20 Most Recent Janome 6019QC Mechanical Sewing Machine - Page 4 Questions & Answers

If you lift up the thread holder, the bobbin holder is inside. Loosen the hand guide to stop the needle from going up and down. Pull the thread around the top thread guide and back into the bobbin holder. Thread the bobbin and move the bobbin over so the guage is "inside" the bobbin. As for the manual, the Singer Merritt 2404 is applicable to the 2430 if that helps.

Call your local Janome dealer and let him order one for you. It should cost about $15.
sewman7

Unusual for this machine. Check to be sure the needle is inserted with the flat side to the back of the machine. If it is, remove the needle plate, bobbin and bobbin case. Turn the hand wheel slowly toward you and see if the point of the hook is above or below the eye of the needle when the hook point is aligned behind the needle. If the eye is above the point of the hook the machine is out of time and best taken to qualified technician.

Cannot just scan into machine. Need to digitize any image before you can sew it. Need digitizer, customizer or pay someone to digitize it and then put on card.

www.mouthshut.com/.../Sewing_Machines_reviews-925345.html

have you checked that the feed dogs are raised? mine has a switch at the back -

Hi,
Make sure you have threaded the bobbin thread correctly. Also your top thread must be correctly threaded in order to pick up the bobbin thread.
Please let me know if I can help any further.

Best wishes,
Graemevm

Right, now I've figured this out :)

Put your button in the holder on the foot - fiddle about with it enough and I'm sure you'll work out how, one bit slides open and then you can close it again to hold the button.

Then fit the foot to the machine - the piece with the button in goes at the back.

Select 2 on the stitch selector, 4.5 on the stitch width and buttonhole on the stitch length.

Using scraps make up a piece of fabric with the same number and construction of layers as your finished garment and do a practice run or three.

You can set the actual feed length using the -.+ control (beside the feed release switch at the front, below the sewing table).

Between button holes you need to reset by turning the stitch selector wheel slightly until you hear a click.

Once you're happy with the method, think you have the settings as you want them and feel you have done enough practice try it for real on the garment.

Note: the button holes come out a bit long - just don't cut down the whole length or you may need to hand sew them tighter.

Try this:
Machines Support
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For questions regarding Technical Support, installing, updating, or using your embroidery software, fill out the Software Support Form or call anytime, Monday through Friday 8:30AM – 5:00PM EST, 1-800-631-0183, ext. 775.

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Tr
Machines Support
For questions regarding Machine Support, fill out the Machines Support Form or call anytime, Monday through Friday 8:30AM – 5:00PM EST, 1-800-631-0183, ext. 774.
Technical Support
For questions regarding Technical Support, installing, updating, or using your embroidery software, fill out the Software Support Form or call anytime, Monday through Friday 8:30AM – 5:00PM EST, 1-800-631-0183, ext. 775.

General Inquiries
For general questions, please use the General Inquiries Form.

Request a Machine BrochureFill out the Brochure Request Form to request a brochure for your choice of machine.

Janome Mailing List
Click here to join the Janome Mailing List.
y this:

Try this:
Machines Support
For questions regarding Machine Support, fill out the Machines Support Form or call anytime, Monday through Friday 8:30AM – 5:00PM EST, 1-800-631-0183, ext. 774.
Technical Support
For questions regarding Technical Support, installing, updating, or using your embroidery software, fill out the Software Support Form or call anytime, Monday through Friday 8:30AM – 5:00PM EST, 1-800-631-0183, ext. 775.

General Inquiries
For general questions, please use the General Inquiries Form.

Request a Machine BrochureFill out the Brochure Request Form to request a brochure for your choice of machine.

Janome Mailing List
Click here to join the Janome Mailing List.

Hi there. If you have an acessory kit with your machine, there should be a plain spindle with a smaller bottom on it. There should also be a small hole on the top or back of your machine where your thread goes.. And yes you can thread both strands of thread thru the same areas till the needle.

Hi!
There could be several reasons due to which the thread keeps bunching up underneath. 

It may be due to tangling of upper thread. Remove the thread completely from the machine, use correct size spool cap for the size of the thread spool, re-thread the machine, now remove the bobbin and make sure the bobbin is threaded properly in the shuttle race. Remove any loose threads or lint in the shuttle race.


You could be holding the needle thread too tight. Hold the thread lightly to keep the end from going down into the shuttle.
The needle could be thread incorrectly. Thread the needle eye from the front to the back.
The needle could be bent or improperly inserted. Install a new needle with the flat side of the needle facing the back.

Please rate the solution as FixYa and revert for any clarification.

Thanks
Rylee

found some one to set the timing , and works fine now but still no bobbins available here

Look in your manual to find out where on your machine the dimmer is.

first take off the needle plate and then tur n the handwheel toward you until the hook on the race is at the 1 o'clock postion then slide the bobbin case in you may have to work the handwheel back and forth to get it to slide in

problem fixed...........called in an engineer.

If you take the needleplate off and remove the bobbin case, check yourself whether there is damsge to the bobbin case by visual inspection and lightly rub finger over top and side edge where the thread will pass as it is drawn to make the stitch...............all should all be smooth or trouble ensues.
If there are obvious needle strikes, a short term solution may be to very gently file the burr, but use very fine emery paper very carefully or you may make things worse.
If you are using a waxy or silicon based thread, these deposit a residue inside the bobbin case and tension disks, so use methylated, de-natured spirit on a clean cloth to remove.
Also check the tension disk are clean and clear of lint, as this is the number one issue with looping threads......... try this tutorial for more detail:


Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.


Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle, 
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your 
projects). 

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with 
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to 
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension. 

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean 
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits) 

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned. 

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

 ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all 
back properly.
 FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at 
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is, 
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine 
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover ! 

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with 
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the 
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks ! 
www.bargainbox.com.au 

Lint trapped in the tension dials is the most likely cause
If you are using a standard tension of 4 or 5 and this problem has developed over time, the most likely cause is lint deposited between the tension disks....... 
Raise the presser foot and with a length of scrap fabric, use an action like flossing your teeth to get between the disks......in extreme cases a probe (old needle) may be used very gently to remove thread and lint, but be VERY careful not to scratch the polished surfaces. 
I have also written a tutorial on tension balance which may be of further assistance: 

Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle, 
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your 
projects). 

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with 
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to 
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension. 

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean 
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits) 

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned. 

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

 ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all 
back properly.
 FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at 
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is, 
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine 
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover ! 

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with 
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the 
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !  
www.bargainbox.com.au