20 Most Recent Frigidaire FWS833A Top Load Washer - Page 8 Questions & Answers

did you ever get your problem fixed...cause we are now having the same problem.....will not drain....will not even go into the spin cycle to drain....can you help

the most common failure for that would be the cold water side of the inlet valve. To be sure you would need to access the valve and test the leads to make sure you have 120V at the valve,if you do then replace the valve

hi..the problem may be due to two reasons.
one is your washing machine will not be fully
automatic,it may be semi-automatic.In that case
the water will not stop automatically after reaching
its capacity.other problem may be there will be some
short in the wire in an fully automatic machine which
could have lead to this problem.
check it out.
thank u.. rate me..

You may have a frozen pump .Tilt the machine back so you can look under it and turn each pulley by hand if one isnt turning youll know whts wrong then.Please leave a rating!!

hi!! you have a bad washer timer..good luck

You need a new pressure switch. Dave www.washermd.com

bottem bearing on tranie only comes with the traniee.200$ or so

check you have cold water present by cracking open the fill hose and see if a squirt comes out. (you may have the tap turned off by accident) put on cold fill and listen close to the water intake. you should hear a low humming noise which is the valve energised. if not, probability is that the cold water valve is open circuit

• The drain standpipe is too short.
  To prevent siphoning, the standpipe must be at least 33 inches high for a top load washer or 24 inches high for a tumble action washer. Refer to the installation instructions that came with your washer for more information.
• Drain hose fits too tightly in the standpipe causing siphoning.
  There must be an air gap between the drain hose and the standpipe to prevent siphoning action. The standpipe needs to be at least 1 1/4 inches in diameter.

There could possible be a dead spot in your control module. The module uses a series of gears driven by a timer to send electrical signal to the different components of your washer. If a gear loses a tooth or the timer is running sporadically this could cause the drive motor or capacitors to recieve electrical pulses in the wrong order, leading to the unusual behavior.

I have a Maytag that had that problem. Mine has a plastic tube inside of the machine that connects to a sensor. As the water level rises, some of it goes into this tube creating air pressure on a sensor that signals the machine that the water is at the selected level. The bottom of the tube had come loose and just needed to be put back onto the fitting. I accessed this tube by lifting the top of the machine, and it is in the back. Very easy to get at. I hope this works for you.

RUN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Call an exorcist.

Lololol.... try putting some rubber pads under the legs (Home Depot/ Ace)

Remove the two screws at the bottom corners. Lift the bottom front out and down to release the top clips. Inspect the belt for wear.

If you need further assistance, let me know
Regards,
reg501

one of 2 things are happpening iether hte timer is not sending down the power to operate the pump , or switch is not closing correctly to allow power to the pump

If you have the tub out the seal can be removed by taking the brass ring off the shaft, its on top of the seal, then grab the seal with a pliers or pry it out with a screwdriver etc. The new seal will cost about $40-$50. when you put the new seal in put the rubber part on first, careful to not tear it on the slot cut in the shaft to mount the basket. Next put the old brass ring on top of the new one, use this to push the new ring on, this will help get it over the notch for mounting the basket. When the new ring is ontop of the seal remove the old ring, reassemble, check for leaks.

If you tilt back the washer you can look under it and see if your belt is ok.Also spin the pulleys by hand 1 at a time and see if you can isolate the sound. Please Rate this solution !

simple enough the replacement belt hooks around the tranny pulley and the motor pulley, theres tension pulley spring mounted to the motor assy (spring loaded) simply push it in and wrap the belt around the outside of it so when you release it it adds tension to belt, your done!

Yes! The lid/door WILL UNLOCK after a 45 to 60 second delay, This is for YOUR SAFETY this action prevents you from opening the lid/door to a coasting washbasket. You CAN or WILL be seriously injured if you insert your hand(s) into the machine before the washbasket stops!

I would remove the agitator, checking to see whether the bolt that holds it to the drive shaft is securely tightened. If it is tight I would then check the agitator for a serial number, usually molded directly into the plastic agitator on the inside bottom. Use the internet to determine if the part is the correct agitator for your specific model of machine. I have seen the wrong agitator installed on machines before and it can do a number on clothes, especially sweaters.