Top 20 Stoves 720EF Electric Double Oven - Page 7 Questions & Answers

It could be that the overheat thermostat is kicking in, albeit earlier than it should do. Have you checked to see that the oven thermostat is working correctly and is not heating the oven up too much ( does the neon go off and on) and is the oven cooling fan running ok in the background. If these two appear to be ok, then you may need to replace the overheat thermostat.
(The oven cooling fan should remain on for about 5 to 10 mins after either oven or grill has been used. If this isn't happening or it is not running correctly then that is why the overheat device is shutting the oven off). As a thought, are the top oven and grill working ok? if they are, then it narrows it down to either the oven thermostat or the overheat sensor.

I am not an expert on this but I believe the answer is NO. The burners/regulator are different.

Yes it is. All I need is an email address and I will send you a copy.

There are two overheat devices in the oven. One feeds the oven timer/programmer for the main oven and the other feeds the grill. If the cooling fan is running ok, then I would suspect it is the cutout feeding the grill elements that has perhaps with age is not working as it should do.

The diagram is in the handbook. If you don't have one and need a copy, I can give you a pdf copy. All I need is an email address and I will send it to you.
(By the way, the grill only operates with the door down. There is a microswitch in the right hand side of the oven that stops the grill operating when the door is up).

It could be the stat. First check that the sender unit located at the top rear of the oven above the fan cover is bright and clean and not covered with dirt and grease. Use a paint on oven cleaner to clean it in situ as it is quite easily damaged. Lakeland do one. If that doesn't work, then the whole oven unit will have to come out of the kitchen carcass and the the top and rear oven covers removed for access. Try espares for the part. If you want to check the oven temperature before you start, Lakeland do an oven temperature thermometer for about £5 which I have found is accurate.

If the timer/clock has failed then you will need a new one and it is available form espares at about £85 pounds. If you have not worked with electricity and not that practical then you should call an engineer in. You will probably have to take the entire oven out of its housing, to take the top off, although the front panel comes off relatively easy.

Try espares. If the part is not listed, there is a contact on the website to obtain a quote for a part. Of course once you have the part number you can try elsewhere.

STOVES don't have any and from past experience are reluctant to help. I now have a copy in .pdf format for anyone who wants it. All I need is an email address to send it to you.

When the door is open, you will see some small cross head screws near where the hinges go into the door. These should be tight. If they are, then it could be the hinge failing. Try espares for a new set of hinges, but be warned you will have to take the entire oven out of its housing and both side panels off to get the the hinges.

Check the small screws in the door where the hinge goes into it. If they are tight then it is possibly the other end of the hinge. Unfortunately, to get to that you will need to take the oven out of its housing and then take the side panels off to gain access to the hinges.

First things first. The oven element is totally separate to the grill element. The clock has to have a time set for either the top or bottom oven to work, whereas the grill will work without the clock being set.
The control knob for the top oven is the ONLY control that will turn the top oven lights on, the grill does not turn the lights on. ( If you want to watch your toast, you have to turn the top oven switch on to the first setting as well as operating the grill control).
To prevent the grill being operated with the door shut, there is a micro-switch on the door hinge that allows the grill to operate ONLY when the door is down. The grill control also does not illuminate unless the door is down. There are two options on the grill control - right or left. One way is the inner element only and the other is both inner and outer ones.

The hob is normally totally independent of the oven. What is actually working or not working on the oven? i.e. does the grill still work, is the clock OK and can you set it, or is everything totally dead?

You have to remove the entire oven unit from the kitchen carcass. Once you have done this, you will need to take off the top and rear panels to gain access to the items you want.
There are normally screws holding the oven in place and a pair of these may be seen once the top oven door is down. They are located near the top of the opening on either side.

I have the same problem. After anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes the oven(s) switch off and the light and clock start flashing - I have to switch the cooker on and off to start using the oven again.

Any resolution please?

Hi,

I'm not in the habit of disagreeing with electrician/enginners who have inspected the appliance in person when giving online assistance. However, in this case, I have to point out that the electrician missed an essential component - the Safety Cut-Out. This is in series between the control panel and the element and I suspect this is the part that needs to be replaced - it's done it job.

Many safety cut-outs/fuses are a one shot deal - once they blow, they have be replaced. This would correspond with the testing done by the electrician. There is power to the board and no power at the element.

I'm not entirely sure where the Safety Cut Out is in your oven but it definitely has one. It could be located within the control panel or close to the element. Either way, they are fairly cheap and I've posted a link to the part at a supplier who I've used often and recommend:

http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/Cooker+%252526+Oven+Parts/Cuisina+Spares/Oven+Safety+Thermostats/082808901+Stoves+Diplomat+Belling+Safety+Cut+Out+Thermostat.html

If I can find an image of the part and/or confirm the location of it within your oven, I will post back later this evening. Please keep checking this message for updates.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
BElectric.

I think the only way you are going to do this is take the oven out again and using the wiring and schematic diagrams in the handbook, trace the wiring using a meter to find out what is not happening. It could be the overheat sensor that has eventually failed. Also given the age of the product some of the wiring may have failed.
If you need a handbook, supply an email address and I will send you a pdf copy.

It sounds like the thermostat has gone faulty or lazy. As a check, I suggest you buy the round oven thermomater from Lakeland - I think it is about £5.00 to see what the actual temperature is being achieved. Also check the sensor in the oven. It is the long thin tube located at the top rear right hand side of the oven above the circulating fan cover. The sensor should be clean and bright not covered with grease etc as this may cause incorrect readings. Don't attempt to clean it manually as it is fragile - use a brush on cleaner - again from Lakeland and follow the instructions on the label. If you have to replace the thermostat you will have to take the whole oven out of its kitchen cabinet - the handbook tells you how to do this.

You can try espares. If it is not listed, there is normally a help section where you can send in a request. You will need the model number as well to ensure you obtain the right version. (It could be something like 059040415).
If you want to check what the oven is doing before buying the new parts, Lakeland do a reasonably priced oven thermometer, I think about 4 or 5 pounds to see what temperatures it is reaching. Also check the thermostat sensor. It is the long thin cylinder in the top right hand corner of the oven. It should be clean as a whistle and not covered in grease gunge etc. If it is, this could cause incorrect readings. Don't attempt to clean it manually as it is quite fragile, especially the connecting wire. Leave the sensor in situ and use a paste on oven cleaner which really works ( from Lakeland) and follow the instructions. it should come up bright and shiny. Best of luck.

Go to Lakeland and buy there oven thermometer - it is about £5. If that confirms the oven is not working as per the readings on the dial, i.e. 160 on the oven control dial is not shown on the thermometer, check the thermostat sensor. It is located at the rear top right hand side of the oven above the heating fan cover. It is about 6 inches long and thin, connected by an even thinner wire. It can be very brittle so treat it with care! It should be bright clean and shiny, if it is greasy and black, that may be your problem. Again from Lakeland buy there brush on oven cleaner and follow the instructions. I use it on all of the oven including the stay clean panels. Brush the liquid on and leave it for as long as necessary. The liquid gradually dissolves all the grease. You can keep reapplying and then when you are satisfied it is clean, wash it off and then dry it with kitchen towel as carefully as possible. try the oven again and see what happens. If you need a new thermostat, try espares and you will have to take the whole oven out of the kitchen carcass and then remove the top and rear panels to do the job.
(The thermostat may just be lazy, so if the Lakeland thermometer shows only 10 degrees out all through the range, I would live with that. Just make adjustements when you use it. My top oven is 15 degrees out).