20 Most Recent Goldstar Over-the-Range Microwave Questions & Answers

it has a fuse under the outside case but to just stop heating while still having a display indicates a bigger problem Take it to an appliance repair shop for a quote to repair as most times the cost to repair is almost the price of a replacement unit

That model number doesn't look quite right. You may be able to find the service manual here. Normally you have to separate the door panels (as shown in the attached photo) and then you'll see the screws you need to remove. Or you can watch a YouTube video (not a video I made) here that demonstrates how it's done.

see this cuases and fix it. God bless youMicrowave Runs, but no Heat OK, get ready, this micrwave oven repair can take some time. This is where you must be able to read a wiring diagram and do some "live" checks on parts. First easy check is to make sure power is coming off your control board at the MW relay. Make sure of the wires and test here, if you have 120 volts at this point, you have ruled out a lot of parts that could be the problem. You have now ruled out any switch problems, control board problems, or a thermostat or 2.If you do not have power from that MW relay on the control board, you must trace the wiring back to see if the proper voltage is going through your switches, any thermostats, and arriving at your control board. Your wiring diagram on your sheet will show you where and what to test. Below is a general switch test troubleshooting guide. If the proper voltage is coming into your control board and you are not getting voltage at the MW relay, then you need to replace the control board. If voltage is interupted by a thermostat or switch from your testing to the control board, then replace that part.Now, testing from the MW relay on to your transformer, high voltage capacitor, magnetron, and diode. Do not do any voltage reading from the secondary side of the transformer on, this can be a deadly microwave oven repair if you do not follow directions. This can result in electrocution and the "blowing-up" of your voltmeter, only do OHM testing with the power off and the capacitor discharged. Someplace in this circuit, usually before the transformer, you will have another thermostat to test. It is usually mounted on the magnetron. Do a quick OHM test to see if it is open or closed.Now to test either the transformer, high voltage capicitor, magnetron, and diode, you must test each part separately. A good rule of thumb, if your capacitor is bad, change the diode also. Another note, if you are working on an OTR model and you have determined to be one of these "heating" circuit parts, you can not test these parts until you take the unit down. If you don't have the parts with you and you have to order them, order the magnetron, capacitor and diode and you will have a 90% chance of solving the problem. If it is an older microwave, order the thermostat also, most times you can return un-used, un-opened parts. Check with your parts supplier. This way you only have to take the unit down once.To test these parts, scroll down this page and you will see a chart with component tests. Follow the instructions to find which part(s) are defective in your microwave oven repair.

more than likely a defective magnetron; less likely loose h.v. connections.

A serial/model number would help... MV1526W? MV1604SBQ? I apologize for needing to ask, but am not that familiar with them. I would unplug the entire unit and let it rest for at least 30 seconds, and even try to push buttons while unplugged to dispel latent static electricity within the system. Then plug it in and see if you still have the problem.

I have found a website that may help, depending if they have uploaded your particular model.

http://www.hammerwall.com/Manuals/Goldstar/Description/MV1604SBQ/GoldStar%20Microwave%20Oven/L0521424/

Sounds like the transformer or magnetron might be bad. I have a tip at http://www.fixya.com/support/r4223574-microwave_oven_will_not_heat which explains the problem and the solution. It is geared more to a unit which will run but not heat but your problem also falls into that category. It should be easy to find your problem. It will be the shorted component. Let me know if you need more help.

hardrocko

Thanks for using FixYa and the generous rating.

Many brands have a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, & testing.



At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Some questions to help you or someone you know troubleshoot it:

When you hit "Start" to microwave, do the inside light, cooling fan, and turntable all come on?

If not, then you probably have a bad door switch or door switch mount and should see these files:

http://www.microwavedisplay.com/safety.txt
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/disassembly.txt
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt

If the inside light, cooling fan, and turntable are all coming on, then the problem is in the high voltage section, and then the next questions arise:

Any unusual noises? Is it louder or quieter than usual?

We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are operating here.

A loud buzz, hum, or groan is usually a shorted high voltage rectifier diode, but a sound like gurgling into an empty coffee mug is one symptom of a failed magnetron, and yet the mag can be bad without that sound.

If there's no unusual noise, it may just be a bad connection at the magnetron.

Here are some links you or someone you know can use (in order given) for high voltage section test help, but read the safety warnings first:

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html
(if it is NOT shorted or burned looking, it's probably fine)

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html
(continuity can be good even though mag is bad!)

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer.html

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I'd recommend that your bookmark this link to your favorites.


Accessing some parts may require you to pull the oven from the wall and remove the cover.

If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.

You can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions here.


You can download owner's manuals and installation instructions for several brands (including Amana, Jenn-Air, Kitchenaid, Litton, Maytag, Roper, Tappan, Thermador and Whirlpool) here.


You can download owner's manuals and installation instructions for Electrolux and Frigidaire here.


We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

This problem is almost always due to a defective or loose magnetron causing electrical interference and disruption in the control circuit board.

The shielding may keep the interference out of the controls, but it's still being emitted, and the magnetron will eventually go bad.

Details covering some previous models are in GE's bulletin here. Even if your model is not on the list, the same problem can occur.

If your magnetron was recently replaced, it may have loose mounting nuts or bolts or maybe the wire mesh RF gasket was not installed or got pinched.

NOISY MAGNETRON TEST (c) 2009 William E. Miller [email protected]

One way to test it is to do the following:

1. Unplug the microwave or turn off its breaker.
2. Open the door, then detach the control panel as shown in the video at http://www.microwavedisplay.com and swing it down, but without disconnecting the wires. )If you have any trouble getting the grille off once the screws are removed, slide the hood vent grille to the left about 1/4", then then pull it forward. On some models there are L-shaped clips that fit into a slot to hold bottom of the vent.)
3. Plug the microwave back in.
4. Make sure neither you nor anyone else reaches in behind the control panel. There will exposed high-voltage connections.
5. Put a few cups worth of water in a microwave-safe container and place it inside the microwave.
6. Shut the door.
7. Run the microwave for about 1 minute or so on full power. (Time Cook > 1 > 0 > 0 > Start, e.g.)
8. If it does not fail, try it several more times.
9. When the water boils, change the water and try again.

NOTE: If your model does not have a door handle, you will need to unplug the oven and reattach the control panel to be able to open the door.

If it still does not fail, I would recommend that you put it all back together and keep using it until it fails more consistently, then repeat this test.

While a microwave should never be left running unattended under any circumstances (as your owner's manual will tell you) it's even more important when one is exhibiting a failure or any odd behavior. So play it safe and stay with it while it's running!

If you or someone you know want to replace the magnetron yourself, you will need to remove the oven from the wall.

If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.

You can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions here.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.



At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

If it's within the magnetron portion of the warranty (usually 5-9 years) but out of the original full warranty (usually 1 year), then your manufacturer will cover the part cost, but not the cost to visit you or the labor charge to do the work.

If it's under magnetron warranty, GE will send you the magnetron to do it yourself. Call them at 888-239-6832.

Be persistent. You may have to speak with a supervisor.

If it is not within the magnetron warranty, you can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

If you prefer to arrange service by an authorized service center, GE Customer Service is here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

The turntable system consists of the motor, the coupler, the turntable support with rollers, and the tray.

You can see and hear a video of how a turntable motor should sound when you rotate it by hand.

If yours is not set to be off via the control panel, and it won't rotate or it sounds like it's grinding, etc., you may have a bad motor or plastic coupler.

To replace either, you need to unplug power, then remove the bottom cover of the oven.

You can also do that to attach AC voltmeter leads to the leads of the motor. Then run the microwave to see if it has voltage present.

If so, you have a bad motor.

To order Goldstar / L.G. parts, visit Vance Baldwin Electronics.
You'll probably have to call them to find parts for your model.

(If yours is not an LG/Goldstar, please reply back with your brand and model number so we can help you)

If you don;t see the voltage, then you most likely have a problem with the control panel.

We regularly repair such control units for customers nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week with a one-year guarantee.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com