I've seen the AF code twice now on my Whirlpool Cabriolet Dryer (wed6400sw1). The first time, we thought it stood for "Auto Fluff", a cycle to keep the clothes wrinkle free...We soon realized the dryer was getting a lot hotter than it ever did before and until I checked the vent stack from the roof, I had no idea that the pipe was blocked with a build-up of lint. I cleaned the pipe from top to bottom by taking it apart wherever I could using a vacuum and every hose extension I could get my hands on. I duct taped these together so I didn't drop it somewhere that I couldn't reach!The second time we saw the AF code was this weekend. First, I verified the vent pipe was not clogged again. (a good quick test for this is to disconnect it from the back of the dryer and run it unconnected to see if the AF code fires) After some online research, I started taking it apart the back to maybe replace the thermistor or the thermal fuse shown above. I noticed an odd little piece of ceramic tubing had fallen down to the base of the dryer pan. So I decided to take the heater core apart to have a look. Sure enough, I found my problem. My dryer has two separate groups of springy looking heater wire. You can see that part here as well as the little tube I found. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/whirlpool-element-item-number-ap3953732.aspx It turns out that ceramic tube is an insulator allowing for the two heating elements to exist without touching since they are both powered from the same starting wire point.Well, my AF code (which is really just telling you the dryer is getting too hot) was being created due to a broken wire which caused the two units to fuse together. It must have been getting really hot. It also had welded itself to the metal backing structure.I carefully removed the broken wires from the heater element and reassembled to test. Sure enough, it works good again and no AF code, but I bet it doesn't heat as much since I removed one half of the element. I'm going to pick up a replacement heater element tomorrow from the local parts store to restore it like new.Hope this helps someone!
Tough repair but easy fix. get all the water out you can then lay the washer over and remove the pump motor from down under there. get the sock or whatever is in there out like in my home movie: If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
The threads are backwards. The pulley end of the motor has a flat spot on it where 7/16 wrench fits. I use a wrench to hold that part down and then I basically shove a flat piece of iron actually ot it a tub nut remover tool into the bales at the 3 o'clock position and slam down the a 12 pound hammer. Sometimes the pulley on these breaks. Most times though if you get mean with it you can get it off there in one piece. The cabinet might be fancy but it has the same setup and any roper/kenmore.whirlpool dryer motor with filter in the top. My crappy home movie of how it all goes down If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
AF= Air Flow: there is a restriction; check to make sure that the lint screen is clean,and that the door seal is in place and the vent isn't obstructed, just disconnect the vent and run the dryer, if it clears its the vent tube if not feel the back of the dryer with it running should feel hot/warm air continuous, if not feeling a lot of air, the you will need to take the dryer apart and clean all the lint off. if all checks out good then the control board. Hope this helps Tim
