20 Most Recent Turbo Air 72 cu. ft. / 2039 liter Commercial Freezer TSF-72SD / TSR-72SD Questions & Answers

Is it a fridge or freezer, and what are the symptoms, in detail? Is all working normally, just not switching off? Check condenser clear and clean, and try turning thermostat down to 1 (if mechanical) or up to 40 (if electronic)

Yes. The heater is there to prevent condensation. If you disconnect it you may get moisture on the glass. If you cut the wires be sure to tape them up.

When the temp gets back down to running temp the vacuum will return if the gaskets are properly installed. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

http://www.bunnomatic.com/
try this site and see if you can determine what you are looking for. You gave no model number.

Behind the grille on the bottom is a drain pan. May have a crack in it.

That is known as a puffed capacitor and usually indicates a power supply problem as well. The cap can be changed with a 50/50% chance to work again unless it took out other components.

Since there is no mention of the refrigerant, and some models are now using R-290 (propane), it's hard to tell what these pressures represent. My suggestion is to remove the refrigerant and weigh in the exact amount the manufacturer requires. This eliminates alot of guess work and is usually the best place to start.

If everything else is in proper working order, either a refrigerant level issue or and expansion device issue. If system constantly runs the previous, if not, possible temperature control. Look for system cycling or not cycling.

this could be an issue with the defrost cycle. if ice build up accumulates the on the inside coil (evaporator), it restricts the air flow and you get alarms for being out of temp. usual signs are ice build up around the coil area. look for that first. be sure the door closes and seals too.

without a model number, I can only tell you the general function of most freezers. Theory is that the bi-metal is probably a defrost heater safety to prevent overheating. A sensor of some type will prevent the evaporator fan from coming on until the evaporator temp hits a preset temperature. Some freezers are setup to terminate on either time or temperature, whichever occurs first. Hope this helps some. Need model number for further help.

Hello,

Let's start by diagnosing the freezer;

Fan problem is one of the most common reasons for the freezer to start failing, this is called "frost free failure." Ice can build up on the evaporator coils over time, and this ice builds up until it starts blocking the fan. The fan is responsible for circulating cold air throughout the freezer, so if it is blocked the freezer will not be able to freeze any food. You can usually check this by removing an access panel in the back of the freezer to inspect the coils. If ice is built up on the coils, a hairdryer can assist in defrosting them.

It's also possible that the fan is not running at all. If the fan is burned out or the motor isn't running, cold air can't circulate through the freezer and everything will melt. You can normally hear the fan motor switch on and off from time to time. Listen for it and if you can't hear it coming on for an extended period of time, the motor may need repair or replacement. The wires connecting to the fan may be the problem, preventing the fan from receiving electricity.

Several other problems could be keeping your freezer from freezing:

There could be leaks in one or several of the hoses in the refrigerator, which results in the cold air being lost instead of circulating properly throughout the fridge and freezer.

If you have the freezer so full that the cold air can't circulate, your food will thaw even though the freezer isn't malfunctioning. Always leave some space open in the freezer and try to not store food right up against the cooling vents.

The thermostat might have shorted out, which means the freezer can't accurately determine how cold it is. If this is the case, the refrigerator would probably not be working, either.

If your defrost drain becomes clogged, the water in the line will just refreeze over and over again, which could damage the lines as well as the fan. Always check the drain and make sure no sludge is building up in it if you have a self-defrosting refrigerator.

Always try to keep the freezer door closed for long periods of time. The more the door is opened, the more warm air is let in and cold air is released. If the door is opened frequently, the freezer could be warming faster than the fridge can cool it, which will thaw your food........

Take care.

Change the defrost control.

Hi Tim, I really don't believe you need a charge unless you have had to charge it in the past, because of a leak. What you want to do, find the compressor on this unit, below in back or front, or some are on top. Make sure you feel it running, and see if the condenser fan motor by the compressor is also running. Check the condenser coil and make sure its clean, and make sure the indoor evaporator fan is running. These are things you can check on your own to find out if something is going on with a part. The only time a unit needs freon is if it has had a leak in the passed, and it was never repaired, so it lost its charge when it was shut down for sometime. Check these things and get back to me. We can figure this out.
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor

http://www.turboairinc.com/TB-Sale%20Network/TB-Sales.html
go to this web site and it will show you where the places you can purchase parts.
Are you sure it's the control and not just a temp probe not reading correctly. If it reads a false number, the unit will either never shut off or never come on as the controller is controling based on incorrect information. You may want to look into that first. Control panels are not cheap.

you do not leave them alone they may have refrigerant flowing through them. look in your owners manual/instructions for more info.