20 Most Recent Kicker CompVR 05CVR84 Car Subwoofer Questions & Answers

At least 3 cubic feet. Less if you're going to port it. There are online calculators for box and port sizes if you have the specs on your sub and the type of music you like.

Are you running an aftermarket amp? If so follow the instructions, if not hook the factory wiring to the new speakers. Some times the terminals wont fit, you can occasionally find adapter wires but I just usually cut off the factory terminals and solder on the new speaker compatible ones. The wire with the stripe is positive

Really it all depends on how you want them to sound, and to be set up. There really is not specific air space, but there are general air spaces that work, and some times the manufacture will list some specs for different set ups. It also depends on the size of the sub, which you did not specify.

Kicker recommends as follows.

0.4 cubs per sub for a compact box, and 1.8 for an SQ box. SQ stand for sound quality.

So if you want a small box, do .4 per sub. If you want a better sounding box do 1.8.

Rule of thumb and something to think about.

The more air space in the sub, the less power you can run, the less air space, the more power you can run.

For example you can run 200 watts RMS per sub at .4 cubes, but only 140 watts RMS with 1.8.

As well, the smaller box will be louder, But not sound as good.

I would recommend MDF wood not particle board. Recommended Enclosure SpecificationsRecommended Enclosure TypePorted / VentedSealedMinimum Sealed Box Volume0.4 cubic feetMaximum Sealed Box Volume1.8 cubic feetMinimum Ported Box Volume0.8 cubic feetMaximum Ported Box Volume1.22 cubic feetTop-Mount Depth4-5/16"Cutout Diameter7-1/16"Shallow Mount InstallationNo

-Run the 12v power wire (usually the longest wire in the kit, mostly red, typically ranges from 8 gauge to 0 gauge) from the battery through the firewall and then to the amp. You can find a hole somewhere in the bottom right of the firewall. Don't connect the power wire to the battery or the amp just yet.-Find a solid metal ground somewhere near the amplifier. You'll need to stay within 2-3 feet of the amplifier to maintain the best ground connection. A way you can do this is pull up the carpet and scrape the metal until it is bare metal with no paint left on it. If the amplifier is to be mounted in the trunk, many times bolts from the suspension can be found directly above one of the rear wheels. These suspension components usually bolt directly to the frame, making them an ideal grounding point.-Pull the aftermarket CD player out of the dash. There is a blue wire with a white stripe hanging out of the back of the deck known as the remote wire. The remote wire is a simple 12v signal that the cd player outputs to tell the amplifier to turn on.-Take your remote wire that came in your amp kit and splice/solder it onto that blue-whitestriped wire and run it through the dash and then along the door jam-While you have the CD player removed, plug the RCA white and red plugs into the back of the deck where it says "Subwoofer Output." If your cd player does not have a "Subwoofer Output", or if you are using a stock cd player, you will need a device called an inline converter. It's a small box that has 4 input wires and the 2 necessary RCA output that will run to the amplifier. It takes the high level speaker voltage and drops it to a low level signal the amplifier can process. The 4 input wires can be connected to the rear speakers (+ and - for left and right).-Run all the wires straight back to the amplifier.you should run the power and remote control down the right as factory speaker wires run down the left due to fire risks if the power cable shorts out and you have your speaker cables down the same side it will blow your headdeck (cd player). RCA cables should be run down the center of the car as RCA cables can pick up sounds from wire looms and also air con vents power wires.-Use Speaker Wire to connect sub-woofers to amplifier. Gauge isn't extremely important here, as long as the wire is copper, the resistance-per-foot is in the million range, meaning there will be miniscule, if any, voltage drop across the wire.-Hopefully by now you have a subwoofer box/enclosure. There are many different types of enclosures (sealed, vented, bandpass, infinite baffle, etc.). There are numerous articles explaining the pros and cons of each type of enclosure, far too many to list in this article. If you really want the best response possible, your subwoofer manual will list the ideal enclosure volume for each type of enclosure. If you don't want to go through all of the volume calculations, just buy a box slightly bigger, and stuff it with pillow stuffing from walmart until the subs respond the way you want them to.-Be sure to know the impedance of the subwoofer(s) you are using and try to match the amplifier's impedance accordingly. For example, if you have an amp that is 500w@4ohms, and 1000w@2ohms, you'll want to try to run your speakers at 2 ohms. 2 4ohm subs can be wired in parallel to achieve this. If you're new to the impedance calculations, many amplifiers will have specific wiring diagrams in their manuals to assist.-Put a fuse into 12v wire in the engine bay no more than 0.5m away from battery. If your amp kit came with an "inline fuse holder", you'll want to find a nice location to mount it in your engine bay. Once it's secure, cut a length of the power wire to reach the fuse, and connect it to one side of the fuse holder. The other side (the side you just cut) is stripped and connected to the other side of the fuse holder.-Connect the power wire to your battery. There's nice ring connectors and even new battery terminals you can buy (and sometimes come with the amp kit), that make the battery connection much more solid, and looks better too.-Lastly, connect the battery cable to the amplifier. Then under the hood clamp the wire down to the battery. A word of warning, sometimes you'll see a nice big spark the first time you touch the power wire to the battery. Don't worry about it! This is the amplifier charging the huge capacitors contained inside.-Do not turn up the volume or gain too high or you may produce clipping in the subwoofers. This is where the output of the amplifier peaks and stays there for a split-second. This is bad for the subwoofer because it holds the cone (the big circle part!) in it's fully extended or fully compressed state for the duration of the clip. Not only are you not producing a single decibel of sound during this microsecond, but you're also working the voice coil very hard and damaging it. A good rule for beginners is to play a nice loud song of your genre at your cd players 3/4 volume setting. Now, with the gain at zero, turn it up until it's obvious that it isn't getting any louder. The gain knob isn't a "volume" knob by any means. A gain knob should usually never be at it's full position.

For optimal performance there is really only one size for the box .Firstly, you get two different types of subwoofers, an open air, or closed air sub. If it is an open air sub ( hole with mesh in the center of the magnet) no ports are required, and the box should be sealed on the inside with silicone sealant. If it is a closed air sub ( no hole in the magnet) you need a 50mm port about 120mm long. If it is a 12 inch sub the box size will be 13 inches x 13 inches x 13 inches. Hope this helps

I think you are asking about wiring you sub in parallel.

Positive on the sub to the other positive on the sub - then off to the + output of the amp

Negative on the sub to the other negative on the sub - then off to the negative of the amp

It will not hurt the sub, however you need to make sure that the amp you are using will be ok with the load you are presenting it.

1. Visit the following link: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-jXlGCwReN8E/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html
2. Choose which column your amplifier falls under, then find the number of subs you have, followed by the voice coil configuration.
   

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

You need a jumper. Use a small length of speaker wire to connect one positve and negative together.Then run the other positve and negative to the connectors in the box.

If they are single voice coil and are 4 ohm you can bridge your amp and run both speakers off of it so your amp sees a 2 ohm load....better bass that will hit harder....(series wiring) look it up on google....

Here is the link to wiring speakers/subs

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-cgSECUmngLm/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html

It depends on the box you are installing them in. If you're going for sealed box they you can put 600-800 watts on them as long as you're careful with the gains and bass boost off. In a ported enclosure I wouldn't put more than 600 rms on them and still be careful with the gains. set your filter on your amp to about 80 hertz and match it on your source unit.

Ok, without knowing if you have the 2 or 4 Ohm Dual Voice Coil (DVC) version of the subwoofer, I'm going to assume you have the dual 4 Ohm version. The reason why is because, assuming you have the Pioneer GM-5300T amp, that amp does not support an 8 Ohm load. If you wire it in parallel, that would give you a 2 Ohm load. Parallel will be solid red connected to red/white dot, then to amp +, and solid black to black/white dot to amp -. Without knowing more specifics on the amp, that should fix the problem. Let me know what you get.

1. Check Grounding system (Player and Power Amp).
2. Ensure your RCA cable is OK
3. You might adjust volume or bass volume on power amp to maximum, just set all to 50% while you are tuning.
4. Check the speaker out cables might contact the ground/ chassis

check this link out, it will give u all the options u need to correctly wire it up for your application.
http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html

Are the connection tight? Do you have a good ground? Does the coil, when pushed down gently, move freely? If it moves rough, the coil is bad. check those.