20 Most Recent Norelco Reflex Shaver 5885XL Electric Shaver Questions & Answers

When your shavers batteries get old enough, they will internally short out or severely corrode. If they internally short out, you will not be able to run the shaver even on the cord. If the batteries are severely corroded, the corrosion may interfere with the switch or wiring causing it not to work. To get it running, you will need to change the batteries and maybe do some work with the wiring and/or switch. Batteries can be purchased at shaveroutlet.com. They also do repairs if you need it ShaverOutlet com The Ultimate Shaver Source

Sounds strange, since I don't think that the HQ5 heads in the shaver have the pointy parts that other shaver heads have. If your comb has 2 pointy edges, make sure they are located correctly in the head housing - they will need to be located inwards, with the the spindle that the retaining bracket attaches to in the center of the the two pointy parts.

But apart from placing the combs in first, locating the cutters in then putting the retaining bracket in (which may be broken if it won't fasten properly) I'm not sure what you can do, other than calling your local Philips Service Centre,

You will fin the correct replacement blades for model 5885XL at shaveroutlet.com. See link below

http://shaveroutlet.com/shaver-replacement-parts/norelco-philips-hq5-reflex-action-replacement-heads-p-246.html

You will find the correct battery pack for model 5885XL at shaveroutlet.com. See link below. Price is included on page

http://shaveroutlet.com/shaver-battery-pack-for-most-norelco-more-p-278.html

I think you just need a new battery. I used to take my shaver to a shaver repair place to have the battery changed. Then they moved so I tried a place that specialized in batteries (car batteries, toy batteries, etc). They also were able to repair it but for 1/4th of what I used to pay the shaver repair place.

You will find the correct batteries for model 5885XL at shaveroutlet.com. See link below

http://shaveroutlet.com/shaver-replacement-parts/shaver-battery-pack-for-most-norelco-more-p-278.html

To open shaver, remove two screws on the back. You will have to slide up trimmer to access the second screw. Remove back cover. Remove snap in plastic clip that obstructs your access to the batteries. For easier replacement, it is suggested that you use a modified installation technique. This is to break the tabs off of the old batteries rather than unsoldering them from the circuit board. This allows the old batteries to be removed but leaves the tabs attached to the circuit board. You can then solder the tabs from the new batteries to the old existing tabs

You should always use the same type batteries that your shaver was designed to be used with. Your shaver was designed for use with NiCd batteries. If you have use NiMH batteries this may be causing the problem you described.
However, I would say that it is more likely that you have some sloppy solder that is bridging something that is not supposed to touch. You should check the battery solder joints on the circuit board and clean up any sloppy solder work that may be there.

model 5885 will automatically handle 100-240v

if interested, I would like to buy your shaver for spare parts?

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I just installed two brand new Eneloop cells and it will only charge up to 35 minutes on the display (I had been able to get up to 52 minutes with the original NI-CAD's). I also discovered that it would not recognize the capactiy on the minute meter until I drained the batteries and recharged the unit. When I went to drain the batteries they ran for 2 hours and 15 minutes!!! But again the display only shows 35 minutes right now after an hour charge when it says FULL. I'll leave it on the charger and see what happens. I used a pair of needle nose pliers and "rolled" the metal tabs off the NI-CAD's. Snapped the one on the negative side but got the positive side off clean. I couldn't get the strips to solder back to the new Eneloop batteries so I had to use electrical tape which seems to be holding fine. The battery holder holds the positive and negative terminals against the old tabs just fine. Also I learned that if you hold the power button on long enough it will cycle through a test function. It will go to zero minutes and all the way up to 35, then turn on and go back to zero stopping at the appropriate cleaning cycle times (takes about 40 seconds to do the test so don't touch the power button until it's done). Not sure if the batteries will still go 2 hours and 15 minutes after being charged in the shaver, but they do when chaqrged outside the shaver. Just my two cents!

Question edited for clarity. Two questions merged to one. Duplicate question deleted, refresh page to see your question. some Norelco spares are available https://www.google.com/search?q=replacement+heads+for+my+old+Norelco+Electric+Razor+type+HP1122 ..

I see some that are offered on E Bay https://www.ebay.com/itm/404374101537?chn=ps

It is possible that your shaver does not turn on or move because it is dirty. There can be hair or dirt particles stuck inside it, causing the shaving heads to be blocked. To fix this problem, properly clean your shaver. If possible, remove the shaving head and clean your shaver from the inside as well.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/125343/Philips-Norelco-8240xl.html#manual

It's true that Norelco does not sell parts for this unit, but you can buy a exact replacement for the pump motor here:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0146XUE4I/ref=cm_sw_r_api_i_KGSBKR1BPW349RR3YRSB_0?psc=1.The only difference will be the length of the replacement motor shaft is too long, but this can be modified using a Dremel cut-off tool. Getting to the motor is a bit involved, but it is possible to do so without breaking anything. You'll need a T-8 driver and a small flat screw screw driver Begin by releasing the bottom, remove the fluid cartridge, and turn the unit upside down. Find and remove the (3) T-8 screws along the bottom perimeter. Next, use the small flat screwdriver or plastic pry bar to lift the outer case over the upper edge of the rear power supply socket and slide the outer case down. You'll also need to press the cartridge release button to clear the case Slip the outer case off the bottom. You'll need to twist it somewhat to clear the base. Now find and unplug the two side wire connectors (purple/white and orange/white wires) and slide the rear power supply connector off of the back of the unit, leaving it connected to the circuit board Now find and remove the (4) silver T-8 screws holding the base to the circuit board. Back the screws out only far enough to separate the base from the circuit board, leaving them attached to the black base so as to make it easier to reinstall later Gently separate the base from the circuit board. You will feel a bit of resistance as a hose separates from the base. Note where it attaches for later reinstallation. Now we need to remove the "legs" to gain access to the bottom of the pump. Place the separated vase upright and compress the springs to lock the legs in closed position. Note the two hooked ends sticking up. You will be using the small flat screwdriver to pry these towards the center. Open the "legs" by pressing the side button. Slide the flat screwdriver down the side of the base and use it to pry the hook so you can pull the leg out. You'll have to pull slightly on the bottom while doing this until you feel the hook release, and then you'll move the screwdriver to the second hook on this leg and repeat. Then move to the other leg and do the same. It takes a bit of practice but it'll eventually release. Be gentle. Separate the leg unit from the rest of the base. Be careful not to tangle or damage the coil springs. Set the legs and springs aside. Inspect the bottom of the pump. Gently pry the bottom cap off of the pump with your fingernails. Gently pry the impeller off the bottom of the pump motor shaft using a tiny screwdriver. Be careful not to damage the impeller. Turn the pump unit over. Use small screwdriver to gently pop loose the pump motor restraint (3 points) Lift the pump motor out of the housing. You can now clean the housing. Remove the two seals from the impeller end of the motor. You will transfer these to the replacement motor. Use soldering iron to remove the wires from the old motor and solder them to the new motor. Use a Dremel tool to shorten the shaft of the replacement motor to match the length of the old motor.Installation is the reverse of removal except I recommend saving reinstallation of the "legs" and springs for last - put everything else together first, including the outer case. Then line up the springs and legs and carefully press them together.

Was the polarity correct? Did you leave on to charge for a few hours. If yes to all that, then yes, the board has failed.