20 Most Recent MTX Dodge Ram Quad Cab 2002-2003 Thunderform, Loaded with Dual 10 Inch Subs and Amplified, Charcoal Car Speaker - Page 2 Questions & Answers

on the miss fire have you checked your spark plug to see what kind of shape its in? on the rpms. can be a couple of things most commun is the tps which can cause eratic idles over drive kicking in and out transmission shifting to soon etc. on the brakes. while you had it jacked up did you try to move the tires to see if there is any free play? and check behind the dust shelds. the brakes now days are made of cheap materials and since they stoped using asbestos they use alot of metal shavings etc for fillers which cause brakes to squeak and squeal when stopping. you can try changing them out for a medium grade wagner or buy some brake quiet hope this helps.

ANYTIME YOU HAVE A MISFIRE THAT ILLUMINATES THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT THE CODE HAS TO BE CLEARED. YOU CAN DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE FOR 10 MINUTES TO CLEAR THIS LIGHT. IF LIGHT COMES BACK ON YOU STILL HAVE A PROBLEM

i have a '95 and it does the same thing when it is cold. starts and runs good when temp is warm.

Basically that means that there is an interal fault in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). There have been many reported PCM failures on Chrysler/Dodge products although it is possible for this to happen on any vehicle. In Dodge/Chrysler products, a P0601 trouble code means that a serial communication failed inside the computer at least 6 times.

the end of th eupper radiator hose. follow it

get under your truck then feel on the side of your gear box and there is ia lever about 3 inches long this is your selector it should be attached to your shifter if it IS still attached then your gearbox is fooked

it could be the oil pump getting weak. if the oil pressure is under 20 psi on the dash then it could be and be causing damage to internal parts. but if it goes away when it warms up then you may have a sticky lifter.

Hello wgillingham,

Gates Rubber has diagrams for most vehicles. Put your vehicle information into the drop down boxes and click of the little "camera" icon.

Hope this helps.

it sounds like the wires going to the lock assembly have a break in them or the lock actuater has failed, easiest way is to run test leads from a 12 VDC source to the actuater ans see if it works if not most likely a wire has failed or if it does not work the actuater is bad and needs replaced. Thanks Don

Did you check all the fuses and relays as it sounds like a blown fuse or a relay that is not working, you don't say how old the car is or what make but if it is a fairly new model all these funktions are controlled thru the computer so it is most likely something chewed an input wire or 2 or a input relay chose this time to fail. Best bet is to get a manual that shows all fuses and relays, their pysicle position and what their function is to see if all these fuctions are controlled thru one relay or fuse or multiple. Thanks Don

You don't say if you live in a colder climate and if this happens more in colder weather, but what it sounds like is the oil pressure switch is either partially plugged with oil gunk or thick oil when you first start your engine the oil pressure does not read as its partially plugged but as soon as you shut it off the oil redistributes itself in the pressure tube and reads the pressure. The easiest fix is to replace the old pressure switch with a new one but before you install it remove the old one and cover the threads where it goes with a rag and have a freind crank the motor over until oil comes out the threads and then install the new switch. Thanks Don

When you take apart the column you wille see a torx screw on the bottom of the ignition switch you must remove it then put the key in and turn it forward to release the ignition cylinder.

Hope this gets you started!

check your vacuum lines for transmission and do you flush and maintain your transmission?

Make sure the gas cap is tight.

That's your brake vacuum, take it to a mechanic to have it taken care of, if your vacuum leaks too bad you won't have brakes...

If there is a misfire you do not need the firing order to figure out the fault. Just replace the plugs and go from there. Really no need to sacrifice your time chasing an ignition problem when all you need is a simple tune up , or coil . Rec. Changing all plugs and #4 coil , and have a fuel induction service performed by your local garage or dealer.

you will prob need to buy a starter

Try the idle setting yet. if it is too low (drops below 800) that could cause the engine to die

I assume you've checked the most often overlooked yet obvious dash switch/knob. Could be a defective door switch or wire shorted to ground (usually at a sharp metallic edge or a sharp screw penetrating the insulation); you may be able to find which one using an ohmmeter on lowest scale: disconnect negative terminal on car battery first, then remove all the bulbs affected, next hook the ohmmeter between ground and the one of the two wires going to one of the lights. The meter will read almost 0.00 ohms but not quite. (If it doesn't, try the other wire.) Now open each door, one by one. If you see any change that is repeatable, that door switch is working. If you come to a door that is not working, there will be no change and that is the one to replace and/or check the wiring to. Let me know if you need help at that point. BTW, ohmmeter is part of DMM digital multimeter selling for $6-20.

check your spark plug's, they probably have to be replaced. if not then it could be your air filter or injectors. just clean all 3 and see what happens