20 Most Recent 2001 Mercedes-Benz C-Class Questions & Answers

Call the dealer ,is the best answer with a immobilisor problem

https://www.carstereocode.com/unlock.php?mk=26

I have a 2001 C240 with the same issue. I removed the positive battery cable from the battery and kept it off for 30 seconds then replaced it. Everything was reset and the key worked.

ATTENTION: You MUST HAVE one working remote to add one more to the system. If you do not have one working remote right now then these instructions will not work. You will have to have a Locksmith or dealership use a computer to program the first remote for you.Click here to find a Locksmith in your area to program this remote.1. Enter your vehicle and close all doors.

2. Fasten your seat belt ( fastening the seat belt will cancel any chiming that may confuse you during this programming procedure.)

3. Place key into the ignition.

4. Turn the ignition to the ON position ( DO NOT START THE ENGINE )

5. Press and hold the UNLOCK button on a working remote.

6. Continue to hold the UNLOCK button, wait at least 4 seconds, but no longer than 10 seconds, then press and hold PANIC button.7. When a single chime is heard, release both buttons. The chime indicates the system is in program mode.8. Press and release both the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons, simultaneoulsly on the remote to be programmed.9. A single chime will be heard. The chime indicates the the remote was recognized.

10. Within 4 seconds of hearing the chime, press and release any button on the remote being programmed.11. A single chime will be heard The chime indicates the remote has been programmed.12. Repeat steps 8 to 11 for a total of 4 remotes.13. Turn the ignition to the OFF position or wait 60 seconds to exit program mode.

I am driving a Mercedes E200Cgi. The dashboard gives me a red signal that says stop violent switch of engine
Thanks
Selloane

hi,i have no doubt for there diagnose because they read on star diagnose,hoping that they read the actual values,you mention the fault is coming when you turning,maybe the steering angle sensor, if not mistaking,they have a sti,stated poor contact in wiring connection on control module

A couple of different possibilities here but this is a typical problem when it comes to the MB cd changers. Before ruling the cd changer bad, check the spring settings on the sides of the changer. Make sure they are in the 'H' position since it sits in the glovebox. The Mercedes cd changers don't have a reset button. 95% of the time its the cd changer that is bad when this scenario happens. Its caused by a linkage that gets knocked out of place internally of the cd changer. Also try not to use burned or homemade cd's as they can also cause the cd changer not to read the discs anymore.If your cd changer is brand new or a factory rebuild then the dealer should change it out no problem since MB cd changers are known for this problem. Also the version coding needs to done to configure the D2B fiber optic ring properly.

hello,hoping they right,maybe your front sam is switching a electrical consumer,even your ignition key is out,resulting your battery drain,if possible ,request your dealer a print out regarding front sam actual values and specified values for your reference,ty

Go to Advance Auto or Auto Zone and ask them to read the error codes. Then lookup those codes on the Internet or post them on https://mbworld.org/

If it's an OEM radio Mercedes should have the code.. If it was replaced see if you can find the dealer that did the maintenance. It If you have the VIN# IT SHOULD LET THEM COME UP WITH THE SERIAL # AND HENCE THE CODE NUMBER.

Get this manual online at www.reliable-store.com and get complete guide on whether to repair or not, service it, and how to repair etc, along with wiring diagrams, electrical diagrams, torque specs, error codes, everything.

it could be a number of things. oil pressure switch, fuel pump relay or fuse. fuel pressure switch/regulator. something like this would help you find the fault https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-Benz-MB-OBD2-CAN-BUS-Fault-Code-Reader-Scanner-diagnostic-scan-tool-UK/221097686022 just to read the fault codes.

could be the boost sensor in intercooler system,,, or turbo actuator sticking

indications are that they are hard starting when cold indicates a problem ambient temp sensor or BARO sensor These sensors report to the ECM so that the correct air/fuel mixture is set for cold starting and running---sort of like the old fashioned choke pull have the fault codes read to determine where the faulty sensor is

indicates a fuel pump problem as that is the only thing in that area that is ignition controlled or possibly the EVAP system solenoid/ valve if it is in that area the frequency will be constant as the pump rpm is constant the noise could be a venting noise from the EVAP in in that area the distance of 15 km indicates that the problem is heat related as it take that long for something to over heat and cause the noise you may get an indicator by running the fault code

Follow normal troubleshooting procedures. Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair

Hi Tommy Parry, not totally sure on your problem but would suspect the heater core which is a radiator device inside the passenger compartment. The hot engine water is feed through the fire wall into the heater core when you select heat on the heater. either the heater core is leaking which is an expensive repair or the pipes maybe rubber pipes have a hole in them and checking them in the engine bay especially the hose clamps in the engine bay where the hoses are feed into the passenger compartment may be a starting point.