20 Most Recent Onkyo TX-SR705 Receiver - Page 8 Questions & Answers

REPLACEMENT WOULD FIX IT FOR SURE

The headphone connector may be shorted.

Look in the back of your Onkyo receiver. If you see a output jack that has “monitor” or “tv monitor” you will be able to pull up a menu screen.

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If battery replacement does not solve the problem, the next step is to to replace the remote control. However, the fault could be with the receiver.

Probably failure of component(s) in the amplifier stages

check its cooling stage

contact service engineer

Request the service manual directly from Onkyo.

Power supply failure

Probable power supply failure

You probably blew the output stage and it is operating in protect mode until you repair it.

Power supply failure

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The Auto Stand-by turns off the receiver if there is no audio or video signal for 20 minutes when set to On. Thus it shouldn't be blocking the receiver from coming on if it is set to Off. When the USB Power Out on Standby (power to a USB device when the receiver is off) or Network Standby (enable network power on requests from the Onkyo app) are enabled, then you get the hybrid standby mode if the Power Management Auto Stand-by is active (On). There is also an HDMI Standby mode for throughput of an HDMI signal. What devices do you have connected to the receiver? Try turning on a video or audio source before you turn on the receiver. The other reasons for the unit not to turn on is the protection circuit being engaged. This can happen from overheating or a loose speaker wire touching another wire or the back of the receiver. Usually if the unit has the protection circuit engaged, the display will indicate Amp Diag Mode. After the diagnostic test, the display will indicate if there is a problem (SP wire). If there is nothing on the display after the diagnostic, the receiver should work properly when it receives an audio signal to send to the speakers. If the unit has been overheating, make sure that there is good ventilation around the receiver. Also clean any dust off the unit. Crutchfield has the manual for the TX-RZ730 on the product page: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-lvaBRQ0O5ib/p_580RZ730/Onkyo-TX-RZ730.html . The current link to the manual is https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20200223150400/Manuals/580/580RZ730.PDF . I hope this helps. If you heard an abnormal sound or smelled smoke, then the unit has internal damage. Similarly, if the problem continues, I'd suspect a wiring fault between the internal power supply and the main board of the receiver. The unit needs service or replacement. Cindy Wells

Does the display show you are in protect mode , or is a light indicating that? The unit automatically switches to standby when the "Hardware" - "Power Management" - "Auto Standby" setting in the Setup menu functions are set. The protective circuit function may have been activated. If this has occurred, "AMP Diag Mode" appears on the display when the unit is turned on again, and the unit enters diagnostic mode. If the results of the diagnosis is that there is no problem, the "AMP Diag Mode" display disappears and you can use the unit normally again. If "CHECK SP WIRE" appears on the display, the speaker cables may be short-circuited. Make sure bare speaker wires are not touching each other or the back panel of the unit, then turn the unit on again. If "NG" is displayed, immediately unplug the power cord from the wall outlet and contact your dealer. • The protective circuit function may have been activated because the temperature of the unit rose abnormally. If this happens, then the power will continue to turn off after you have turned the unit on again. Make sure the unit has plenty of space for ventilation around it, wait for the unit to cool down sufficiently, and then try turning it on again. This is out of your users manual. General suggestions are to remove all speakers and speaker wiring with unit off. Turn on and see if problem has stopped. If not, let unit cool down if warm and try again later. If problem is still there it needs repair shop work. I fht problem went away, shut off power and connect one speaker at a time and testing. Keep adding speakers one at a time with power off and see if a bad speaker or wire set can be located

I don't know the answer but I suggest obtaining and reading the user manuals before your purchase will give you that information. It will then be important to ask the supplier the answer and then the responsibility will be theirs. If the amplifier provides either a 3:1 or 5:1 output there will be provision for a subwoofer - but what type of subwoofer (active or passive) will be hidden in the specs and if you already have a subwoofer, in the specs of that. When buying a new amp and preamp the last thing you want is mismatch or overload conditions that will either produce a less than good sound or perhaps stressing the amp. As a matter of diverse interest, in the old days before subwoofers had been invented the hifi enthusiasts seeking the perfect sound developed the three rack amplifier for domestic use. This type of amp had been used in cinemas for a long time and basically consisted of three amplifiers each built to handle a different frequency spectrum - one amp would drive the tweeters, another the midrange and the third would drive the bass units or woofers. Another thing hifi buffs did was to introduce a ghost speaker driven by a mono amp that derived an input across the left and right channels. My opinion is the best sound still comes from a quality 10 or 20 watt tube amp into quality low power handling speakers with cabinets as big as a sideboard. 300Mw is the average power needed for a good listening experience in the average lounge or bedroom.

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Its fault in the AUX cable that cable which is connected to the speaker system.

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