.
Hope that helped, and thank you.
If you need more help, "ask me",
Posted on Apr 13, 2009
How do I test the Pitco Frialator 35CS high limit switch
remove connections from hi-limit switch, and put an ohm-meter across connections then heat it with a match or heat source of that temp range,heat the face and watch your meter it will show open when hi limit reaches cutoff limit/if you need exact cutout temp,you will need to have one of those digital read-out temp gun
Posted on Jul 27, 2009
i have a imperial ifs-40 that i get alot of black soot on my walls of my stand and in the fryer. people tell my im not getting enough air if so how do i adjust it
Flame is Orange? If so, propane is "choked", not enough air. Remove burners, clean each burner hole with a same size metal dowel (coat hanger works well) flush out inside of burner with garden hose, hi pressure air through all holes to dry. Replace burners ONLY after also cleaning chambers and chimney (garden hose and long brush). Do not forget to clean pilot light area too.
Most Imperials are pre-set air intake. Check gas pressure if able, 3" NG, 10" LPG. Good Luck
Posted on May 13, 2010
It gives a lot of Soot
Sounds like you may have the thermostat turned way too high.... If you don't, check to make sure it's working correctly, like is the temperature reading correct? Is your flue all junked up with build up and crud? If so, you will need to clean it out.... You can scrap it out with a dough scraper or anything else that works for you...Also, you might check your gas connections, or have your gas co check them, and see if there are any issues with the gas connection and the amount of gas coming into your fryer. Hope this helps you.
Susan
REO
Posted on Dec 26, 2011
The pilot light works when I turn up the gas I can hear it click but it doesn't kick in. I've seen other post saying to test the thermopile but how do I do that? How do I replace it and where would I get the part
Hi there.
You will be needing a dc voltmeter set at millivolt to test a thermopile.
measure the voltage across the termials of the thermopile when it is heated by the pilot flame, you should have 600 to 750 millivolt reading.
If the reading is less than 600, try cleaning it with non metal scrubbing pad and/ or try increaing the pilot flame or you have to replace it with a new one.
Try the same with your other fryers with thermopile.
You will be able to find parts at http://www.imperialrange.com
Regards.
Posted on Jul 11, 2012
how can i check if its a bad themopile or gas walve
In my experience, the thermocouple (you called it a thermopile) is usually the weak link that fails, and is also the least expensive to replace, so start there with a high degree of confidence.
The purpose of a thermocouple is to convert the heat of the pilot flame into millivolts of electricity, which holds the pilot gas valve open, assuring that there is a flame present if there is gas flowing. They typically cost around $20.
Here is the website for the manufacturer, which includes the manual download and contact information:
http://www.imperialrange.com/
Posted on Jul 27, 2012
I have an imperial fryer. Pilot is on but main burners don't ignite. Pilot looks normal & thermostat clicks when turned
Number 5 is your thermopile/pilot generator. It is a pilot generator that does 2 things. It holds open the valve with a safety magnet and it operates the safety valve solenoid whenever the control stat calls for heat. Overtime they get weak and will hold the pilot but not operate the valve solenoid. I would replace that pilot generator.thermopile and party on!
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
Posted on Aug 01, 2012
slowly builds black soot
Soot is caused by a few things in gas appliances. Propane even more so. Lack of combustion air is usually the culprit. In propane fired equipment orifice alignment, high pressure or the wrong burner orifice can cause yellow flames the result in soot build up. You need to find the culprit. Best to have a service tech check it out and clean it. when you know what to look for it can be easily fixed.
Posted on May 15, 2014
317 questions posted
Usually answered in minutes!
16 Questions
4 Questions
4 Questions