20 Most Recent Jl Audio 500/1 Car Audio Amplifier - Page 5 Questions & Answers

what do you have hooked up to it? Subs, Speaker, so on. it sounds like it is going into protection because of improper wiring... or it was improperly wired. if it is malfunctioning you need to take it to an authorized JL audio dealer. It's going to cost some cash unless you have a warranty on it and it was installed by a liscensed technician.

Did you check the fuse(s) on the amp itself ?
One or more of those fuses are for protection on the output side of your amp.
What about the 12 volt power from your battery, have you checked for 12 volts present at the input power side of your amp?
Don't forget that you need just as good of a ground as you need power supply!!!!!
Good luck !

The amplifier will not power on unless/until it recieves the turn-on signal from the head unit.

It seems the issue is with the head unit in this case.

Check the fuses and verify constant and switched power with a multimeter.

Once the Head unit powers on - the amplifier should also.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

What may of happened if that you got the lacquer finish on the electromagnetic wire to heat up and come apart. At low volume they will still have an electric connection. Because the wire physically came off from the inner housing of the voice coil it is in contact with the side wall of the speaker magnet and is proned to causing a short between coil sets. Your probably running subs with a 4 ohm impedance and when your coils short it acts more like a 2 or 1 ohm speaker. This is similar to whats called a dead short. Since the Independence is dropped to 2 or 1 ohm it is the resistance equivalent of having 2 or 4 subs attached to your amplifier which caused the final transistor bridge to heat up and it can get hot almost instantly. Check your amps outputs individually on a single speaker that you know works perfectly. If your amp does not trip the thermal protection you most likely cooked a speaker beyond usable condition.

you have your sub wired incorrectly. your amp shouldn't get hot unless you're settings are too high or your'e sending too small of an ohm load to the amp. this would cause it to heat up and will fry your amp.

what do you mean by push

also tell me how toy have wired it

just go through ur connections man one by one ull find the prob soon.....check teminals on battery...power line to amp ....all fuses within prob area and obviously make sure u have a good ground.....really impotant.....ground is the most neglected thing people do from my experience bein a audio tech oh and if that isnt it check ur subs....stick a 9v batt on the back pos n neg of each sub n c if they pop in r out this will determine if ur subz r blown

some people like to hook up thier cd player up to direct power by twisting both power wire together. this will cause your cd player to come on at any time with out a key, so in your case almost sounds like your remote wire is hooked up to a constent power source maybe double check bout the wiring on the head unit, if it is ok might wanna have it checked out by a local AUDIO dealer

TRY EBAY for a blown amp as parts or try your local JL or any kind of Audio dealer. hope this was helpful

Seems like the KICKER is pulling to much power try to knock it back up to 4ohm and see what happens. If its fine that way then you might need a bigger amp.

make sure the remote lead is working properly

need more information.... but sounds like you are trying to push too much.... need a bigger amp? what type radio? what size speakers? how many speakers?

first things first. Disconnect everything. (Though if it smokes it might be too late.) Then try connecting things back one at a time starting with power. Make sure that none of you speaker wires is connected to chassis ground. Audio ground and power ground should not necessarily connect.

Check the wires for a lose connection or corrosion. You may need a capacitor.

Basically, at low power the amplifier is not asking for a lot of power from the electrical system to power your sub woofer. For lack of a better term and probably the best way to explain it is. It uses up all the power in the wires leading to it at a high volume, and has to wait for more. Kind of like when someone squeezes a garden hose when your trying to use it. That would be the high volume, starving the amplifier. The capacitor stores power in it to power the amp at high volume. 2 farads would probably be bulletproof on a single amplifier system, but 1 farad should work well enough. Or seek help from an expert on exactly what size capacitor you should use. If you find yourself saying: My amp cuts out.

If this assisted in solving your problem, please take the time to rate it. Thank you.

just a tad is all that it takes to throw it in protect mode so check the gain and the cross over and make sure they are set at a decent level and see if that works a little bit

silly as it sounds, you may want to check your EQ settings on your headunit. Things like sub volume, SLA, loudness and balance. When they replaced your battery, those old settings were lost.

contact Eric @ Capital Audio & Electronics Repair in Tallahassee,FL 850-339-1130 we repair all brands & models

Contact Eric @ Capital Audio & Electronics Repair 850-339-1130 we repair all name brands & all models Located in Tallahassee,Fl

Check the wires going to the amp for any corrosion on the terminals and ground.

. Kind of like when someone squeezes a garden hose when your trying to use it. That would be the high volume, starving the amplifier. The capacitor stores power in it to power the amp at high volume. 2 farads would probably be bulletproof on a single amplifier system, but 1 farad should work well enough. Or seek help from an expert on exactly what size capacitor you should use. If you find yourself saying: My amp cuts out.

If this assisted in solving your problem, please take the time to rate it. Thank you.

maybe it dont have enough to push it ,,did you try it before you buy it?