The pilot lay may not be igniting. Inside the pilot step is a little probe. This probe stays heated to ignite the pilot at the correct time. If the probe is sooted or dirty, it will not let the pilot and ignitor burn properly. I would use oven cleaner and a wire brush and clean the pilot and the internal ignitor stem.
Typically the issue here is a weak glow bar (hot surface ignitor). When they weaken they open the gas valve slowly and it takes a bit for the ignitor to light up the oven burner.
If on LP, you may need to change the jets on the burners on top. Most times, when oven and broiler work and top doesn't, and you have spark, your jets are wrong size. Look on back of unit for a cardboard attached to unit, should have jets stuck to cardboard, if notgo to store where you bought unit and buy jets.
As copied from the manual.
Setting a silent control panel
When choosing a function, a beep will be heard each time a pad is pressed. If desired, the control can be programmed for silent operation. Press and hold (start/time) . After 7 seconds, the control will beep once. This will block the controls from sounding when a pad is pressed. To return the sound, press and hold (start/time) again for 7 seconds until the control beeps once
NOTE!
The OVEN indicator light on the electronic display will turn ON and OFF when using the Bake feature and during preheat. This is normal and indicates that the oven is cycling to maintain the selected baking temperature. When the preheat indicator light turns OFF, your oven is ready.
Hi im an appliance tech and i had the same problem its not the EOC other words control board its actually the speed bake swith its stuck in the on position that why you get a stock keypad error code either f1 or f11 replace that switch or disconnect it and im positive that this will solve it .
Send it back and get the correct one. It can't be the same part number if the connections are different. Your old one may have features that his new one doesn't. The one less wire may just be a shared return, but the stove might be needing individual returns. If it is an updated replacement (the listing sometimes says 'compatible with' or 'replaced by', or 'alternative part'), it should come with a wiring schematic.
Please always include full 'make MODEL (what it is)'.
Fixya Expert 'Jorgie the Appliance Guy' will have the answer if it is a shared return but he will need the model number. Edit your post and add it.
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No orifice for the oven jet? All work on gas appliances needs to be done by a certified gas technician. Somewhere, normally just behind the knob, there is an adjusting screw (certainly for hobs). The flame must be high enough that it can't blow out. The standard test is the slam the oven door, with your kitchen windows closed and then again with them open. Help in the link, but also the pressure from the tank _at_ the range should be checked.
https://www.google.com/search?q=oven+flame+adjustment
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This is so confusing
You say
"The oven and broiler elements are not working"
Then you say
"Everything works except the burners'.
so nothing works? No oven/broiler elements and no burners? It make me wonder what the 'everything' is that works? The clock? The oven light?
Sounds like the main house breaker has flipped. On my older GE stove from the 1980s there are glass screw in fuses hidden below the controls and above the hobs. You undo the switch bezel for the oven light and the switch bezel for the rotisserie and pull the panel forward exposing 8 fuses. If all yours blew, it would be very strange!
Click comment under my answer and also under Vince's and we will get you Fix-Ya.
