MTX Thunder 3401 Car Audio Amplifier - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

you need the resisitor, it keeps the machine from basically frying up in case of a power surge.,

The short answer is probably yes... easily, probably no. If you are lucky and only have one or two shorted transistors, then you can cut the leads on those and see if it powers up without blowing a fuse. Also check for shorted diodes and burnt resistors. If all FETs (or most of) the FETs mounted to the heat sink are shorted then it is probably not worth taking the chance putting the time and money into fixing it, just to have it smoke again. Also they are likely in parallel so it is a little more difficult to determine the bad one as they may not all be bad. Measure with an ohmmeter and find the one with the lowest resistance and remove that first and keep going until you believe you have gotten them all. Normally repairs like this are not for someone with little or no experience on amp repair, but if you feel like taking it on, good luck!

READ YOUR OWNER MANUAL, AND IDENTIFY WHERE IS LOCATED. DOWNLOAD FROMwww.fitness.manualsonline.comGod bless you

im guessing both speakers are 4 ohms ..mtx 4ohms and kicker dual 4ohms..now if your amp can go down to 1 ohm wiring the kicker dual coils in parallel (2ohms) and the mtx connected together (4ohms) should leave you with a final impedance between 1 and 2 ohms ...i suggest you use one or get another

Don't give up yet, I'm sure we can find an answer. With car audio, as with any do it yourself project there may be just some small thing you are missing.

the best thing to do is get in touch with amazon,and see what they can do about it,if you try to fix the problem yourself it will invalidate the garantee!

Check all the wireing going to the amp.

if you turn the bass setting in your radio down it will take the bass out, but may take some of the bass out of the subs as well, if this occurs and you still are not satified, you either have to get a car receiver with a non fading subwoofer preout, or you could get bass blockers for all the speakers you dont want the bass in

This amp takes 0 gauge inputs. So I suggest you beef up your power wiring if you haven't. If your running this at 1ohm. You need a second battery, or a H/O alternator. This amp draws some current and if you can't feed it, it will overheat. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/chris_7f7f91eb941fb23f

I have the same sub combo. The problem is the amp is underpowered for the 2 MTX 12s, get a bigger amp and you should be fine.

Power remote and ground. Speaker wire

Use a volt meter to check the power going to the amp. without disconnecting the wires, put the leads on the + and - terminals. you should be getting at least 10V but hopefully closer to 14V.If not, check it is properly grounded and good connection at the battery. Next check the speakers. use an Ohm meter to check the Ohm load. disconnect from the amp and check they are not below 2 ohms (although 4 is better).
plaese rate if this was helpful!

If none of the lights are coming on for the amp then the amp is not getting power and/or ground. Check the connections. Check the fuses. Or the amp is no good.

Your basic crossover is going to have a power (+) and ground (-). Your power wire goes to the battery, and your ground goes to the frame. You will need to hook up your RCA or speaker wires to the input side. Then hook the other two RCA connections to your amp.

yes, the amp can be used fof full range speakers. to use it a s such, the amp's "crossover" switch must be set to "off" (could also be labeled as "full-range" or "defeat").

the amp is 2 channel. 4 channel is for surround sound or to have independent front and rear channels/volumes. this 2 channel amp will support 4 speakers, but you wont be able to balance from front to back- the front and back speakers will be at the same volume all the time if both are hooked up to the amp.

I can't be sure but it sounds like the battery just can't supply enough current while the car is starting, which is not unreasonable as the current load to start the car is quite high. I can only suggest fitting a capacitor as near to the unit's supply as possible or fitting a much uprated battery.(Batteries also lose the capacity to provide high current as they age, how old is the battery?)
I thought the fitting a capacitor was more or less standard in high power installations these days?

if your talkin external fuse use a 32v fuse

Using a multimeter, check the power going to the amplifier for around 12 volts, and check the remote wire for anywhere from 3 to 12 volts. If power is getting to the amplifier and the remote wire is signalling the amp to turn on, check the fuse/s on the amplifier. If the fuse is not blown, have the amplifier checked out by a stereo shop or send it to the manufacturer for warranty repairs. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

Check your remote wire on both the deck and amp... If the remote wire is loose it will turn the amp on and off constantly... Also check to make sure that the fuses on the amp it self are properly seated.

Make sure rca cables are tight at the amp and head unit, if you didn't put the sub in the box yourself or buy a retailer.. check the connections yourself. if it's an old amp it may be burnt up. some head units these days require you to turn the sub on (especialy alpine) really need more info on what you got and how old it is.