20 Most Recent Frigidaire Affinity 5.8 Cu. Ft. Electric Dryer - Page 5 Questions & Answers

If this is as you say, please contact your appliance dealer as soon as you can. You are right, don't use it. You dont' want to be seriously injured nor injury someone else and as for your place catching fire, not a remote possibility.

That means the motor is not starting. This symptom is usually the 'thermal fuse' that is blown. It is quite easy to replace by taking of the back of the dryer. It is located on the air duct in the back. The photo shows what it looks like:


If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

It sounds like your drive motor is bad. Hope this helps.

Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

If it is like any other frigidaire dryer it is mounted on the upper right hand corner of the rear bulkhead. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2006/04/13/unlocking-the-control-lock-on-certain-electrolux-washers-and-dryers/

Hi,


A Nice article by an expert ;-


This advice is for all ELECTRIC Dryers that have a "No Heat" problem.

Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.



Note :- One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.

Hope i helped.

DO RATE THE SOLUTION.

Thanks for using 'Fixya'.

Hi,

There are couple of troubleshooting steps that you need to do:

Disconnect the dryer from the main power source before beginning any work. Disconnect the dryer from the wall outlet, or in the fuse box, or by flipping the circuit breaker.

Step 2 Take off the top of the dryer. Use a putty knife to get the top of the dryer up by pushing in on the clips on each side of the dryer. Once the clips are loosened, lift the top of the dryer up.

Step 3 Take off the front of the dryer. Remove the screws at the top, using a screwdriver. Put the screws in a safe place so you can easily get to them when you are ready to reassemble the dryer. Once the screws are removed, pull forward on the front of the dryer and lift the complete front off the two clips on the bottom of the dryer. Set the dryer door aside.

Step 4 Remove the two screws at the left rear side of the dryer that is holding the inspection plate on. Remove the plate. Be sure to notice how the belt is threaded around the motor pulley and idler pulley so that you can put it back on after you have replaced the heating element.

Step 5 Remove the belt. Hold the belt in one hand and the front of the drum in the other while you lift up on the drum and pull forward. At this point, you will be where you are able to get to the heating element.

Step 6 Switch out the heating elements. Remove each of the screws that is holding the heating element. Remove the damaged heating element and discard it. Replace with the new heating element and reattach screws.

Step 7 Reassemble the dryer. You will need to rethread the belt, then screw the back and front back into place.

Step 8 Reconnect the power source either to the wall outlet or circuit breaker. Now, check out your dryer to see if it is ready to start work again.

Thanks for contacting Fixya.

The heating element by far is the most common part to cause this, the motor is very unlikely based on my experience of 30 years

Hi there,

Sounds like your motor has gone bad, would probably need to replace it, it is overheating and kicking out on its overload then running again when it cools down.

Good Luck!!
Thanks

I will require more information to remotely troubleshoot your problem.
Please use the "Continue With This Expert" option and reply with answers to the following....

1. Any Error Message on the display? Lights flashing, codes etc.
2. Exact model # of the Dryer
3. Approximate age of the unit.

Thanks!!

The door lock has failed. Have it replaced and it should start working again.

Always list your machine model, mfg, type, voltatge, etc. The more info we have the more we can help you. If you just got the machine, check your warranty. Blinking lights probably mean an electronic control problem, you're going to need a qualified tech to fix that.

I would contact customer support for Frigidaire. They will porbably be able to give you an idea. I would bet it is the dryer cord that could be bad.

If the terminal is 5/16 it needs to be 5/16. The reason is that it passes the correct resistance. The smaller the contact, the more resistance and heat. You may be okay with a 5/16 connector in 250'F and that is probably the best option. However, I would image that any local wholesale electrical wholesaler would carry them. https://www.google.com/search?q=5%2F16+high+temperature+spade+terminal Nedco and CES are my go-to wholesalers https://www.google.com/search?q=electrical+wholesaler+near+me ..