20 Most Recent Jl Audio 1000/1 Car Audio Amplifier - Page 6 Questions & Answers

i highly recomend you use the hifonics colossous and wire the subs @ 2 ohms and you would be right about nominal power handling for the W7 which is rated @ 1000W, and your amp would push about 1100W to it. just be carefull when adjusting. and the best advice i can give you on the settings is as follows: Turn up the volume to the desired listening average level. (what you would normally have it on when driving) then adjust your amp by turning the different controls up, and then back down a 1/4 turn after distortion occurs. in your case with so much power dont turn them up all the way right away ease into it be gradual listen to the change in the sound.

Just had a look at both amp and sub on the JL Audio website. The amp runs from 1.5-4ohms. 4ohms at 14.5V. The sub is running dual 4 ohms coils. That's what the D-4 means. So should be an easy set up. The amp has two mono outputs, so one for each coil. It looks like the perfect wattage to run the sub real nice.
Web page for amp: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=439
Web page for sub: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=18

disconnect power and remote for 15min

Go to the following Crutchfield website and see step by step information on ow to install an Amplifier.

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/pdfs/amp_guide.pdf

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Does the amp have a volt meter on it? That tends to be pretty helpful in determining if it has enough power. I had to run an 8 gauge wire from my battery to the amp to get enough current to power an audiobahn 6 channel 6601t, with a dual voice-coil audiobahn 12 inch eternal. In the summer mine hits a thermal protection unitl I roll down the windows and ventilate the car, but that does not sound like thermal to me. It could also be the wrong impedance for your amp/sub combo. If you are making these speakers distort, you should be deaf by now. a 1000 watt amp is no force to be reckoned with. Your sub is 1.5 to 4 ohms. I posted a link to where you can check if it is wired properly. If these are distorting, it sounds like you have these wired for the wrong impedance. There is no way you should be making this setup distort at all without blowing out windows. It could be that you need 2 batteries, or if you are a pro DIYer Get some A123 batteries from a dewalt product. They have insane discharge. But I would recommend just getting a new battery (see bottom link), and making sure you have a 4-8 gauge wire going to the amp. I know a lot about batteries, as I built my own EV, so tell me how you have these subs wired, and how you have the amp wired to the battery.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-B5qDIPXbsfV/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg
http://www.optimabatteries.com/audio_electronics/

If you see smoke, it's virtually always the power supply transistors. There are several things that can cause it but sometimes, they simply fail. I will generally work with people who want to repair their own amplifiers but the this JL amplifier is complex and not always an easy amplifier to repair.

If you can't find a local repair shop to repair it, you'll have to go through an authorized JL retailer to have it repaired by JL.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

If your radio and phone are synced up together, it probably muted the radio when the call came in then didn't un-mute. I'd try to reset the radio (disconnect the power for maybe 10 minutes) and try it then.

what type vehicle

Best bet is to send it back to JL, they do not sell the PCB with all of the components loaded on it. Most likely the transistors in the power supply have fried. Open it up and see if you can find any physical damage. Google the part numbers of the bad parts, and you should be able to fix it relatively easily. www.digikey.com is a great place for parts. Read this for more testing procedure: http://www.bcae1.com/ampfail.htm The whole site is wonderful, really.

If the battery is at or above 12v and the voltage at the amp (measured directly across the terminals of the amp) is 5v, that would require hundreds of amps of current which should easily blow the 80 amp fuse. If the fuse is defective, is would account for the voltage drop without excessive current draw.

Have you checked the ground connection between the amp and the vehicle's chassis ground point?

The amp may have blown output transistors and that's why the voltage is being pulled down so far. This should have blown the fuse. If you're using an AGU fuse or there is corrosion, these could also cause the voltage to drop.

Measure the voltage across the fuse holder when you turn the amp on. If the voltage is more than 2v, replace the fuse.

If the power supply feeding the amp is OK, it should have blown the fuse well before the voltage dropped to 5v. What size/type fuse do you have in the power wire feeding the amp?

The amber is the low impedance indicator and can mean that the impedance of the load is too low or there is an internal fault (shorted output transistors).

The blue LED indicates that the voltage is too low. This can be due to a bad connection or low battery voltage.You need to measure the DC voltage across the B+ and ground terminals of the amp to confirm that they're at or above 12v.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

What size fuse are you using?

Have you checked the speaker to determine if it's damaged?

Do the speaker and amp produce clean sound up to the point where the fuse blows?

there is a short check all connections carefully.. im betting it is your speaker connections

I dont know how you blew both subs with a 1000/1. the subs have an rms of about 400w. according to jl,the sweet spot for them is about 500-600watts. are you sure that you had the jumpers wired correctly and the amp at 2ohms?

my amp did same shit, its the rca cabbles, check them out at the back of the head unit. the input jack is probably bad on the head unit

Make sure your multimeter is set for AC voltage. 

Well this is interesting, Let me start by saying if you have a 2 ohm load and your system is set for 4 ohms you are going to overdrive your load and burn up your amplifier, maybe not right away, but sooner or later it will fail due to electrical and thermal stress bought on by power dissipation issues.

Yes you can get 2000 watts out of your amps, but the correct way is to bridge your amplifiers if you can, and terminate them into the proper load.

Thank you,

Shuttle83