20 Most Recent Jl Audio 500/1 Car Audio Amplifier - Page 6 Questions & Answers

YOU GOT A SHORT SOMEWHERE IN UR WIRES OR A BAD CONNECTION I WOULD DIFFIENETLY CHECK THOSE THINGS FIRST THEN LET ME KNOW IF IT STILL DOESNT WORK PROPERLEY

number one did you install the subs youreself..it could be you have a double coil not installed right for full potential connect red to red and black to black on the back of youre spkr but if its a regular coil dont worrie about it ,,and also set amp to low pass and also bridge it so it would reach full potential .

the manual is black and white and has 13 pages, but you say you have alot concern that the amp was used, if so you should give onlinestereo a call and let them know. just get the model and serial number from off of the box they came in.

Usually all amps spark a little when hooked up again after a while of no use. this happen cause there are many little capacitors inside to keep the amp running when hitting long bass notes. I think the reason you have been having problem after replacing the transistors is because there not the rite model number or maybe the polarity. You mite have to call jl and ask them if they have any in stock or google the model number of the transistor and buy them and replace them and see if it work. if it doesnt work then it mite be something else inside.

The thing about Jl audio amp is that you have to choose between using the sub output or the the rca output. In order to use the rca output you will have to switch a switch next to the gain level. And it should be label low/high voltage. If you want to use the sub output then leave it on low if you want to use the rca output then switch it to high. I hope that solve your problem

Hey man i have that same problem, have you ever figured out what the problem was???

here you are. http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/DriverDownload.jsp?prodNameId=99905&lang=en&cc=us&taskId=135&prodTypeId=321957&prodSeriesId=96403

is there a green light? does it go red? the unit could be auto-protecting from your speakers, are they old speakers?

yes you have a internal fault of the amp. the circuit that puts it into safe mode is bad and that is a very small chip on the board know as a op amp. needs to be repaired.

you may have the ohm load to low and the amp is over heating or it need more air and ventilation. use a small computer fan or make sure it is clear on all side so air can get to it.

who learned you how to spoke

THERE ARE NO EXTERNAL FUSES ON THE AMPLIFIER. THEY ARE RELYING ON YOU TO INSTALL ONE WHEN PROVIDING POWER TO IT DURING THE INSTALLATION. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE.....V

-Did you verify that you have an input signal?
-Is the amp going into protection?
-If they are bridged mono, are they bridged across the appropriate terminals?
-If there is a subwoofer line out on your head unit is it muted or turned off?

check the wiring on the back of the subs and try to hook them up different ways to see if the wiring is canceling itself out

you need to upgrade your electrical system.

First easy thing you can do is buy a bigger battery. Get a battery with the highest cold cranking amps(cca) that will fit. Yellow top would be great.

If you have the $$ have a higher amp alternator put in. these are very expensive.

this is an advanced solution, and any vehicle with a big amp should have this done. Its called a big 3 upgrade.

Get some at least 2 awg hook up wire. you will need enough to run a wire to the neg of the battery to the chassis to your altinator. and enough to run from the pos on the bat to the pos on the altinator. and from the neg to the frame of the car.

Use copper lugs and solder them on the ends of the wires. Use a blow torch and pliers to hold it and heat it up. Melt solder into it about half way full, and then push stripped end into it, then squelch it with a damp cloth and wipe it off.

Do this for all, and hook everything up.

You can install a CAP if you want. I personally don't believe in them. They help the car dimming a little, but the lower the voltage at the amp.

about $7,000 but i found one on sale for $3,700

Hi,
Is this a new amp? Have you had it working before? Also are the speakers/subs known to be good and working and wired properly? Once I have a lot more information I will do my best to assist you further.
Thank you,
Lee

The amplifier that you have is very advanced and has many settings available to modify the sound to your Kicker Sub. Here is a PDF document that goes into details the function of your amps different settings and connections. You can view it here http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/Switches_Knobs.pdf

Obviously the 12VDC connection is your power wire that should come directly from the battery with the proper guage wire and a correct sized in-line fuse. The ground connection will connect to a metal part of the vehicle that is grounded to the battery. And the remote connection will connect to the amp turn-on wire that comes out of your car stereo. The pre-amp output selection will only be used if you are going to hook up an additional amplifier to use along with the JL. the infrasonic filter is an advanced filter that cuts off a certain frequency range to help protect vented subs(in a box with a vent hole) from over excursion(moving in and out too far) and the other knobs are to adjust the high, mid , and low frequency of the sub. These settings will have to be adjusted by you while listening to the performance of the sub and there is no way to tell you exactly where you should set them. The amp lp filter will allow you to turn off certain frequencies from even being played on the speaker. The amplifier input selection helps to control the sound that comes in from the radio(if it is directly from the speaker wires or the pre-amp rca outputs). And the sub-woofer outputs are what connect to you sub and supply the sound to it. Let me know if you have any questions.

make sure your wiring is correct.. negative to negative positive to positive.

That means something isn't wired right. Make sure that all of the power inputs from the battery are correct. Most importantly make sure no bare wires are touching (IE the positive and negative bare wires going to the subwoofer terminal.) If it keeps persisting, check the voltage level in the car and make sure it is normal, because some fancy amps have protection where it will go into protect mode if the amplifier is not getting enough power to supply. Also, does this happen when you are really bumping (like high volume) or just the second its on it cuts? Because when you really play it loud and it cuts, sometimes you are putting too much a load on the amp. Make sure the fuse in the amplifier is the correct fuse for the amplifier.