20 Most Recent Jl Audio 1000/1 Car Audio Amplifier - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Do you have a direct power feed from your first amp to your second? also, how is the second amp earthed, dont earth it in the same place as the first and see if this makes any differance

954-443-1100 is the service department, sounds to me like your amp is slowly but surely frying itself. i am not sure putting a new transistor in it will help anything but you can try. There only around 15 dollars

Hello, It sounds like you may have a problem with one of your subs. If this problem was not happening before that's what I would suspect. You need to check the ohms of both subs seperately, make sure you don't have a half blown sub. Second you need to test the voltage going into the amp while playing at a decent volume to see if there is a major drop in voltage. Also, check your ground. You'd be surprised at the many people who bring there cars to my shop with similar problems and turns out the ground was bad or loose. I would doubt there is something wrong internaly with your amp. The problem lies in the wiring or speakers. As you said it only started doing this after 3 or 4 months after it was installed. It's cutting off at high volumes cause it can't draw the power it needs at the higher volume, so make sure you check all your wiring good. Let me know what you find, I would like to be able to help you more if for some reason you can't figure it out. I own a shop and also do amplifire repair. Hope this helps. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mark_b53a7494531bf96d

the bass controls bypasses the gain on that channel by using the control as the gian level so jus unplug the control and set the gain accorindly

Sounds like a bad power supply

Need more info. Are you sying that your lights pulse to the bass? Capacitors help. I would recomend at LEAST a 2 farad. Make sure you are using GOOD QUALITY 4 gauge power wire. So many "kits" say 4 gauge, but strip it back and you have a glorified 8 guage wire. I've seenit. Also, MAKE SURE that it is ran to the bayttery and use the SAME gauge for the ground (no more that 4 feet if possible).

In case your next question is "how do I hook up a Cap?", here it goes:

Power AND ground to the cap, then power AND ground from cap to the amp input. So very easy!!

Take care,
Larry T
Winona Lake, IN
http://www.cybersoundsaudio.com/cybersounds/vehiclepics.html

well start with. turn your hi pass completely off. Turn your bass boost completely off. Turn your input gain copletely down. and turn your cd player to about 3/4 of what you listen to it at. Then turn your input up until it starts to sound a little dirty(distortion) then turn it down a notch. set it at a 80 herz filter so it allows nothing over 80 herz to come through. I just installed one of these jl amps a week ago. 1400.1 and it made two kicker cvt's sound amazing just have to set it just exactly like i told you. it will hit tight as hell and loud and it will hit all frequencies way better.

you have your amp wired at too low of an ohm load for the amplifier. This is why it is doing this. Jl amps are awesome and pretty much make everything idiot proof. Not calling you an idiot but go online and search for that model on JL.com then look on either the box your subwoofers came in or on the back of your subwoofers. Find out which ohm load they are and how many voice coils. Next go to www.the12volt.com and find the subwoofer wiring diagrams close to the top of the page. Then enter in your information on your sub's impedence and how many you have then it will give you the wiring options that you have and it will probly tell you you are wired at like a .5 ohm load. And let me guess you turn it up too long or too loud and your amp gets hot and it goes into protection.

Hello evopower,

The JL 1000/1 will power the Orion HCCA OK.

It is stable only to 1.5 ohms so your best choice would be the 15.4 with dual 4ohm voice coils. In parallel, this would offer a 2ohm impedance. The 15.2 could only be wired for either a 1ohm load (too low) or a 4ohm load (less power).

Hope this helps.

did you test for power at the amp, you should have 12 volts when the deck is on at the amp on the power and pto terminals. Also check and maybe reground the amp

Hello l_miller36,

Depending on how much you paid for the amp on eBay, and how well you like the JL product, it may very well be worth the money to get it fixed. As for the wallet damage, you'll have to ask JL or one of their dealers. But, since the Slash2's routinely sell for over $1,000, I'd estimate the cost to be pretty high.

First, I'd send an email to JL Audio tech support and see if they have a "flat-rate" repair option or if they can give you an estimate of the repair costs. My second option would be to talk to a local car audio shop that does component level repairs. In the first case, you'd get exact replacement parts and whatever warranty JL gives on repairs. Not so with the local option, but it would most likely be less expensive.

Hope this helps, good luck.

Set your gains correctly. You are overdriving the sub, causing the voice coil to bottom out. Go to www.jlaudio.com and go to the support / tutorials section and it will have a tutorial in there that will tell you how to properly set your gains. The same information is also in the owners manual that should have come with your w7, and probably also says how in your amplifier owners manual.

The jl100/1v2 puts out the same amount of power between 1.5 - 4 ohm loads so you dont have to really set up anything to match your sub- wire the coils in parrallel and plug it in- set infrasonic(subsonic) filter at 15 hz(lowest) set crossover piont at close to 80 hz set gain about half-or if you kow the voltage from your source unit match the source voltage to the amps input voltage setting-it should pound like a champ with no problems

Holy mackerel you have a ton of power i bet that ****** is loudddddd-sounds like your charging system isnt quite keeping up with the amount of current draw that your amps can pull.Upgrade your alternator and look into a dual battery system using an isolator-that way your alt will charge both batteries but your amps will only pull off the one battery-you can look online into how to set that up its not that hard for someone that has managed to install the gear that you already have- Some folks if not most would encourage you to get some sort of capacitor to store power blahblahblah-BUT a dual battery system has waaaaayyyy more storage capacity than a capacitor does-check out the pro competitors online they arent using capacitors to run their stuff they use banks and banks of batteries to get their power-brother you need more juice

do you have the amp knobs cranked?? gain and freq

You can buy Panel mount RCA (Phono) jacks at Radioshack, I think a 4 pack is less than 5 bucks, That should take care of your problem.

Good Luck,

Stay Classy

B.

it depends on how you wired your 13 w7 did you wire the dual voice coils up or down?? the w7 comes with a book and it has the 1000/1 settings you need and then there is a guide that comes with your 1000/1 v2 and on page 14 it tells you how to set the gain accordingly to your ohm load for perfect sounds with little to no gain overlap (you can set the gain louder if you don't want maximum sq and are not worried about clipping cause a 1000/1 shouldn't blow a 13 w7 from overpowering only from clipping (and since the w7 are practically bullet proof clipping takes a long time)

well you need to check to see if nt no shottage with the amp and also check if the fuse is not to low amp 20,,,, 25 if not put the amp in a separet 12 volt battery

it is all up to the user, you can start by turning the input up slightly, I would not go over halfway because it usually starts to distort, then the bass boost up till they distort a little then back down a quarter turn.

nice set up, how many speakers are you running? you have something wired up weird causing the ohm level to drop to low. we can fix this let me know and ill help you.