20 Most Recent Whirlpool Cabrio 7.0 Cu. Ft. Super Capacity Plus Gas Dryer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

FIRST YOU CHECK THE ELEMENT FOR RESISTANCE THE CHECK THERMAL CUT OFF TO MAKE SURE IT IS NOT OPEN IF YOU DO NOT KNOW HOW DO DO THE CHECK CALL A LOCAL REPAIR SRVICE

google Manual for whirlpool Cabrio Dryer WED6600VW0 for manuals

google whirlpool heat pump dryer error codes for more answers it is easy

Always first unplug the dryer from the wall outlet and then ohm test the thermal fuse, then disconnect the flame sensor and ohm test that, its located on the side of the burner tube. Remember no continuity going through it means it bad. Also, clean all the lent out of the dryer this should be done on a regular basis. I attached a website that has videos that will help you find the parts. I Hope this helps Tim https://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/whirlpool-dryer-ggw9250pw3-repair/ggw9250pw3-no-heat-or-not-enough-heat.html

You can't work on gas appliances yourself. You need a Whirlpool gas certified technician. Fan working okay? May be a sensor thermostat?

E1=Thermistor open

post your email and i will send you the steps to fix and check it too much to type here

F04 indicates a fault in the heating circuit. It can be a main board, wiring, thermostat or heater fault. You would need to check the heater and thermostats with a multimeter to ensure they are not open circuit. . However, the first thing to try is a reset of the control board. . Turn the dial to off. Turn the dial clockwise to the 6 o'clock position. Press the start button 3 times Turn the dial 1 position clockwise. Press the start button 3 times. . This should erase the code. Try the machine again. If the code comes back, you need to check out the heating circuit. If you change or repair any part, reset the board, then try again.

You need a new run capacitor on the motor, or maybe a new motor itself. Due the cost, get a technician in.

If you disassemble the dryer, you probably will find the exhaust blower is clogged with lint (especially if you use softener). Also, the heating element(s) may have failed partially or a temperature sensor isn't working.

The recommended power cord is a 30 amp 3- or 4- wire cable. A 50 A cord could cause a problem by allowing a surge to the dryer motor and damage the dryer or start a fire. There are 30A to 50A adapters (see RV and boat supply vendors). The installation instructions for the LER5636EQ3 are available here: https://www.whirlpool.com/digitalassets/MLPDF/Installation%20Instructions%20-%203397618.pdf . See page 5 of the PDF. Note: the 50A outlet has a 50A circuit breaker protecting it. If you swap the outlet to a 30A outlet, you will also need to replace the breaker with a 30A one. I hope this helps. Cindy Wells

I'm wondering if the motor may have a problem & getting too hot it most likely has a breaker built into the motor that shuts it off if it gets too hot . If that's the case it should reset after a while when it cools . You might try running it then when it stops let it sit for a while & see if it will start again . If it starts let it run when it stops again feel the motor & see if it is real hot . Just something you could check . Hope this helps

Air flow is a big issue, check the fan and the vent for obstruction.

The way I did mine was to run a 3 wire cable from the breaker box the middle wire to neutral the other 2 to 2 separate 30 amp breakers used #10 wire . The other end of the cable to a 220 3 prong outlet .Then get a 3 prong dryer power cord connected the middle wire the the middle dryer neutral the other 2 to the other 2 wire connectors those 2 wires can go either way . I'm not saying this is the best way but it worked for me & still using it. you can hook it up with a 4th wire for ground instead of using the neutral for ground be sure you have it grounded right .It might be best to type (How to wire a dryer ) in search on the internet it will show a vidio of how the wire a 3 or 4 wire power cord. Hope this will help If you use the 4 wire you may have to use a 4wire cable going to the box . I have no problem with the 3 wire they have used it for years.

I don't know your model # but I have a diagram showing the connections for the orange wire I think they are all the same . It shows one end connects to the timer The other end of the orange connects to the heating element the same place as the high limit thermostat most likely has 2 lugs one for high limit & one for the orange for the orange Hope this helps I'm not to good at explaining things The high limit is the thermostat that connects directly to the heat element. .

Check that the belt is good & didn't slip off where it connects on the motor shaft if that's all good remove the belt from the motor & see if the motor is running ok . Don't run the motor very long or everything will get too hot, check all drum rollers they should turn freely , check Idler pully should turn freely check Bearing ring for front support (279441) $45.44 Hope this helps belt # 341241

Sounds like it had a short in the panel by the light flashing in the control boards some of the voltages are low & maybe wouldn't kick the breaker .If that's the case it may have damaged a part that wont let it start. Just guessing those boards are expensive that's why I don't like them .

The wire most likely goes to the door switch if not hooked up would not start. There should be a diagram in the dryer unless someone took it out which happens.

The diagram for the Whirlpool should be somewhere in the dryer if no one took it out don't know about the other one .

should be in the dryer somewhere unless someone took it out which happens .

Check the heat sensor in the auto setting it is usely on the drum that's what turns the dryer off when it is dry . The wet clothes get against it when they are dry it shuts off. Hope this helps