20 Most Recent Frigidaire FGR341AC Electric Dryer Questions & Answers

Jan, It sounds like you have a few separate issues going on. I would call a qualified repairman.

I could not find the model number you listed. I also would be very concerned about over heating until we can find and locate the problem. Look inside the door and compare number with the on listed here at Fixya. Thanks, Sea Breeze

Your dryer has some internal ductwork. If it gets clogged, your dryer can't dry properly. In most dryers, to get to the internal ductwork to clear the clog, you have to substantially disassemble the dryer. A quick way to check for internal clogs is to remove the lint filter and use a flashlight to inspect the inside of the duct. If it looks clogged and you can't clear it using your vacuum.

Many front load dryers have teflon pads that the drum rides on, they can wear out and the drum could be riding on metal. I assume your dryer is a 220v. There are several things that could happen. The heating element could have a break in it due to age if it's and old dryer. Another thing could be the breaker. One leg of the breaker could have failed. If you have a voltmeter you can check the both legs of the breaker. You can check the heating element with the ohm setting on the voltmeter if the heating is intact it will it will read a certain amount of ohms. If the element is bad it will read "0".

Hi, If you have a gas dryer.
The most common problem with a gas and no heat is the ignitor going bad...

Here is a tip that I wrote about that problem...

Gas Dryer not Working Gas Dryer Not Heating
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4398592-gas_dryer_not_working_gas_dryer_not

If your dryer is electric..
There could be a number of different problems...
Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...

Dryer Troubleshooting Electric Dryer won t Heat
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866345-dryer_troubleshooting_electric_dryer_won

heatman101

IF ITS A SQEAK ITS POSSABLE IT IS THE REAR BEARING A VIBRATION IT MAY BE SOMETHING IN THE BLOWER WHEEL If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dude_653d05454b389bba

rear of the drum behind heating element

there may be a problem with the heating element or one of the thermal fuses check those out

whats the model number? better yet go to this website www.partselect.com enter your model number and it should pull up diagrams of your dryer. Very useful site when trying to find parts and stuff. Hopefully this helps.....

The fuse is located on the rear wall upper right hand corner. To get to it you must bust dat dryer down. HERES HOW If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

front drum seal needs replacing pop clips at front of dryer top ..lift top remove 1 secrew each side of front from the inside..remove wires lift panel off clips ckd front panel around door area for felt seal may also have embedded plastic drum glides a felt seal also goes around bottom half

You have to remove the top lid. Then remove the front panel. Then remove the belt and drum.
Your problem is a bad rear drum support assembly.
Remember to unplug the dryer.

i would say the heat senser is not oicking up the right temp. you should have a tec. check it out and not run it until they look at it a dryer can catch fire quickly. please be safe.........

HI. THANKS FOR THE QUESTION . I WOULD REPLACE THE BELT .ITS STRETCHED A BIT. AND CLEAN THE DIRT OUT. AND THE VENTING THANKS THE APPLIANCE DOC.

Frigidaire dryers use a post and bearing support system. The noise you hear is the post grinding away on the support. This is the kit to fix that dryer and a link to the kit
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=1851&PPStack=1

It cost 24 bucks and ships overnight.

Now to fix it requires a phillip screw driver to undo all those screws, I would start with unplugging the unit, removing the two screws in back for the top panel, two screws for the bottom kick panel, located all the way down, hard to see so tilt unit back to access. Next is four screws at the front corners above the user panel and two inside at front left and right sides about nine inches down, now there are two more at the bottom of this door panel where you pulled the kick panel off. After this there is two wire harness clips, squeeze and pull they come off and gently pull at the top sides as there is retainer clips which secure the panel. Ok? Alright now you see the drum with belt attached, get a flashlight at memorize how the belt loops on the tensioner to the motor pulley and take a photo if needed:) Remove the belt and one more screw top middle in front holding a yellow bumper for the drum. The drum while come off by lifting the back of the drum firmly as it clips in place on the bearing support. Now pull the drum out and if I didnt warn you watch out for sharp edges. You will see the flange with shaft on the drum to replace and the bearing support on the back. The back portion screws together with two screws through a retainer to hold a small ball bearing in, I suggest getting a buddy to hold the back clip when replacing as it is a stretch. In the photo above you will see all the pieces on right go in this order metal clip, plastic cup, ball bearing onto panel and hold clip on back and insert two screws, with a buddy and some grease to hold the ball bearing this is the easy part. The flange has three screws and you must thread them with out stripping the heads off. A buddy again to share the moment is best to hold the drum while you insert the screws. The last part is putting a 1/2 tsp of grease in the plastic cup and following the instructions in reverse. Dont forget the wire harness as you reassemble or the belt looping on the tensioner.

Searstechtoo

The control thermostat has failed. It's mounted to the plastic air duct that your lint trap slides into. You'll have to unplug the unit and remove the front panel to get to it. The part number is #131298400 and is available at a local appliance parts retailer. Cost is about $32.00.

Longer dry times and improper heating can be attributed to poor dryer vent ducting. The first thing you need to check is the ventilation ducting to ensure that it is not kinked or clogged. Poor air flow is the number one cause of dryer failures. Not to mention it can cause fires due to lint backing up inside the dryer. This can cause an "electrical" smell a lot of people complain about. If lint accumulates on the heating element it will smolder and burn. It is often reported that you should clean your ducting twice per year. I recommend the ducting be checked (this means inspected to see if it needs cleaning) thoroughly about once per season. That's 4 times per year. If you've never cleaned the ducting, or your dryer is pushed all the way up against the wall causing the ducting to become kinked, you will have air flow problems. One way in determining air flow is to remove the vent hose from the back of the dryer and start the dryer with a load to see if it heats better. The air flow coming out of the back of the dryer should be forceful and gradually warm up to about 140 degrees. If the air flow is weak, you may have a clog inside the air baffle of the dryer (this is where the lint screen slides into). If the air flow is good, reattach the dryer hose and check at the output of the dryer vent as it exits your home. If the air flow is weak or non-existent then you know you have a clog in the vent line somewhere. Periodic cleaning will go a long way towards preventing future clogs. Dryer vent rule of thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent line, the BETTER. Everywhere you have a bend or kink is an area where you will create potential collection points for lint. Poor dryer maintenance is also one of the frequent causes of house fires. In addition, if the dryer vent runs into an attic, or under a crawl space, this can cause heating problems due to frequent clogs (remember the shorter and straighter rule). I would recommend a little routine inspection and maintenance before assuming you have a part failing. Leaving a dryer in a poorly ventilated condition will eventually lead to failure of the heating circuits. If you have checked the dyrer thoroughly and have no ventilation problems, we can take it from there to see if you have a component starting to fail on you. Please post back and let me know. I hope this is helpful to you.

If the terminal is 5/16 it needs to be 5/16. The reason is that it passes the correct resistance. The smaller the contact, the more resistance and heat. You may be okay with a 5/16 connector in 250'F and that is probably the best option. However, I would image that any local wholesale electrical wholesaler would carry them. https://www.google.com/search?q=5%2F16+high+temperature+spade+terminal Nedco and CES are my go-to wholesalers https://www.google.com/search?q=electrical+wholesaler+near+me ..