20 Most Recent 2000 Oldsmobile Alero Questions & Answers

Hi Anonymous What I believe you've said is that you turn the key to start, the engine turns over for a second, then you just hear the starter spinning but no engine turn over. Yes? Then you took it to Autozone and tested it and it stayed engaged during the test. The differences, possible or real here, are the load on the starter gear end, and the electricity driving it. There are a couple things happening in the start cycle. The motor starts spinning and the solenoid pushes the spinning gear forward to engage the toothed edge of the flywheel. If the solenoid doesn't push enough, the gear won't engage. So, one thought is that there's an issue with the solenoid - it may push the gear out just fine, but lack power to keep it pressed forward if there is back-force from the engine. If you have a poor connection to the battery, the solenoid may not draw the current to keep the gear engaged. Checking the hot (red) wire both at the battery and where it attaches to the starter is the primary diagnostic there. Even if the battery has a good charge, the current draw if starting is the heaviest load it encounters in a typical day of driving, so the ability of the battery to dump that charge quickly in a pulse of high current is also important, and non-corroded, tightly connected wires help. The starter gear also has a clutch in it - akin to the freewheel on the rear of a bike, or a ratchet. This lets the gear spin faster than the starter motor once the engine catches, so that the engine doesn't essentially grab the engaged starter motor and spin it waaay too fast. letting back on the key lets the fast spinning gear disengage without trouble. If there is an issue with that clutch/ratchet, that might also be allowing the gear to spin without it actually pushing - like the clicker in a ratchet sticking so that it'll spin either way. After that.... there is likely both a relay and a fuse for the starter. Not a bad idea to check that neither is blown, or, in the case of the relay, looking sort of browned and cooked. Hope this helps! D

NOPE YOU HAVE TO DROP THE GAS TANK TO REMOVE FUEL PUMP.

don't spend money guessing have the fault codes read first then fix what is indicated could be an EVAP problem not venting the tank could be a camshaft position sensor could e a failed cat converter locking the exhaust

Question edited for clarity, year make model in that order and first. Question moved to category. All in the link, videos and images. https://www.google.com/search?q=2000+oldsmobile+alero+temperature+sensor+location ...

busted vaccum diaferam or a loose vacuum line.

sounds like window is leaning. you might have to physically hold window in alignment then try putting it down. if not remove the other plastic piece and take window out, replace window mounts and put window back in.

Located on the very bottom of the radiator is a Large hose and the Drain Valve is there, open the valve, drain all the fluid, open the top of the radiator, hold a running water hose to fill the radiator, start the car find the balance of water flow, in the water hose and the drain. When the engine is warm about 3-5 minutes. It will then start cycling through the engine you may need to increase water hose flow now to keep the radiator full. Flush for 2-3 minutes or until crisp clear water is draining from the Drain valve. Turn off the car let all water drain completely. Then fill with Coolant. Water mix of 50%/50% coolants are suggested for summer time operation. GoodLuck!!!

You need a separate scan tool for that because they are on separate computers.

Consiatted... Omfg dude!! You nailed it!!! I've been having same issue in my Alero for 2 years and pushing down on it worked!! You are awesome!! Thanks! I have a subwoofer and great speakers in my car but prefer the stock deck.. less electrical issues... I was gonna put a new deck in this weekend but scratch that thanks to you :)

4 cyl? Look slightly below/beside the oil filter.

try jiggling the key. If that helps, replace the IGN switch. Very common failure

Which engine does it have ? 3.4 or 2.4 l

The fact the heater no longer produces hot air might be significant or coincidence. Sometimes a temperature gauge fault can produce the false belief an engine is overheating. If it overheated while the coolant was leaking it is possible it loosened enough sludge to block the radiator and/or heater matrix. It could also have caused a 17 years old head gasket to begin failing. Below are some notes I prepared for my customers... Cylinder Head Gaskets A few explanatory notes... The cylinder head gasket is a complex seal within the engine intended to keep cooling water, engine oil and the combustion process separate. The life of a cylinder head gasket is very stressful and deterioration begins the moment a new engine is started for the first time and continues at a rate depending on the usage and the design of the engine. It is almost inevitable that the cylinder head gasket will fail at sometime in the life of the engine and replacement will be needed. Occasionally a complete head gasket failure is sudden (and disastrous for the engine as serious overheating can take place) but mostly symptoms or clues indicating the continuing deterioration of the gasket is resulting in it failing to do its job properly are present for a long time before complete failure occurs... When two, or more, of the following symptoms are present most or all of the time it is time to seek help and advice: -

1. Residual pressure in a cold cooling system.
2. Pressure in cooling system immediately or very soon after start-up (while still cold).
3. Abnormal amount of bubbles seen rising through coolant expansion bottle (if it is clear plastic) while the engine is running.
4. Misfire occurring regularly on start-up that clears rapidly (cold or just-warm engine).
5. Steady coolant loss but no external leaks.
6. Abnormally large amounts of vapour from the tailpipe continuing longer than normal and might be accompanied by a spray of water. Some vapour and some droplets of water are normal, especially in cooler weather.
7. Unusual or erratic heater operation (warm/cold not electric fan) often accompanied by unusual temperature gauge indications.
8. Engine oil level does not fall in spite of usage or even seems to be getting higher: oil might also have a lighter coloured or creamy appearance than is usual.
9. Oily residue floating on top of coolant.
10. Emulsion present under oil filler cap and/or dipstick. Some emulsion (or mayonnaise) is usual for many engines under some circumstances.

Head gasket replacement is not a routine operation and it usually is not possible to predict the amount of work required before dismantling has taken place. For reasons of long term economy and reliability it might also be advisable to have other work carried out at the same time, such as timing belt replacement, valve stem oil seal replacement, etc.

check the idle controller and your timing belt

The instrument cluster is the problem , buy a used one from a auto salvage yard for $20 buck's an see if it work's then . Then send your's to a Automotive electronics remanufacturing company . Reman Auto Electronics Auto ECM Electronics